skunk2 cams for a 99 gsr
Whatups honda-tech, I done with my basic bolt-on setup and im starting and planning to get cams... but I'm not sure which ones to get... This is going to be a track car and im planning to go all motor gsr, right now I'm stuck between the skunk2 pro-series and the tuner-series, i'm not sure which one to get, and which stage is better for my setup, also what kind of retainers and valves springs will i need to support my cams? and will I need to tune it by hondata or something? or I can just install them...
You will need a tune for sure to avoid engine damage after valvetrain swap. If you don't use S2 springs the short warranty is void on the cams (fine print). Supertech springs and retainers work fine for most cam swaps. Otherwise put tuner springs on tuner cams and pro springs on pro cams. Keep in mind that you need 11+ compression to run pro series cams all motor.
You can "bolt in" tuner 1's and however anything past tuner 2 cams and you'll NEED to have the car properly tuned. And with the pro series you have to degree them. So yes a GSR has 10:1 c/r so yes upping the c/r would bennifit you, no you can get the wrist pins pushed Dan just reuse them but forged(eagle) you be better. As for
Pistons depends on what C/R you shot for.
Pistons depends on what C/R you shot for.
Also keep in mind if you go over 11 c/r you'll need a tune to avoid detonation (pinging) on 91 octane (garbage). Maybe you're lucky and have 93 octane by you. You won't necessarily ping @ 11, but mine did so there's a lot more to cam consideration than most people realize. Afaik you will also need a higher flowing plenum (edelbrock, S2, etc) for pro series and bigger than 60mm t/b (stock gsr) is adviseable. Adjustable cam sprockets will be needed regardless of which aftermarket cams you go with. Basically, put the best springs/retainers in first. Save a ton and go with the tuners...or save up for an entire build to run big nasties (pro series are huge cams, dude- 1/2 inch lift is almost as big as it gets for the b series)
waste of money
pro 1s on an 11:5-1 motor with a good header, cleaned up pr3 head and itr intake manifold with an itr TB tuned aggressive in good air makes 200whp
all of that will cost you about as much as a decent turbo setup from go autowerks which can make 300whp easily on a stock gsr.
it's also a LOT less work to install a turbo vs switching out pistons, porting heads and setting up cams
either way will require a tune
pro 1s on an 11:5-1 motor with a good header, cleaned up pr3 head and itr intake manifold with an itr TB tuned aggressive in good air makes 200whp
all of that will cost you about as much as a decent turbo setup from go autowerks which can make 300whp easily on a stock gsr.
it's also a LOT less work to install a turbo vs switching out pistons, porting heads and setting up cams
either way will require a tune
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Also keep in mind if you go over 11 c/r you'll need a tune to avoid detonation (pinging) on 91 octane (garbage). Maybe you're lucky and have 93 octane by you. You won't necessarily ping @ 11, but mine did so there's a lot more to cam consideration than most people realize. Afaik you will also need a higher flowing plenum (edelbrock, S2, etc) for pro series and bigger than 60mm t/b (stock gsr) is adviseable. Adjustable cam sprockets will be needed regardless of which aftermarket cams you go with. Basically, put the best springs/retainers in first. Save a ton and go with the tuners...or save up for an entire build to run big nasties (pro series are huge cams, dude- 1/2 inch lift is almost as big as it gets for the b series)
waste of money
pro 1s on an 11:5-1 motor with a good header, cleaned up pr3 head and itr intake manifold with an itr TB tuned aggressive in good air makes 200whp
all of that will cost you about as much as a decent turbo setup from go autowerks which can make 300whp easily on a stock gsr.
it's also a LOT less work to install a turbo vs switching out pistons, porting heads and setting up cams
either way will require a tune
pro 1s on an 11:5-1 motor with a good header, cleaned up pr3 head and itr intake manifold with an itr TB tuned aggressive in good air makes 200whp
all of that will cost you about as much as a decent turbo setup from go autowerks which can make 300whp easily on a stock gsr.
it's also a LOT less work to install a turbo vs switching out pistons, porting heads and setting up cams
either way will require a tune
Just saying 91 is an ok premium but my car likes 93 better. I wish we had 93 here is all...
