B16 Head
-Supertech Springs and Retainers
-Stock cams/Aftermarket gears
-R/C 750cc injectors
B18A1 Block
-Completely stock
Edelbrock Performer X Intake Manifold
65MM Pro. Products TB (TB and IM are port matched)
Stock Map Sensor
2.5" Piping
Garrett gt28r .60 a/r turbo on 7psi
3 inch downpipe to 2.5 inch exhaust
Cheap ebay turbo manifold
p28 Ecu chipped on chrome
Redline= 7200

Just got the car dyno tuned. It only made 203 whp and 193 torque on pump gas. The exhaust and turbo manifold is what my tuner said was restricting me so much because the runners on the manifold were smaller than the ports on the head. Other than the exhaust and manifold what can i do?

 

Numbers sound right for 7psi, the turbo loves more boost so don't be afraid to turn up the boost. A gt28r will support 330 crank hp..

The 2.5" exhaust isn't helping. Is it mandrel or crush bent?

What kind of manifold? I've got a real b series greddy manifold that I've ported and gasket matched, could be what you need to ditch the ebay pos.

Also are you running any kind of intake and filter on the turbo? Some air filters are restrictive (k&n panel filters are a perfect example) they make dry stainless steel or aluminum mesh filters that are far less restrictive than a typical aftermarket filter. Plus it filtered out smaller size debris the others can't. . Plus to clean them you just hit em with a hose

Have you considered port/gasket matching the intake manifold runners and intake ports? Same thing for the turbo manifold to the head and the turbine housing inlet to the turbine outlet on the manifold? It might seem like a lot of work but can be done easily, cleanly, and quickly with a dremel tool and the right bits and flapper wheels. This will smooth out airflow as it transitions from place to place. On the exhaust side you'll see reduced manifold backpressure as well as better spool/response and a tad bit more torque. When you're trying to get as much power out of your setup as possible doing the above will make sure everything is as efficient as possible

2.5" intercooler piping is fine but what intercooler? The ebay units are trash. Look for a used precision unit that has a Garrett core or consider PWR (I have a new core with no endtanks, fyi. Core is 24x9x3 and I'd give you the hookup of a lifetime. It was 480 from PWR but for a good guy I'll let it go dirt cheap.. shameless plugs lol)

Get a boost controller, either a manual one or use a solenoid and your ems to control boost. Ditch the stock map, get at least a 3bar map, crank the boost to 14psi (for starters) tune it and get ready for gobs of midrange torque and power. If you don't like 14 you can go up to 20psi and be fine. You should near or at the turbos at that pressure level but the car will be so damn quick on the street. LightningTeg took a stock ls and a gt2860r and at 20psi he made 300whp and 300wtq on a totally stock motor (not even headstuds) he autox'd it a lot and said it was an absolute blast to drive on the street. So if he can do that on a stock ls I know you can make at least 280-290 with your motor

Raise the rev limit a bit. You can do 8000 with no issues..

I'm assuming you have some sort of headstuds, arp/golden eagle? Oem hg?

What clutch is in the car? Gotta be sure it can handle more power before you go on your quest for power

Also get a set of gsr cams, they have slightly more lift and a little bit more duration than b16 cams. Or if you'd like source a clean set of CTR cams... put that valvetrain to use

Also what part number is your wastegate actuator? Some don't like high boost and have a hard time maintaining it. An HKS actuator upgrade will ensure rock solid boost control and will hold whatever pressure you want (as long as the turbo can take it)



And how do you like the way the gt28r performs? I asked you in another thread of yours but I don't think you ever replied. As I have a gt28r that I'm considering using on my built 10.5:1 cr ls/vtec for awhile. B16 head with supertech dual springs and comp/zex tool retainers, GSC T1 cams and such. Custom 46mm itbs and a Neukin AX tubular t25 flanged manifold that has provisions for a tial 38mm wg (old two bolt style) I'm considering running it until I get my bigger turbo built (building my own Mitsubishi based fun turbo lol) I just want to see how far I can take it ya know?

I hope my answers/advice are found to be of some use and helpful. If you have any questions about my replies or need more advice (or want to find out about my parts for sale... *had to haha*) feel free to pm me whenever you like

 

Wow lots of information. Thanks a lot! And yes I do like the turbo on the car. This is my first turbo experience so I don't really have anything to compare it too really.
I actually had an intercooler in mind I was going to pick up because the one I have is a cheap eBay one and it's one of those smaller versions. But the intercooler has 3" outlets on it. How would that work with my 2.5" piping? And does something like require a tune to run properly?

