I have a 2001 CRV, it just hit 141k. So, last night as I was leaving work I apparently ran out of gas. After making multiple trips to fill up the 1 gallon canister at the gas station I was still unable to get the car to start. I spent all day today, trying to figure out what has happened and am at a loss.


When starting it sounds as if the start is not engaging the flywheel, it spins very quickly and mikes a high pitched whining noise. Myself, friend, father and the guys at auto zone all decided it was the starter, so I installed a new one and... exact same results. Went back to auto zone and my original start does work properly. One thought was the flywheel may have been warped, I was able to use a socket to the crank pulley to rotate the flywheel and rotating assembly by hand, which I tried multiple times and kept getting the same results.

At this time I started checking all the other options, the car is getting fuel, you can hear the fuel pump kick on and prime and after loosening the fuel filter, gas sprayed everywhere so the gas is making it to the engine. All the fuses check out and are good, the battery is charged, have even tried with a jump.

However, I used a spark plug/ignition checker on plugs 4 and 2 and neither got spark. Within the last 30,000 miles i installed new plugs, wires, cap and rotor as part of a tune up. The rotor looks fine. At this point the only thing I can think of is the Coil. Is there a way to test the coil? Would no ignition be what is causing it to just whine when trying to start instead of the normal sound of it trying to turn over? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. If any more info is needed just ask. We are at a stand still and don't know where to go from here.

Thanks in advance!

 

If it's spins really fast when cranking it, it sounds more like a timing belt snapped on it. You can check it by removing the oil cap, and getting some one crank it over, you should see the valve train and cams spin when cranking. If nothing is moving, the timing belt snapped.

 

Thanks, I will check my timing belt. Question though, if my timing belt snapped that wouldn't cause no spark would it? My other suspect right now is the ignition coil. The car is at my dads so I don't have immediate access to it. So today I'm gonna be doing so research and tomorrow go back down and start checking every thing new

 

Yes it would, the distributor is driven off the end of the camshaft. If the cam isn't turning you're not going to get any fire.

If it's turning over quickly and has no spark think broken timing belt (also think bent valves)

 

Thanks. So I spun the motor by hand while using my phone to record video through the oil cap, no movement under the valve cover. I took the valve cover off, tried spinning again so I could clearly see the valve train and still no movement. I reached for the timing belt, assuming it would come off if snapped, and it is on there TIGHT! I'm going to get the cover off and try to see if I can get a better look at the belt.

Could the ribbing/teeth on the belt be worn so badly the crank pulley just spins in the belt?

Is there something anything else I should be checking for?

Thanks!

 

Pull the timing covers and see what happened.

It can, but it seems to be more of a European thing.



At this point I feel pretty confident it's a broken timing belt.

 

Just came back in and that's what it is. The Teeth for about 2 inches before the gear are gone. We cranked the motor by hand while looking down the cover and the gear just spins on the belt. So will be doing the water pump/ timing belt/ tensioner pulley this coming weekend. While I'm down there I plan on changing the other belts as I have had the card since 67k, and for 6 years, and never replaced was them, it was owned by an old lady before more and I doubt they were ever replaced before either. I'm also going to check the valve clearance as I know the CRV's have an issue there.

Are there any other preventative measures I should take while I'm at, or anything else that needs to be replaced?

Thanks

 

If you listen to one thing I say in this thread, make it this one: Buy a genuine Honda waterpump. I haven't seen an aftermarket waterpump yet that was worth using on a Honda.

I'd really advise that you don't change the accessory belts unless they're squealing. The OEM ones will crack a bit on the inside but they'll more or less go forever with no issues (just junked my '94 civic this spring with original PS and AC belts, 429,000kms, swapped 2 engines in it and I reused the original belts both times. I had to replace an alternator belt once only because the alternator seized and burnt the belt) Aftermarket Dayco and Gates belts will squeal.

Set the exhaust valve clearance on the loose side of the spec. Btw, you've probably got some bent valves from the broken timing belt. Expect to have to pull the head. You might get lucky though.

It's never a bad idea to replace the cam and crank seals while you're in there.

 

Whew, where to start? I agree with the bent valves and the seals. Otherwise ignore the rest of this post. In 15+ years of messing with Hondas (and plenty other makes) I have never in my life had an issue with an aftermarket pump or belts. If installed correctly the aftermarket water pumps and belts work perfectly fine.

Stock engines can benefit from the valves set on the tight side of spec. It's very slight but it gives the most lift and duration, meaning more power and better fuel mileage. You want to go looser and turbo and high compression as the combustion heat is higher.

 

I've always had issues with aftermarket waterpumps leaking way before the next timing belt service. Always. Same thing with accessory belts and I'm not the only one.

B20s were notorious for burning valves due to lack of clearance, that's why you set them on the loose side of the spec.

 

I don't know what water pumps you are using, I have installed tons ranging from all the normal parts stores and even eBay with no issues at all. Same with belts. A belt is a pretty simple device, never had a cheap one squeal.

As far as the valve thing, sounds more like the b20 valve seat issue more than the soec adjustment being too tight.

 

It is, but if you set the on the loose side of the spec you don't have to adjust them as often. I'm not saying adjust them looser than the spec, just to the loose side of it.

 

The parts should be delivered tomorrow.

I do not have the Honda crank pulley holder tool, however, we do have a rather large air compression and an impact gun. I don't recall the specs of the gun but I'm hoping it will be enough to break the bolt loose.

I did do a valve adjustment last fall so hopefully its all still within spec. I'm just praying I don't have any bent valves.

Question, will I need a timing light to check/adjust the timing? I've been told that as long as I line everything up properly with the TDC indicators. Once completed my timing would remain the same as it was prior to the belt going out. Can any one confirm this?

 

If you don't touch the distributor and line everything up properly you don't need a timing light. Odds are you bent valves though and will be pulling the head. You will want to resurface the head and that affects cam timing which then affects ignition timing. The amount of cam timing change is minimal enough that you can just set ignition timing and be cool on a mostly stock car. I always line to correct it with adjustable cam gears on modified cars though.

 

Got the timing belt and water pump on tonight. I wasn't able to check my valve clearances as I ran out of day light.

It started, and idle very roughly , almost like it was misfiring or my timing was incredibly off. We listened very closely but were unable to hear any unusual valve train noises. Started it a few times for roughly ten seconds or so. I followed this thread step by step http://www.hondasuv.com/members/showthread.php?t=53508, which was very useful. I won't be able to check anything for a few days. Any suggestions? Would bent valves have a noticeable tick/ping noise?

 

I personally have never seen an engine with bent valves run. Not saying it isn't possible, it's just usually so many valves it won't run. Gonna have to check valve lash or a leak down test to confirm bent valves

 

Well.. FML as most expected I do have bent valves. It "run", once you are going it will continue to run but idling and slowing down the idle drops so low the car will just die. It appears its just on 1 cylinder, and they said "due to how well its running" its probably just one valve.

SO now.. to pull the had and have repaired or to purchase a long block and drop it in? Any suggestions? I'm leaning towards a long block as long as the price is not to much of a difference. IF a longblock is how I go is there anything else I should replace instead of carry over from my current motor? I noticed one of the motor mounts looked torn while messing with the timing belt so that would be replaced. I see some sites there is a "97-2001 CRV B20B high compression" and a "Low compression" any benefit with one vs the other? The intake manifolds on the high compression tend to look more like the stanard b16 manifold than the one on my car, I'm assuming the low compression, which has the large "volume chamber box" on top of it.

 

I'd just pull it and have a machine shop fix it. It won't cost as much as you think