Also, I agree with you about liking all motor better. I know the output is less but id rather have 230 all motor than 300 boosted because imo its a more raw power than waiting for spool. Throw a 50-70 shot on top for an equalizer (forged pistons of course). I'm planning on itb's next build for instant response and rediculous flow.
Also, I agree with you about liking all motor better. I know the output is less but id rather have 230 all motor than 300 boosted because imo its a more raw power than waiting for spool. Throw a 50-70 shot on top for an equalizer (forged pistons of course). I'm planning on itb's next build for instant response and rediculous flow.
you could get into an s2000, 350z, c5 z06, wrx, evo8, LOT of fun cars under 20,000 and some like the 350z and s2000 start around 7,000-,8,000
counting what you could sell your car for an upgrade would probably not be too much more than buying the other car. also would be a lot more reliable to get something newer with the hp you want stock
Just saying 91 is an ok premium but my car likes 93 better. I wish we had 93 here is all...
Also, I agree with you about liking all motor better. I know the output is less but id rather have 230 all motor than 300 boosted because imo its a more raw power than waiting for spool. Throw a 50-70 shot on top for an equalizer (forged pistons of course). I'm planning on itb's next build for instant response and rediculous flow.
Also, I agree with you about liking all motor better. I know the output is less but id rather have 230 all motor than 300 boosted because imo its a more raw power than waiting for spool. Throw a 50-70 shot on top for an equalizer (forged pistons of course). I'm planning on itb's next build for instant response and rediculous flow.
then leave the car stock and save up for something quicker if you want more power
you could get into an s2000, 350z, c5 z06, wrx, evo8, LOT of fun cars under 20,000 and some like the 350z and s2000 start around 7,000-,8,000
counting what you could sell your car for an upgrade would probably not be too much more than buying the other car. also would be a lot more reliable to get something newer with the hp you want stock
you could get into an s2000, 350z, c5 z06, wrx, evo8, LOT of fun cars under 20,000 and some like the 350z and s2000 start around 7,000-,8,000
counting what you could sell your car for an upgrade would probably not be too much more than buying the other car. also would be a lot more reliable to get something newer with the hp you want stock
If youre going to track the car, worry more about suspension and tires than additional power. Speed is in handling and control before power on the ground. On the other hand im assuming you mean road race and not drag so if you mean a straight line then proceed. lol
You can run pro 1's starting from 11 comp but honestly its a waste to do that and youre probably better off with tuner cams. Either use them near their potential or dont use em at all. If you just want a little more power drop in tuner 1's, maybe even tuner 2's but not sure you'll see too much difference in them on your setup. Cam choices go hand in hand with how the motor is set up so the more aggressive the cam the greater the build requirements.
You can run pro 1's starting from 11 comp but honestly its a waste to do that and youre probably better off with tuner cams. Either use them near their potential or dont use em at all. If you just want a little more power drop in tuner 1's, maybe even tuner 2's but not sure you'll see too much difference in them on your setup. Cam choices go hand in hand with how the motor is set up so the more aggressive the cam the greater the build requirements.
If youre going to track the car, worry more about suspension and tires than additional power. Speed is in handling and control before power on the ground. On the other hand im assuming you mean road race and not drag so if you mean a straight line then proceed. lol
You can run pro 1's starting from 11 comp but honestly its a waste to do that and youre probably better off with tuner cams. Either use them near their potential or dont use em at all. If you just want a little more power drop in tuner 1's, maybe even tuner 2's but not sure you'll see too much difference in them on your setup. Cam choices go hand in hand with how the motor is set up so the more aggressive the cam the greater the build requirements.
You can run pro 1's starting from 11 comp but honestly its a waste to do that and youre probably better off with tuner cams. Either use them near their potential or dont use em at all. If you just want a little more power drop in tuner 1's, maybe even tuner 2's but not sure you'll see too much difference in them on your setup. Cam choices go hand in hand with how the motor is set up so the more aggressive the cam the greater the build requirements.
Run what you got or keep it simple. The more seat time you get the more you'll be thinking about improving/tweaking its handling characteristics than how much faster you can make it go in the straights which takes no skill.
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