Hi, I have a 1995 honda accord 2.2L non-vtech 5speed. Whenever I press to horn button I hear a click from the relay behind the radio. I've tried replacing the relay with 3 different junkyard ones (since new ones are 30$) and still no luck. If I jump a wire across the plug where the relay goes the horn DOES sound, signifying a bad relay SHOULD be the problem, right? Could there be a bad ground or worn wire in the steering wheel assembly somewhere?

 

Based on what you described, it is not the relay or horn wire coming from the steering wheel. Most likely, based on what you described, there is a problem with the Blk ground wire or connection from ground connection G403.

This is how the horn circuit works for the 94-95 Accords. There are two different grounds at work in the circuit. Battery voltage (+) is applied to the horn relay contacts and the two horns at all times. The horn relay is a normally open type of relay. When you press either of the steering wheel horn buttons, ground (-) is supplied (Lt. Grn/Blu wire) from the steering wheel to the horn relay, which energizes the relay (the ground coming through from the steering wheel horn buttons to the relay are only to energize the horn relay to close the relay, the ground from the steering does not directly sound the horns); this in turn closes the horn relay and allows a different ground (-) (ground connection G403 located under the passenger side dash) to come through the relay to the horns and sound the horns. The horn (left and right) both should already have voltage power (+), they need the relay to close, so that the ground from G403 is allowed through the relay to the horns.

The relay click when you pressed the horn button means the ground from the steering wheel has energized the horn relay. Lt Grn/Blu wire from steering wheel and horn relay would probably be good. The horns not working, mean the ground from G403 is not reaching the relay or that is it has reached the relay; but, the wiring after that going to the horns has a problem. Since the horns work when you jumper across the relay, that means ground can go through the wiring after the relay to the horns.

 

I checked the G403 ground cable and it looks secure. Is there a way I can run a new ground from the relay connection to G403 or another ground location? Is there any way to verify that a ground is the problem, even though it seems like the last possible culprit?

Thanks for the help!

 

To test, use a piece of wire and connect to the terminal where the black wire is and ground it to the chassis metal. Then try the horn, if it works, it shows it is the ground wire coming from G403.

You can run a new ground to that wire terminal.

 

Think of the horn relay like a raised draw bridge. When the draw bridge is lowered (you lowered the bridge by pressing the horn switch on the steering wheel), a car can cross the bridge. The bridge sounds like it is working.

A car may not even be making it to the bridge, if there is a problem along the road before the bridge (blk wire coming from G403).

 

I ran a wire directly from the black wire to G403 and also to the negative battery terminal to verify, and it didn't work. Any other ideas? the metal prongs on the plug that the relay fits on seem clean, so maybe it's another wire that has been worn or disconnected. I also noticed a couple cut wires underneath the passenger dash. I had an aftermarket rad. fan relay unit put in, maybe this has something to do with it? The blue plug went to the rad. fan timer (which is no longer needed), but I'm not sure what the other plug went to.

 

 

Run a ground to the Blu/Red wire at the horn relay and ground that wire, does the horn sound immediately without even touching the horn button? It should.

Can you take a picture of the horn relay and wiring?

I will see where that other plug leads to.

 

The blue plugs (there are two of them right there) in that holder does not go to the radiator fan control module. The DLC connector is use to hook up a diagnostic tool. The Service Check Connector can be used to retrieve engine and transmission trouble codes(s) by jumping the 2-P connector with a wire or small paper clip, turning on the ignition and counting the indicator lamp flashes.

The black connector lead to the missing radiator fan control module. The wires that lead to the condenser fan relay and radiator fan relay were cut. Looks like the ground wire from G402 was also cut.

 

Thanks for the help with the mystery wires, I guess my mechanic must have cut them.

I tried running a ground directly to the terminal with the red/blue wires and heard nothing.

Here's a pic of the horn relay...

http://postimg.org/image/6y5bi3i33/

 

Do you have a volt meter to check for battery voltage (+ power) at the Wht/Yel wire at the horns. Touch red lead to Wht/Yel terminal and black wire from meter to chassis metal (ground).

If you don't have a voltmeter, use a piece of wire and ground the Blu/Red wire (-) terminal to chassis metal, if the horn sounds that means you are getting power battery (+) through the Wht/Yel wire.

 

If you were able to jump some a wire across the relay and it sounded, it should have sounded if ground was applied to the "Blu/Red" wire. If it didn't, check the fuse.

 

No voltage detected on either horn

 

I checked again and it still works when I jump the switch. However it still won't work going from ground to red/blue wire terminals

 

When I jump it, it works from red/blue to white/yellow. Ground to white/yellow blows the fuse, and none of the other two react, even when pressing the horn

 

Taking together your responses, it sounds like the wiring directly at the horns may have been incorrectly connected.

The Wht/Yel wires has battery voltage (+) at all times (both at the horn relay and at the horns).

1. At both left and right horns, the Wht/Yel wires suppose to get battery voltage (+) at all times. It doesn't make sense that you have no voltage at the horn; but, have voltage at the horn relay. Those Wht/Yel wires are protected by the same No. 30 (20A) fuse located in the under-hood fuse box.
2. At the horns, there are only two wires: the Wht/Yel wire (+) and the Blu/Red wire. The horns suppose to get their ground source through this Blu/Red wire. If there was power at the Wht/Yel wires at the horn, grounding the Blu/Red should have made them sound.
3. Jumping a wire at the relay from the Wht/Yel (+) to the Blu/Red should not have made the horns work, as the horns would not have a ground source. If the horns works this way, it kind of sounds like the Wht/Yel wires at the horns (which suppose to receive battery power (+) ) may have been cut or something and hooked up to ground.

Check the Wht/Yel wires directly at the horns to see if they were cut and spliced into some other wire or connected to a ground source. Take some pictures of the wiring under the hood leading to the horns.

 

SOLVED!

Thank you again for all of your help! My multimeter isn't reading anything correctly (I should have tried it on the battery first) so that kind of messed us up. As it turns out, someone screwed with the wiring before I bought the car, and failed at rewiring the horn to work.

The blue/red wires going to the horns were actually the ground wires, and the White/yellow coming from the horns were the hot ones (on one of the horns, someone connected a black wire to the white one near the horn for some reason). I took out a 12V tester and the white/yellow were the only hot ones at the relay, and where the black went to G403 ground. I ended up fixing it by running a wire from the White/Black on one horn, to the white/yellow on the second horn, directly to the battery terminal.

This is just a temporary solution, in the coming days I will run a new wire from the hot horn wires directly to the relay (Putting a 20A fuse in there as well). I don't fully understand why it works, and everything seems backwards to me, but it works.

Thanks again for all of the help!

 

Glad it is solved.

The wiring at the horns is a little different (kind of backward) for the 94-95 Accord, which may be why someone previous rewired it wrong on your car.

For the 96-97 Accords, Honda changed it. See my post here:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showpo...55&postcount=6