Ok so I'm having low compression in cylinder 1 on my stock b16a2 motor in my em1. Figure it's time to build the block with the purpose of having a fun street/daily and having great rod/stroke ratio to be able to rev out until 9.5k (cam choice stops making power at 9k) on special occasions and still be reliable for having it as my daily. Here goes the plan:

82 mm 12.1 compression ratio with buddyclub spec 4 cams. I have seen the buddyclub spec 3+ work very well with compression in the 11's. Are these too much a cam for this motor?

 

The Shodan has a badass B16 build thread. One of the best B16 builds Ive seen (power wise also)

Check it out


https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/project-em1-shodan-goes-na-2458563/

 

After reading that thread again, looks like you posted up in it...

 

Anyone??

 

B20 block + Arp rod bolts + 84.5mm ITR reps

You wont be able to build a faster motor for less money. And you can take it to 8500 if you've got the *****.

 

Not necessarily looking for a "fast" motor. I want a top end screamer (9-9800 rpm) that is reliable (great rod/stroke ratio). I know I can build a b20 vtec and make twice the torque and power but I want to keep the b16 reliability at high rpm without having to spend $1,000 or more in machine work or forged parts to prepare the motor to do so. That's why I wanted to do the 82 mm ctr piston/arp rod bolt idea. I built a 81.50 mm ls/vtec that I was happy with but scared to take it past 8500. This won't be a track/drag car and I do not condone in driving fast in the streets. Just want a fun, reliable rev happy motor. Buddyclub spec 4 cams seem to be the right choice but I don't want to run into issues because of their dome height and how aggressive the lobes on the cams are

 

A properly built B20 is just as reliable as a B16 at higher rpm. If you don't condone fast driving and its not a race motor then why rev it past 9k? You're contradicting yourself.

 

Because I'm not looking to make a certain power number or won't be racing the car. Just want a fun daily with some pep in it without having to spend 2-3k

 

I know what you mean..you want the power, and high revvingness to use at your choosing. Basically you rather have it and use it once a every blue moon, rather not having it at all.

 

You got it lol

 

Things dont last long above 9k, even on a B16. And unless you have some big cams, you wont be making power either.

 

^ truth. But if I were going to build a stout B16 it would be a pretty simple build with CTR pistons, Skunk pro1's, ITR intake manifold and throttle body, and a toda replica header.

 

Ctr pistons would be really nice pump in compression, but they are heavy compared to others, and flame travel..uh.. And if hes doing 9k, id get your rotating assembly balanced, and change your intake manifold as b16 manifold falls around 7.5-8k. And you will be a bitching set of valve springs since stock ones will have your pistons kissing the valves like no tomorrow,? Would risk it lol. OP, if you want 9k, get really good valve springs, a good cam set up, high comp pistons, like 10.5-11.0 range, eagle rods, balanced assembly, and type r manifold. Thats a good starting point.

 

I thank you guys a lot for the advice thus far. Those last two post pretty much guided me into a better thought process about this whole idea.

 

Yea man! No problem. Might as well make a build thread So more people can chime in.

 

I just realized the responce I typed to your PM didnt send. I'll write everything up again.
Edit: I typed this in response to you yesterday, I'll just elaborate here so others can comment on what I say

"Ok let's say I decide b20 block. Have to get aftermarket Itr replica spec pistons, get rods shotpeened, arp rod bolts, get the big end of the rod honed after stud install, balance the rotating assembly, block girdle etc...rather just bore the b16 block, high comp pistons arp rod bolts/head studs call it a day, as far as the block. What's your thought on it? I am on a budget here or else I would just go boost"

My responcse was like this:
You need to keep it simple. There is A LOT of extra stuff in that list that's not all necessary.
*Shot-peening rods- IMO not worth the time or money
*Balancing the rotating assembly- Again not necessary, especially if this isn't a race motor and you don't plan on running it hard
*Block girdle-One more time, not needed. I have actually seen people run into more problems from a girdle install than not running it at all.

That leaves you with buying pistons, rod bolts and getting machine work done. YCP ITR pistons are $190, way less than a set of forged. And the rest of the machine work you need done anyways if you did a B16 anyways.
My main point is this. IF you want a DD motor that is reliable and still makes good power, go for displacement. You will make more USABLE power at less RPM which will keep the reliability up. Revving over 9k as stated breaks things. And for a DD is useless IMO. BC4 cams are BIG cams. A lot of guys run those on BIG 1.8 motors and 2L builds with at least 11:1 CR. On a B16 they would be a waste. Even BC3's are a decent sized cam on a B16. There's jot not enough displacement and you can't make up enough with compression on pump gas to utilize them properly. BC3's on a B20 w/ ITR pistons would be a killer street setup and Poop on a B16 in all aspects.
Just food for thought.

 

^ Great post!

Another option:
Stock block B20Z (high comp)
Untouched (except for arp rod bolts)
B16/GSR head (just springs)
GSR or ITR/CTR cams
P30IM
GOOD header

That should get you at least 200whp, and you can rev it to 8000, maybe 8500. And, torque is fun.

 

Now the issue of sourcing a b20 block in my town of Tampa, fl. Only finishing bare blocks with just mains or ls so far

 

Man you had such a beautiful setup with your previous LSV in that hatch in your last build.. looking fwd. to see what you put together this time.. My LSV with the BC3+ cams ..has been running well for 12k miles now.

 

What all do you need? If you come up with a B20 block I have a spare rotating assembly in my garage.

 

Also not sure if you already have the Tampa Honda/Acura parts page on your FB, but there are some good deals there at times..It can be another source for parts and more last minute.

 

Check craigslist and junkyards. You shouldnt spend more than 400 for a longblock. And that is still $120 more than I paid! It is best to buy a complete motor with as many accessories as possible. Then you can use them, if they are better that what you currently have, or sell them. And then sell the head, IM, TB, and anything else that it comes with that you dont need. In the end, you can end up with a B20 short block for well under $200.

 

Overwhelming show of appreciation guys, it's not everyday someone is willing to help in this sense as bad as that may sound.

tamparican - this build will be a little more wild bro. Awesome to see the Ls/v reliable and making ya happy