 

Everything requires a tune to run properly. Even a NA motor requires a tune when you put on a different exhaust or intake. The intercooler is part of the intake in my book, since it leads to the throttle body. Anyways, the reason you tune it is to make maximum power out of it. On naturally aspirated motors, stock motors, most people slap on a new exhaust and a new air intake and just let the ECU try and figure it out. That's not really the proper way to do it at all. It becomes more of an issue with a turbo charged motor though. You will see bigger differences because there is more going on. I could explain the absolute this and that, ect, but you can read up on turbos if you care about that. Or you may already know.

Anyways, long story short, if you are changing pieces of your turbo set up you should tune it. If you are turning up the boost you definitely want to retune it for more power. Going from 7 psi to 14 would be like turbo charging the motor and not tuning it at all and just running with it.

 

Oh yea I know that I need a tune for replacing that. What I meant by running properly, was will it still drive to get me from my house to the shop. And how about me running 2.5" piping to the 3" outlet on the intercooler? Ok?

 

Your fine with a reducing coupler on the FMIC. the step down in exhaust size is a big no no. Thats definatly going to choke it out. Also you need to be taking that motor to 8k. Even if its stock LS bottom end it will be fine to 8k so long as you keep the peak power at 300 after that the LS bottom end is a weak point untill forged internals are installed

 

I agree with the coupler, the FMIC isn't that big of a deal. Exhaust should be as big as you can fit.

So this is an LS/VTEC basically. I know the head can handle 8,000 rpm but I'm no expert on the block. I assume it should still be good also.

 

I my self and my buddy have turned multiple stock LS bottom ends past 8k rpm and they hold. I personally for longevity reasons wouldnt go past 8k though. The bolts will stretch on the rods when going past 8k rpm over time and sometimes quickly.

 

Okay so for the manifold, I found a good deal on a Neukin manifold. This link actually shows the exact version.
http://www.neukin.com/Neukin_AX_Hond...neukinaxbm.htm

Will this be good? By the way im looking to hopefully get 300hp out of this set up

 

Yes that quick 4 will work well. I highly recommend having it made with the 44mm wastegate or synapse 50 the quick 4's like to creep with small gates on them.

You could also contact Tim at Turbo-Elements for a nice manifold and good pricing as well

 

The parts you have can make way more power than you are making. Lots of people have made 300whp on 2 1/2 downpipes and exhaust. Why didn't your tuner turn up the boost to get more power?

 

Just because of the manifold i have on there. It would have cracked

 

What do you mean by "creep"?

 

Is 14 psi really safe on a stock block?

 

AHHHHHHHHHHHHHH NOOOOOOOOOOOOOO



But seriously, PSI doesn't mean very much at all. It's all about the horsepower you are making. 20 PSI out of a T25 could be 300 HP. 20 PSI out of a GT4780 would make close to 700 HP. A terrible example, but I think it makes sense.

 

Correct boost pressure doesnt mean much its the HP output that you need to concern your self with.

Boost creep is when you have a 10 psi spring and you end up with more boost pressure then your supposed. its from to small a wastegate to bleed off enough exhaust gasses to hold steady boost pressures.

 

14psi on a 28r means healthy power numbers and torque that's still "safe" for a stock block.

Glad to see most of you agreed with my first huge post lol

 

What kind of benefits would i see by throwing in ITR cams instead of GSR?

 

well the gsr cams are itr/ctr cams as far as lift, without the duration of the itr/ctr cams.

so basically the itr/ctr cams have the same lift as gsr cams with a little bit more duration.

If you can't afford the itr/ctr cams then just stick with a set of gsr cams (people are making over 800whp on gsr cams) I think they would fit the gt28r and it's power delivery quite well

and please please tell me how you like the gt28r/how it responds on the street before I sell mine lol

 

I did respond in an earlier post! Ha but idk this is my first car and first turbo car so I guess to me it works good. I wouldn't depend on me whether to keep or sell it

 

the tuner shoulda ran 11psi and less timing is all. mans scared

 

where lol? i must keep missing it

 

I think it was in a previous thread! But ok so I picked up a set of cams. According to the FF squad id site, they seem to be b17 92-93 cams. Now, are these the same as GSR Cams? And are they even an upgrade from my b16 cams? I will attach pics.