Hi guys,
I have a crx si with an d16a6. I alreafy have the turbo kit. But i'm still looking around for the pistons and rods. Do you have any suggestions?

 

Yup.



http://realstreetperformance.com/sto...d16y8-118.html

What turbo kit are you running? Pictures?

 

A lot of people run vitara pistons with a lot of success with the d series motors. Def nice on a budget also and very reliable. As far as rods you can do stock rods IMO. Im a firm believer of stock bottom ends with new gaskets/head studs/water pump along with a good tune. My motto "Dont fix it if it aint broke". My first motor I had built cracked a sleeve on the dyno and I replaced it with a stock ZC motor with head studs and new gaskets and water pump. Put out around 280hp with a garrett gt28 tuned on Neptune by evans tuning in PA.

 

if you go d turbo, it's worth going with vtec head.

 

OP - you -MUST- tell us what your power goals are or any advice we give is really irrelevant!



Those have to go hand in hand. A less than perfect tune can twist a stock D-series rod in no time flat. Rule of thumb is about 240hp on stock D-series rods before things can get sketchy.
Typically the high hp Vitara piston setups are using aftermarket rods or B16 rods. B16 rods drops the compression really low so it makes for a cheap fun setup that you don't need meticulous tuning on.

 

Those have to go hand in hand. A less than perfect tune can twist a stock D-series rod in no time flat. Rule of thumb is about 240hp on stock D-series rods before things can get sketchy.
Typically the high hp Vitara piston setups are using aftermarket rods or B16 rods. B16 rods drops the compression really low so it makes for a cheap fun setup that you don't need meticulous tuning on.[/QUOTE]

Sorry but you cant really put a hp number on safe or not safe. Ive seen and know many people have run close to 400hp on stock bottom ends and last for quite a long time. And no matter if you have stock rods and pistons or aftermarket ones a **** tune is a **** tune and going to throw a rod/piston regardless. Im not here to argue or jack this guys thread but to me there is no sense in building a motor that isn't broke. Just my .02cents. This is my opinion bc regardless of turbo kit he gets, if the motor blows then the kit itself is going to be fine, so build the motor then and save your money now and put the money you were going to build the motor with into a better turbo kit or money to put some work into the head.

 

https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/epic-tunings-400hp-d16z6-powered-real-time-4wd-ef-hatch-2104408/ Here is my point exactly...

 

 

Actually, I can put a number on it. Rods are the weak link to these motors. It's engineering. A bad tune puts the force of combustion on the rotating assembly at the wrong time and something breaks. Usually rods and ring lands see their way into the afterlife on these motors. They weren't designed for boost.

 

You cant put numbers on it when so many people have had such success on it. This doesnt need to be discussed any further this thread isnt about arguing, its all opinions and I just gave my .02cents and the guy who made this thread can go whichever way he chooses, but i think everyone has a right to state what they think is right. Its all about learning.

 

You're talking about the same portion of people that have success with eBay turbo kits. It's a minority. It has been done. We know that but most of us will not tell someone to do it just because it has been done.

I would go with the vitara and stay safe or go full forged internals and get close to the Hp stock sleeves are rated for. That's basically what I've done and I don't see any reason it won't work for you.

 

First off we dont know this guys horsepower goals. Secondly regardless of stock block or built block detonation is detonation and will eventually cause a motor to throw a rod or crack a piston. So the only difference is that the built block will hold up longer to the torture. I just dont know why everyone wants to be so closed minded thats all im saying. If your going to do it right the first time and build the block why would you have a shitty tune? If your going to have a good tune then he can budget lower and use the money elsewhere and still be safe.
Cost of building block:
Rods/pistons $779.00 (Wiseco/Eagle)
Head studs $119.00 (ARP)
Bearings $99.00
Top End Gasket kit $163.00
Machine Shop $300 give or take not sure
Total $1460 give or take some

If you have the money def go for it and build the hell out of the motor it wont hurt. But IMO like stated before if its not broke dont fix it. Plus you could do a lot with $1500 in other areas that will be beneficial.

 

Detonation is something that will blow blocks to pieces. But the heat will melt factory pistons. Hell, the heat will melt good NA pistons. The forged pistons are thicker and hold up because they are made of better materials. If he wants to make 400 whp on a stock D-series, go for it. It will melt to pieces. I've seen forged internals melt because a couple degrees of timing. Shoot, the guy I bought my turbo from used it for about 2 hours before his professional tune melted 3 of his pistons.

 

YESSSSS everything you are talking about are all products of garbage tunes thank you for proving my point!!!

 

They weren't garbage tunes. They were very good very well done dyno tunes. But a little bit of creep here or something small can completely melt something that isn't made to handle it. I'd rather not risk my motor because I clicked 89 instead of 93 once.

 

Your "point" is so invalid and remarkably wrong that it amazes me.
If your point was correct, then you could easily PROVE the converse. Tell me why aftermarket rods exist for ANY motor. Seeing how you feel stock rods are so mighty and strong, it must be a giant sham that anyone would even manufacture aftermarket versions.

I'm going to guess that this rod is A-Ok and still good to use in your opinion.
Just like new right?

 

http://www.modularfords.com/threads/...0-or-5-1/page2 I have no idea why aftermarket rods would bend either? I love how you are so passionate about building motors. I dont see why this is still such a huge discussion? I like stock motors and you like building yours! Im very happy with a reliable daily driver with 300+hp on an amazing tune. Im not going to hate on you for building a motor. Ive never had a problem before running stock motors. Had two turbo hondas and I have an evo8 with 390hp on stock bottom end and stock turbo and its been like that for almost 3 1/2 years.

 

Aside from the OP probably not caring about this thread, I think the arguing is done.

Just one last point, you are pretty much wrong. That's all. You can say the bottom end will handle whatever power and PSI you want, but it will only last so long and no tune is perfect for all conditions. Lastly, I've seen EVO8s put down 800 on the stock bottom end. That's also completely different than a Honda Motor. One of them was built for boost from the factory, the other was not.

Read this thread if you want to learn more on the stock blocks and how they handle boost.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/honda-techs-highest-horsepower-stock-block-thread-%2Aofficial%2A-2036623/

300 HP on a stock D-series requires the best tuning and possibly race gas. Pretty sure 200 is the safe limit for the guy piecing together a DIY kit.