All motor na h22 afr problem?
Hi all
I recently put the engine back ind my lude.
But my tuner and I are facing a problem.
Full throttle is fine, and making alot of power. Its when we are trying to tune "normal driving" not sure how to explain it, but you know when you are just holding the speed at the same mph.
If we set it to closed loop lambda voltage target 2.3v it should run afr 14.7
and it does. Thing is when WOT theres no problem. But when it try to reach 14.7 it will bug as **** and not run right. So obviously it wants more fuel to run good
lowering the voltage to 1.8v will set the afr down to ~13.5 and every thing is fine there. Car runs smooth and fine.
Can it be true that it wont run at 14.7?
Setup is h22 skunk2 pro2 cams, CP 12.5:1 pistons, hytech replica header, 2.5" exhaust and euro r intake with RC550cc injectors. Also brand new wideband, but I guess it wont last long with that much fuel beeing burned..
We thought about it was a leak somewhere on the intake side? Maybe one cyllinder is running lean and wants more fuel when the other 3 will run ok at 14.7 but one will bug and make it act up?
Im not sure, hope you guys can help out.
/Rasmus
I recently put the engine back ind my lude.
But my tuner and I are facing a problem.
Full throttle is fine, and making alot of power. Its when we are trying to tune "normal driving" not sure how to explain it, but you know when you are just holding the speed at the same mph.
If we set it to closed loop lambda voltage target 2.3v it should run afr 14.7
and it does. Thing is when WOT theres no problem. But when it try to reach 14.7 it will bug as **** and not run right. So obviously it wants more fuel to run good
lowering the voltage to 1.8v will set the afr down to ~13.5 and every thing is fine there. Car runs smooth and fine.
Can it be true that it wont run at 14.7?
Setup is h22 skunk2 pro2 cams, CP 12.5:1 pistons, hytech replica header, 2.5" exhaust and euro r intake with RC550cc injectors. Also brand new wideband, but I guess it wont last long with that much fuel beeing burned..
We thought about it was a leak somewhere on the intake side? Maybe one cyllinder is running lean and wants more fuel when the other 3 will run ok at 14.7 but one will bug and make it act up?
Im not sure, hope you guys can help out.
/Rasmus
sounds like you need a new tuner to be totally honest. there is absolutely no reason it should be doing that unless the ignition is way off. like waaaaay off
Okay car might have a problem..
went to drive 2km to work this after noon. And went home, but instead of running a cold start I figured id take the highway and let the car get hot.
2-3gear pull down to the highway then 5gear suddenly engine light came on and I took off the gas. It died immediately. Could start her right back up though, but with engine light on..
So had to wait one hour for auto help.. That sucked.. Oh well gotta check the error code tomorrow and see what's going on.
30min before this episode i had my iat sensor out for a clean.
Could the sensor have taken a **** and failed?
went to drive 2km to work this after noon. And went home, but instead of running a cold start I figured id take the highway and let the car get hot.
2-3gear pull down to the highway then 5gear suddenly engine light came on and I took off the gas. It died immediately. Could start her right back up though, but with engine light on..
So had to wait one hour for auto help.. That sucked.. Oh well gotta check the error code tomorrow and see what's going on.
30min before this episode i had my iat sensor out for a clean.
Could the sensor have taken a **** and failed?
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that would not cause it to run any differently at all, besides idle not being controlled properly and possibly stalling from not being able to idle.
it really sounds like you need a new tuner. in the meantime though, you can download the map from your ecu and post it here on HT in the Engine Management section and us tuners can take a look at it and see if anything stands out as not being right
it really sounds like you need a new tuner. in the meantime though, you can download the map from your ecu and post it here on HT in the Engine Management section and us tuners can take a look at it and see if anything stands out as not being right
you also dont tune in closed loop. If you want to run closed loop, that is something that is setup AFTER it has been tuned. There is only so much closed loop is going to do. If the fueling is way off and the O2 sensor cant compensate for it, you are going to run into problems. Turn closed loop off and tune the fuel maps. The reason it works fine at WOT is because closed loop is not operative at WOT.
Yea, tuner just called. He noticed it was pulling some vacuum 900mbar at WOT when it should be around ~1000. He was talking about my air filer which is aem v2. And only 68mm TB. He told me it might be too small for this setup now?
But which size TB and intake manifold should I then get? Currently running Euro R intake port matched to 68mm
Car made 271crank hp/266nm
We did a pull on the dyno without the air filter on and got 25-30nm more at 2500rpms.
It very well could be my intake side thats bottlenecking it?
But which size TB and intake manifold should I then get? Currently running Euro R intake port matched to 68mm
Car made 271crank hp/266nm
We did a pull on the dyno without the air filter on and got 25-30nm more at 2500rpms.
It very well could be my intake side thats bottlenecking it?
Last edited by Rasmusm; Sep 17, 2013 at 07:05 AM.
So I was checking some stuff today to figure out this problem..
Took out the spark plugs and saw that cyl 3 was slightly more brownish than the rest was.
I still believe it wont run 14.7 because of one cyllinder acting up. Lowering the af gives that cyllinder more fuel and is then running fine as the rest.. Maybe the 3 other cyl's will run fine at 14.7 but cant because of cyl 3 ? Does that sound stupid
Anyways I uploaded a few pics of the plugs
Cyl 3 is the one at right on the pic where 4+3 is. 4-2-1 all looks the same


I checked my hondata intake gasket, bolts were all tight
Could it be coolant in that cyllinder? Even tho it doesnt drink anything, or blow compression out in the system.
Maybe I should have it checked for Co in the coolant
What do you think?
Took out the spark plugs and saw that cyl 3 was slightly more brownish than the rest was.
I still believe it wont run 14.7 because of one cyllinder acting up. Lowering the af gives that cyllinder more fuel and is then running fine as the rest.. Maybe the 3 other cyl's will run fine at 14.7 but cant because of cyl 3 ? Does that sound stupid
Anyways I uploaded a few pics of the plugs
Cyl 3 is the one at right on the pic where 4+3 is. 4-2-1 all looks the same


I checked my hondata intake gasket, bolts were all tight
Could it be coolant in that cyllinder? Even tho it doesnt drink anything, or blow compression out in the system.
Maybe I should have it checked for Co in the coolant
What do you think?
I stand by my post, you need to find a better tuner. it sounds like your ignition map is set horribly wrong for part throttle.
and it's totally normal for WOT to not reach a full 1000mbar, due to altitude and barometric pressure, and air filters and TB.
the WOT portion of the tune has zero relation to part throttle tuning. that's why there are multiple columns for various manifold pressure settings at all the rpm points; so you can tune all throttle positions independently.
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