I have a mildly built GSR with cams, valve train, headwork, intake, etc. running on a PLM TA (Toda rep) header with a 3" flange welded on and full 3" straight piping all the way back to stock exhaust outlet location at bumper. I dyno'd around 210 hp to the wheels and the straight exhaust is obviously just rediculous loud.

I added a Vibrant ultra-quiet resonator at the stock cat location and a OBX (waste of money) resonator further back just before the rear arms.

Still have no muffler and the exhaust is much quieter but hits a certain note around 3500 rpm that is just nuts. Not so much volumn but just raspy.

I was looking into mufflers that would fit with the 3" pipe since it takes up a lot of space and a full size or off-set muffler just won't fit back there. Vibrant street performer (glass pack style) or Flowmaster Delta 40 (chambered style) will fit size wise, I was just looking for some input or experience with how it will sound.

Again, volumn isn't so much the issue as the raspy note around 3500 rpm.

Thanks for any input!

 

thats the resonators take it out and even something like a es oval will be fine, i usually just run a decent quality muffler and straight pipe

 

You're saying REMOVE resonators to get rid of rasp? Enlighten me.

OP are you running a cat or test-pipe?

On a 3" you will want 2 medium sized (12-14") resonators or 1 big (24-28") resonator and a nice muffler to combat the raspy sound. Also adding a high flow cat will resonate the raspy note as well. My buddy ran 3" pipe, 24" magnaflow res w/ a high flow magnaflow cat, and vibrant stealth muffler and it sounded great on his K series. Wasn't raspy at all. It still have a strong deep note however.

Please dont remove resonators if you want to get rid of raspy sounds. Even just throwing a muffler on the end of your setup will help with the rasp.
Straight-pipes=Poop. No muffler=Poop.

 

It's full 3" from flange welded on header all the way back. No cat etc.

I'm absolutely not removing either resonator I already put in.

For the muffler, any experience with glass pack style like the Vibrant, or chambered like the Flowmaster?

Not sure the glass pack style straight through will be enough based on the change with the Vibrant UQ resonator - however location and size will be different of course.

 

1. Flowmaster mufflers don't belong on Hondas
2. You don't want a chambered muffler, they will obstruct HP. A straight through resonated muffler is what you want.

The Vibrant stealth muffler is a great muffler. The ES tuning oval is ok as well. If you want something a little different that sounds good look into a twin loop.

What I'm doing with the exhaust on my car to keep rasp and noise down and still keep the best performance possible is as follows

Magnaflow Ultra-flow cat off the header
2.5" pipe w/ 2-12" vibrant resonators for the mid-pipe
and for the axle back it will start 2.5" and have a reducer just before it attached to the muffler making it 2.25"
Then I have an old school Greddy SP muffler (2.25 inlet) to finish it off.

This is my commuter so I want it quiet so I can hear the radio and keep the cops off my ***.

 

i have used both of those resonators and both gave me a rasp, i am not saying resonators give you a rasp just those 2. and this was on a apexi ws1. i removed both and it was a little louder and rasp was gone.

 

Then they were broken/the guts were falling out

 

the ones i have used were new oh well to each there own

 

I'm just stating I have never heard a resonator make more rasp or when removed make rasp disappear. Rasp comes from the exhaust gases bouncing/resonating off the solid pipe...a resonator dampens the bounce per se and makes it go away.

 

gsr's do tend to have a rasp don't know why but even my gsr on my hatch I have a yonaka cat back with 2.5" cat and rmf narrow replica and I get a rasp right around 3000-3500rpm. I had the same exhaust setup on my b18b and my b20 before the gsr and never had a rasp.
read somewhere on h-t that it has to do with the intake manifold or the way the runners are angled in the head.

 

^^^Not to thread jack but what do you think of that yonaka system? I was considering it as compared to spending 700 on the WS2 or building my own system. It has a baffled/chambered muffler correct?

