Clutch slipping
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Honda-Tech Member
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Clutch slipping
So I'm running 12 lbs of boost on my 97 b18 swap. When I'm pulling into boost it feels like its slipping. What should I do? But a new stage 2 clutch in (which I have seen a lot of post about clutches and stages) or do I need the whole kit including flywheel?
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 142
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
Re: Help plz
What feels like its slipping? The clutch? You can just upgrade your clutch and pressure plate but you'll wanna get the flywheel resurfaced. I don't run lightweights I find they fall out of boost between shifts way to fast.
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Joined: Mar 2011
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Re: Help plz
I agree about weight. Stay with the stock weight flywheel.
You need a stage 2 clutch kit if you drive on the streets. Don't buy a pucked disc unless it is sprung, actually, puck discs are meant for strip racing and more like an on/off switch. I like ACT clutch discs. There is also Fidanza and a few others. Stay away from cheap eBay kits or anything generic. They rip up real easy. Also, make sure you break-in the new clutch for 50 miles before speed shifting or hard launching. Also, resurface the flywheel for about $12 at a transmission shop.
You need a stage 2 clutch kit if you drive on the streets. Don't buy a pucked disc unless it is sprung, actually, puck discs are meant for strip racing and more like an on/off switch. I like ACT clutch discs. There is also Fidanza and a few others. Stay away from cheap eBay kits or anything generic. They rip up real easy. Also, make sure you break-in the new clutch for 50 miles before speed shifting or hard launching. Also, resurface the flywheel for about $12 at a transmission shop.
B*a*n*n*e*d
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 6,420
Likes: 7
From: Charlottesville, VA, USA
Re: Help plz
The puck/full-faced isn't what makes it an "on/off" clutch, hub springs are.
50 miles is no where near enough time for break-in - most clutches require a bare minimum of 250-500 miles.
I JUST covered this in another thread. Figure out your motor's baseline torque (Wikipedia will tell you), figure out how much torque you're making now (a dyno will tell you this), and get the proper clutch to suit your torque load.
50 miles is no where near enough time for break-in - most clutches require a bare minimum of 250-500 miles.
I JUST covered this in another thread. Figure out your motor's baseline torque (Wikipedia will tell you), figure out how much torque you're making now (a dyno will tell you this), and get the proper clutch to suit your torque load.
If you loved me, you'd all sell me your magic cards to me today
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,700
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From: Atlantic Ocean Florida
Re: Help plz
The puck/full-faced isn't what makes it an "on/off" clutch, hub springs are.
50 miles is no where near enough time for break-in - most clutches require a bare minimum of 250-500 miles.
I JUST covered this in another thread. Figure out your motor's baseline torque (Wikipedia will tell you), figure out how much torque you're making now (a dyno will tell you this), and get the proper clutch to suit your torque load.
50 miles is no where near enough time for break-in - most clutches require a bare minimum of 250-500 miles.
I JUST covered this in another thread. Figure out your motor's baseline torque (Wikipedia will tell you), figure out how much torque you're making now (a dyno will tell you this), and get the proper clutch to suit your torque load.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 258
Likes: 0
Re: Help plz
The puck/full-faced isn't what makes it an "on/off" clutch, hub springs are.
50 miles is no where near enough time for break-in - most clutches require a bare minimum of 250-500 miles.
I JUST covered this in another thread. Figure out your motor's baseline torque (Wikipedia will tell you), figure out how much torque you're making now (a dyno will tell you this), and get the proper clutch to suit your torque load.
50 miles is no where near enough time for break-in - most clutches require a bare minimum of 250-500 miles.
I JUST covered this in another thread. Figure out your motor's baseline torque (Wikipedia will tell you), figure out how much torque you're making now (a dyno will tell you this), and get the proper clutch to suit your torque load.
I didn't know that about the sprung-puck designs. I always thought since stage 3 is usually 6-puck-sprung, it was less intense... whereas a stage 4 _4-puck-unsprung was on/off switch for drag.
My racecar is NA but the transmission, block, head, and suspension is setup for future turbo. I chose a ACT stage 2 disc (more expensive than stage 3 puck) because I also drive on the streets a lot. It's a street legal car with AC and cruise and a lot of HP so I know a stage 3 clutch would be really uncomfortable in stop and go daily traffic, or speed bumps and railroad crossings.
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