I have a 1998 Honda Civic DX. The CEL has been on and I brought it to Auto Zone to have it scanned. It was throwing codes P1298 & P0501. The speedometer will work and not work when it wants. The car runs absolutely fine when in drive and idling. I've been on this light now for about 3 weeks and I've read many threads on this. I have changed the VSS, both o2 sensors, taped the wiring next to the intake manifold, changed fuse 15. The guy said there is 2 sensors on some vehicles, as in a input and output sensor. I was wondering if my car would have another speed sensor somewhere that needs to be changed. I really am stuck on this and not sure what else to do. Please help.

 

P1298 = Electric load detector (ELD) circuit high input

http://www.civicforums.com/forums/at...id=31309&stc=1

http://www.justanswer.com/honda/1ehv...ck-engine.html

 

Did you clear the codes after changing out the parts you did?

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/how-pull-cel-d4-srs-abs-codes-code-lists-1901557/

 

I read to replace the eld before, but when I was searching for a ELD for 98 Civic, I couldn't find one. It looks like you have to buy the whole fuse box, correct?

 

https://www.google.com/#q=honda+eld+part&tbm=shop

Yea, looks like you have to, not a separate part...

 

Which one are you looking at on here? Could you give me a direct URL link to it.

 

I just threw into google honda ELD. However, ebay had a few for a 1998 Honda...

http://www.ebay.com/sch/Parts-Access...98&Brand=Honda

 

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw...ox&_sacat=6028

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1996-1997-1998-1999-2000-Honda-Civic-Engine-Comp-Fuse-Box-Panel-/111191525703?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19e3880947&vxp=mtr
Would this work? I don't need the whole fuse box, I just need the ELD, but no one sells the ELD separate from the box for my year.

 

Before you do anything else, check whether 7.5A dash fuse 15 is blown by voltage testing it. If so, click the fuse 15 TSB in my signature.

 

I did check both and replaced both of those already. I was thinking of replacing the ELD but I couldn't find the ELD separate from the fuse box for my year. I'm going to look at junk yards around my location first before buying the whole fuse box offline.

 

If fuse 15 blows immediately, you won't know unless you voltage test it. Click the Fuses link in my signature.

When you turn the key from OFF to ON(II) (engine off), does the charging system warning light (battery symbol) in the cluster turn on and stay on?

 

yes it turns and stays on.

 

If you reset the ECU (remove Back Up fuse for 3 minutes or more), do both CEL codes return?

Does your car have an auto transmission? Is the car bone stock?

Do you have a multimeter?

 

Can you reset the ECU by disconnecting the negative ground to the battery? No I do not have a multimeter. After everything I described I did up top, I disconnected the negative ground to the battery and the codes are still showing.

 

How long did you disconnect the battery? I edited my post above to tell you how to reset the ECU. I also posted other questions.

You can buy a multimeter for about $4 from Harbor Freight Tools. Otherwise, you are stuck replacing parts at random. A multimeter allows you to diagnose electrical problems.

 

The car is completely stock besides I put a new distributor cap, rotor, and spark plug wires, so like basic tune up. Its automatic, and then I'll have to get one of them. Every time that I would d/c (disconnect) the battery it would be for at least 5+ minutes at a time. So is the only way to reset the ECU by unplug the back fuse under the hood?

http://www.harborfreight.com/7-funct...ter-92020.html
Would this work or do I need some high end one?

 

Your method is fine to reset the ECU. The method I mentioned may be a little easier as it only requires removal of a fuse.

When you get a digital multimeter, start with these tests:

 

That will work fine. I have a couple because they're so cheap.

 

Alright, I'm not that electrical inclined but I will pick up one tomorrow and try to follow these steps and see what I can come up with. I'll report if I need help or the outcome. Thanks.

 

Read the steps in the diagram and post any questions that come up.

 

"check the vehicle speed with the scan tool." What scan tool would this be and how would I do it?

 

Reset the ECU. If P0501 is thrown after turning key to ON(II) or running the engine, then proceed by assuming answer is NO.

 

can you show or explain where I would put the multimeter to see the voltage.

 

All voltage tests will be done with the multimeter dial set at the DCV 20 position.

The black wire meter probe is inserted into the bottom hole and the red wire meter probe is inserted into the middle hole.

I'll give more details when you have the multimeter and are ready to do the tests.