How much compression should a cold engine generate?
Well thats basically the question in askin ha.
I am going to pull the engine out of my Acura and replace it. I'm going to test compression on another b18. But it'll be out of the car because I don't wanna install it and it not work. So what's the right number to have with a cold engine?
Thanks
I am going to pull the engine out of my Acura and replace it. I'm going to test compression on another b18. But it'll be out of the car because I don't wanna install it and it not work. So what's the right number to have with a cold engine?
Thanks
As long as it is not real low, [not below 140psi] it is more important that all four are about the same, [no more then 28psi diff.], a wet test should be done also.
A leak down test will tell you more. 94
A leak down test will tell you more. 94
So even during a cold test they psi should not be before 140?
And by wet you mean dropping oil into the cylinder right?
Last time I did this. My tester got full of oil.
And by wet you mean dropping oil into the cylinder right?
Last time I did this. My tester got full of oil.
variance will be higher cold and numbers are lower. one of my type r's that had 260psi hot read about 220psi cold. i got in the habit of rigging up starters to jdm engines before i installed them to double check compression and make sure it was the same as the importer stated.
I usually just slap the transmission on, put 2. Bolts to mate it and put the starter on to turn the engine over.
I think with the right amount of washers on the starter/block surface, you can rig the starter to the flywheel with no trans.
But back to your type r. So basically about 40 psi lower while cold than when hot?
I think with the right amount of washers on the starter/block surface, you can rig the starter to the flywheel with no trans.
But back to your type r. So basically about 40 psi lower while cold than when hot?
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Okay.
I started up my engine that was knocking. Let it warm up. And did a compression test.
I had the same 90-95 psi of compression through all 4 cylinders.
This engine has new piston rings which I installed and I also rehoned the walls myself(700 miles on everything)
Should I just change the bearings And leave the pistons alone?
It is the compression so low that I should just ditch the engine?
I started up my engine that was knocking. Let it warm up. And did a compression test.
I had the same 90-95 psi of compression through all 4 cylinders.
This engine has new piston rings which I installed and I also rehoned the walls myself(700 miles on everything)
Should I just change the bearings And leave the pistons alone?
It is the compression so low that I should just ditch the engine?
I am backs other results!
I believe they are good. Just want some re assurance.
Tested engine compression.
Cyl 1-3 got 130 psi
Cyl 4 got 100
Did valve lash adjustment
Cyl 1-3 got 150 psi
Cup 4 got 120 psi.
Such a difference. But the car will run right?
I put the compression tester and cyl4 and removed the Gauge and plugged an air compressor hose and I held cyl 4 at tdc
And couldn't hear much air escaping?!?
But insight on those psi numbers please. And thanks n
I believe they are good. Just want some re assurance.
Tested engine compression.
Cyl 1-3 got 130 psi
Cyl 4 got 100
Did valve lash adjustment
Cyl 1-3 got 150 psi
Cup 4 got 120 psi.
Such a difference. But the car will run right?
I put the compression tester and cyl4 and removed the Gauge and plugged an air compressor hose and I held cyl 4 at tdc
And couldn't hear much air escaping?!?
But insight on those psi numbers please. And thanks n
I'll remove the pan today.
And these numbers are on a cold engine. They go up once installed and warmed up right?
If I put cyl 4(low comp cup) at TDc with the valves closed and I put compressed air in it. I should be able to hear that leak right
And these numbers are on a cold engine. They go up once installed and warmed up right?
If I put cyl 4(low comp cup) at TDc with the valves closed and I put compressed air in it. I should be able to hear that leak right
If you spin it by hand, can you hear any slop/clunk in that cylinder?
A spun/worn bearing will change your comp on that cylinder even if the rings are good.
A spun/worn bearing will change your comp on that cylinder even if the rings are good.
When I turn the engine over. It turns over easily! No clunks or noises
Haven't pulled the pan off, been burried in hw!
I can check for leaks by having the piston at tdc and valves closed and blow I blowing compressed air into the engine with the compression tester hose right?
Haven't pulled the pan off, been burried in hw!
I can check for leaks by having the piston at tdc and valves closed and blow I blowing compressed air into the engine with the compression tester hose right?
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