 

For the price you pay its not bad. The huge tip on my hatch took some getting used to I ended up painting The axle back flat black not so noticeable or huge atleast to me anymore.i think under a coupe would look a lot better.it is a straight thru offset inside(pipe inside canister sits at a angle from front to back).ive had mine for 2yrs now and only complaint is that its not a tru 2.5" system.

might be selling it soon to get a 3" with a VT muffler or turbo muffler though.

 

Looked into a few of those options.

ES oval is backordered and only 2.5"

Rr-R Exmag is supposed to be nice but discontinued.

Twin loops look interesting but not many companies seem to make them. I read the OBX twin loops on ebay aren't very good - internal diameter is smaller than inlet / tip reducing power etc, etc.

Apexi WS2 is an option at 80mm, however, almost $300 just for the muffler itself.

Other than that the Vibrant Streetpower oval center-center seems to be the most reasonable. Just concerned with the over all sound deadening of it. The 3000-3500 rpm rasp EpHatchy mentioned is exactly what I'm talking about.

 

A couple factors i dont think were mentioned could be leaks in the exhaust system, bad air fuel ratio at that rpm, or mechanical vibration.

The vibrant stealth muffler is great, I used a 3" one for years and got lots of compliments on the sound. Now i have a long *** 8" diameter generic round muffler from jegs with a very slight turn down added on the end and it sounds the best to me lol

 

Just found out about this line of mufflers and wanted to throw it on here. Check out the megan racing "OE" spec mufflers. The RS-OE, M-OE and M-VO are pretty good looking setups.

 

Every WSII I've ever heard sounded like a bunch of bees in an old school Folgers can before they became plastic, which is buzzy and annoying.

The OBX resonator is likely to blame because my car with just a Vibrant Ultra Quiet after the header and a 5" OD Vibrant bottle resonator after the shift linkage on a 3" exhaust was very clean sounding. No rasp, no buzz, no annoying drone, just too loud cruising with a 4.785 final drive. So I made it go over the axle and hacked up the Spoon N1 axleback I had to bring it out to the back bumper. IMO any straight through muffler at that point would have been just fine for taking out decibel levels.

 

I run a Thermal R&D with a 18" vibrant resonator on a 1.8L and it isn't all that loud.

 

 

Ok let's see who's advice helps then.... Btw you should google obx resonators....

 

Best resonator on the market is the zz performance 3 chamber. Google that. It will make anything purr like a kitten

 

My 02 on what Ive used

After going thru a few resonators myself, I will say, the more holes it has means the quieter it will be.
I have gone the magnaflow route with both muffler and res and I have now switched to dual vibrant resonators (01951? i cant remember the PN) and I still have the Magnaflow muffler.
The vibrant cuts the noise better then magnaflow and also my magnaflow muffler is starting to rust (to which magnaflow will not warranty it, but thats another story) but I am looking to swap that out for a Vibrant stealth muffler shortly. Vibrant has more holes internally which dampens the rasp and noise.

This is all on a 3" btw.

heres a great price on a piping kit
http://www.vrsexhaust.com/TUBING_KIT.../honda_tk.html



EDIT: I have a chambered straight thru muffler which amplified the rasp so loud that my car sounded like a 125cc dirt bike, which immediately got cut off after 5 minutes and now sitting in my garage. As you can see, its brand new

 

Op you could look into the tsudo sp2 style muffler. Its offered in 2.5 and 3. EBay and speed-element.com have them for pretty good price. This what I'll be using to replace my greddy evo2 muffler. I had tsudo n1 exhaust on my 95 civic coupe years back and had no rasp. It had a deep tone for a n1 coffee can so the sp2 should be nice sounding

 

Most likely cause of rasp tends to be from the intake you have and the resonance it causes. I went to a OEM type r intake and box. All rasp was gone.

 

buddy club spec 2.....not as bad as ppl say it is if you have a CAT