Hey everyone,

Presently i am happy with my G23 running low boost even with forged internals.

I love the bottom end torgue and i want more of it.

So i did some calculator work and came up with this, help me out show me my mistakes please.

Block - H22 - Want to bore to 90mm with MID darton
Head - H22 - Type R cams, or suggest a set?
Crank - F23 - 97mm stroke
Rods - F23 - Crower - 141mm
Pistons - Customs - Dome -20, Comp Heigh - 29.5, Bore 90
Gasket Cometic - 0.031 H22
ARP bolts top and bottom

So on the calculator this is the numbers i get:

Comp: 8.54:1
A/R: 1.45:1
Piston to deck: 0.019"
Displacement: 2468cc

Power goal - 450-500 hp

My question:

Does it make sense? Am i doing something wrong?
What kind of reliability i can expect at 18-21 psi of boost?
What other parts i need?
Or Screw stroke build a normal h22 with forged internals.

Regards

 

go higher on the compression.

 

Kyden thanks for the reply.

I live in a country where we get only 90RON fuel no race gas no E85. So if i go higher on the comp i wont be able to run so much boost.

I have to lower the comp to successfully run that much boost on local pump gas.

Regards

 

Wow are you sure its 90 RON not AKI?Ouch!
I would consider water injection.
This setup is beast tho.

 

H22 must be a 97-01 with 55mm mains to swap the F23 crank in

Sounds good. Pistons will need to be custom or H22 piston be sticking out like 40k.

Make sure to balance everything from flywheel bolt to key way...

You want a turbo such as 6262 or 6266... H motor will flow enough to require a T4 flange not a T3.

Only issue I see is 90mm... That is the most you can go to bore it. No rebuild left over, which I wouldn't do. Also 90mm is only for NA because the walls will be super thin. I have done std bores... 87mm.

 

I would personally run higher compression and meth injection for higher boost levels. Remember psi means nothing and a higher compression engine will be more efficient and will require less boost pressure to reach your goals. If running the prwcision I would go with the 6266 because the larger exhaust whee will help that motor breathe

 

Unless its a long rod for a circuit. A 6266 is pretty large for such low octane fuel, he wouldn't even be close to an efficiency range for such a large turbo. I'd head for a size smaller, so that its at least responsive. What country are you in , please?

 

Hey everyone:

Balor - trust me our fuel is crap - Am in africa - Indian Ocean - Mauritius

ESP - Sir good point on the bore, but I though the MID would give me a chance if somethings goes wrong i pop out the sleve and change it or am i Dreaming?

Turbo LS :

Sir, the only reason i want to build this engine and dump the comp is to get more boost in.... do u think can be done on my present setup - given details below.

Shodon : The big man, turbo in question would be the GT3782

My present setup is

Storke: 97mm
Bore: 86.50 - K20 -6cc arais pistons
Rod: 141mm - Race Eng F23 (the weakest link of my build)
Stock sleves

Comp: 9.8:1 running 7-10 psi of boost happily.

The only reason why i want to build a bigger engine and drop the comp is to get more boost in. Do you think i should retain this engine? maybe change the rods get stronger ones and meth and get more boost in?

Rest of the setup is: AFI bottom mount twin scroll, t3, GT3782 turbo, Precision 650 FMIC, 780 precision injectors and BMC intake mani. Stock gearbox (U2Q7) and Stock LSD.

Regards

 

you are satisfied with shorter gearing? no desire to go longer?

 

Hey bro H24_EG

I would love to have had a 6 speed in the car but i know that cant happen.

Am hoping to look into a longer 5th gear from the accord machined to fit the H box.

Should increase the top speed a little

regards

 

Raise compression a bit and have a good tuner slowly tune it up to PSI level.


Id suggest something around a GTX3582R ... I just install one of these on a fully built h22 and has really good VE...

I would also suggest Coil on plug with meth injection to get the boost up.

90mm bore is overkill in my opinion but yes if you get the replaceable sleeves and don't distort the block the machine shop can pull and replace sleeves individually.

You can also save time and money and not go with such a stroker, stay closer to stock settings with forged internals and good after market cams. I have hit 20PSI boost on a GT28 turbo H22 89 Octane here before... But again remember boost isn't everything. Its the tune and turbo size that will really matter when the boost kicks in.

 

90mm just a waste of money since you can't re bore it again. Most manufactures state 90mm NA only. The walls just are a lot thinner. Not worth the added bit of CC's

Coil on plug wont hurt and meth injection is a smart with pump and would advise over 500 hp. Stock dizzys with a new coil and igniter being (OEM, not aftermarket) should be good up to 550-600hp range.

The F23/F20B rods are thinner width then the H's and smaller journal? Just things to think about. Race Eng Rods I have heard are decent. How they rate to something like Crower, I dont know. It seems like they would be an Eagle equal. However since issue be rods I would invest in a good set such as Crower shelf rod....

 

Hey,

On my present setup i see boost at around 3500-4000rpm. Once in its smooth riding rest of the way.

So what is the limitation of eagle rods and stock sleves? in your opinion? as in terms of power and boost on this setup.

Thanks alot for all the advice.

Regards

 

Race eng rods F23 should be fine for your power goals 500 hp

Stock sleeves can't run forged pistons except mahle gold series. Stock cylinder FRM probably limits under 600 but a decent forged piston will limit you before the FRM clylinder will.

 

Thanks sir,

That is great news.

Am running the F23 block presently it has Steel sleves not FRM and also running a Arais K20 pistons which are forged and for boost. so I hope i should be ok on that front?

Kind Regards