im about out of ideas, just seeing if anyone has experienced this themselves
ive read every post i could find on the subject and they all seem to be something stupid ive already replaced.

1991 da9 b18a1 all stock except skunk2 exhaust and cai.

on a cold start up car operated fine, once warmed up hesitated in 1st gear/2nd gear under 2k rpms.

replaced iac, cleaned and by-passed fitv after it seemed to fail. replaced 02 twice, new plugs, wires, dist, cap. Timing is dead on. replaced ecu, new main relay

after replacing a leaking coolant hose the car would not start, extremely flooded to the point i had to unplug the injector resistor box to get it to fire up. found a broken wire to my cts, repaired and replaced the sensor itself, car ran its normal hesitation, now the car runs rich at all times, i can smell gas upon start up, brand new plugs in, fired car up and checked they were pitch black. fpr is not leaking out, all im left with is map..i tested tps it was fine..can anyone help me out?? all pistions are wet, which gets rid of leaking injector idea. car will stumple and die on start up if i dont hold throttle plate open 1/4 throttle..very confused

 

i swapped out my iat, and map sensor, still running rich to the point where you can smell it. i ohm'd out all 4 injectors, 2.2 ohms, tested for battery voltage at all 4 injectors, 12.3v on all 4. I cleaned my thermo housing ground out of curiosity and on my drive home i threw a cel. 7, 14, 16, 43. tps, iac, injector, and fuel supply. i reset my ecu, and will see if codes come back or if they were due to unplugging of things in the past. but i never had any codes till cleaning that ground.

 

ECT sensor, [not to be confused with the ECT switch or the ECT sending unit, they are for the rad fan control and temp. gauge] symptoms = starts fine cold, hard starting if warm, runs like crap once engine is warm, [running rich].

The ECT sensor supplies ECU/ECM with engine temp. info to "lean out" the A/F ratio as engine warms up. 94

 

Thanks for the reply. I replaced the ECT when I fixed the broken wire to it. I reset the computer ad now have no codes once again, car still smells like gas on start ups and runs the same. I pulled the fuel rail, black resin like build up on the injectors, was wet, injectors under pressure didn't appear to leak...still clueless. Unless under heat the resistance In the injector(s) changes and leaks???

 

Are you sure it was the ECT sensor you switched and not the ECT switch or sending unit?

Sending unit, 1 wire, yellow/green.
Switch, 2 wire yellow/green and black.
Sensor, 2 wire red/white and green/white. 94

 

I have a 1 wire for the cluster, and a 2 wire for the coolant sensor on the head..but thats it that i can see

 

On G2s the ECT switch is on the back of the engine close to the oil filter.

I would check continuity of the two sensor leads between the sensor plug and the ECU/ECM, red/white is at C6 and the green to green/white is at C12. 94

 

+1 Same **** I was just dealing with. The ECT switch controls all kinds of stupid stuff. Make sure you changed the correct one. I tried to change the wrong switch the first time too. Not saying you did but... After the switch switch... no more problems.

 

That's the rad fan switch. The ECT sensor is next to the gauge sending unit, under the distributor.

 

+1 I just replaced this 1990 DB1. That was my mistake... I tried to replace the fan/temp switch one... IDK... then realized it is directly under the distributor. It controls a bunch of different things.

See pic:

 

Exactly what I said, "the ECT switch is on the back of the engine close to the oil filter" responding to the OPs post, "I have a 1 wire for the cluster, and a 2 wire for the coolant sensor on the head..but thats it that i can see". 94

 

I replaced the temp sensor on the head, not the one wire switch. i keep reading about people saying the sensor by the oil filter is also ect sensor, i have 3 plugs in rear of engine, oil press, ect? and another 2 wire i believe to be knock sensor. Fan still operates with plug on back of block unplugged. I pulled 1.4 k ohms from my ect connector at the head, didnt check at pcm yet for continuity.

 

As I mentioned the one on the back of the engine is the ECT switch, it controls the rad fan relay.

The one you switched at the end of the head was the correct one, I would now confirm continuity of the two leads to the ECU/ECM. 94

 

Well I have continuity. There's 0.7 ohms between connector and ecu...

 

On both leads? 94

 

well the pcv was clogged and only free flowing into the intake, that seems to have solved quite a few issues from driving it this morning to work.