Got a weird issue. I have a 94 civic DX with a y7 swap. Its converted to OBD1 using all the old d15b7 parts which include the ECU ( P06 ). Few things are new. Alternator, Injectors, fuel rail, distributor, ECT, rad fan switch, and the standard stuff like 02 sensor, plugs, wires, fuel filter, but the rest is pretty stock. I do have a short ram and cat back on it.

Here's the problem. I'm guessing ground? It idles higher when I turn the running / headlights on. Its also really hard to start. Timing is good ( that I know of tho it might be 1 tooth off. The white mark doesn't exactly sit right in the middle of the wedge when the head is in the 'up' position. ) cos it'll idle around 700 rpm or so once its started. I have to crank the hell out of it to get it to start tho ( I think the fuel pump is going out 'n I plan to change that anyways before my next swap ) It also gets a lil too warm before the rad fan kicks on ( According to my aftermarket temp guage - 215 approx. ) Cooling system leaks coolant somewhere, but I'm taking care of that soon when I do a cooling system overhaul ( new hoses, rad, etc etc )

I've searched the net up and down, and I've tried just about everything I can aside from ripping this thing completely apart and redoing it. I just want it to run and start reliably until spring, or until I decide to put the new swap in. Whichever comes first.

Any input is greatly appreciated.

 

Out of all that not one mention of how high the car is actually idling.

 

You mean the high beams right ? if you do that as soon as you start it up that's normal if it jumps by 200rpms at first but it should go away not long after the car has run for a bit.

 

Idle can be irratic if the coolant is low and the idle may change a bit anyways due to the extra electrical load.

 

The idle jumps to about 1k. I also have the coolant lines bypass the IAC if that affects anything. The idle doesn't pulse like it would if the IAC was dirty. It just jumps when I turn the lights on. Found it odd.

 

lol, this is completely normal. Electrical load is increased when anything is turned on creating more strain on the engine. The engine adjusts the idle to compensate. How is that odd what so ever?

 

Because it didn't do it before. I thought that maybe the hard starting was related some how. That's why I posted about it.

 

Test the battery

 

IACV compensating for increased electrical load on the alternator. With the hodge-podge of parts you've bolted together its doing pretty good. The 1.6 is prolly over-revving a little with the increased intake intended for a 1.5 (the 1.5 prolly needs it to "step on the gas" a little more for the same effect).
Actually I have a stock B7 bored .020 over and it does the same thing with a lot of accessories running.