I have a B18c type R motor with a damaged crankshaft and a B20b motor.
Can I use the B20 crank in the B18 block.
If so what rods should I use.I have both types.
I want to use the B18 as it has new JE pistons fitted.

 

b20 and b18 cranks are the same. the bores are what make the difference, and yes, you can use them in a b18c but I believe the oil squirters need to be shaved


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oh also if you use a b18 crank you need to use b18 rods (theyre shorter than type r/gsr rods)
thr pistons though are going to alter your compression ratio in a way that may not be desirablr


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yep u sure can use that crank. ls/b20 rods are what you need. golden eagle makes the squirter plugs, they cost like 20 bucks. dont overtorque them trust me. a bit of loctite and u are good to go

all bearings in the bottom end at this point can be sourced from the crv or b18 nonvtec

 

B18 LS and B20 cranks are the same. B20 and GSR/Type R are NOT the same.

 

B20/B18a-b cranks 89mm the B18c cranks are 87.2mm

To the OP as others have said yes it will fit you will need to change conrods as well to suit the B20 crank.

 

thats what I was trying to say, that the b18a/b and b20 cranks are the same, and the gsr/itr cranks are shorter stroke. I posted at work so ibdidnt catch it


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Not only is the stroke different, but the big end width of the rods are also different.

But as was said it wouldn't work out very well with the gsr/itr rods anyways even if they did fit since the deck clearance would be way too much.

 

Whats the downside to removing the oil squirters?
As stated I have both types of rods, B20b ones are Eagle the c ones are factory R
Its a track motor.

 

I still have them in my B18c block with B20 crank they just needed to be bent to the side a little to clear the counter weight of the crank.

 

Thats great information thanks,is there any extra I should do to the crank and what cr and capacity will it have.

 

I can tell you from experience that does not work, as it doesn't account from vibrations of the engine above 1000rpms. Most that have done it have almost broken the tips inside the block.. So you are lucky in this case.. Be extra safe. Remove the squirters. Especially if using the forged pistons, there's no downside

 

I have run the LS cranks with and without them. If you are going to bend the jets you must take careful note of how much counterweight clearance there is. H-t members frequently advise removing them but have no clear data on how effective they are. Piston cooling jets dominate high performance engines for good reason. All pistons alloys are sensative to temperature and our favorite domestic, Japanese, German, Italian, Nascar, F1 cars have them. I started leaving them in again because I think the extra thermal management is a good thing.

 

I'm not saying you're wrong on this at all, Runnerdown. My concern mainly is that that majority of the people attempting this don't know how to properly measure the counterweight balance when bending the jets. All it takes is one wrong misstep, and you've got to tear the entire thing back down and rehone (best case scenario).

So, because the majority of users aren't going to be on a circuit or event where the long term benefits of the cooling will outweigh the potential risk and cost with additional exposure, (especially with forged pistons), its best to remove them for a measly $12 with a pinch of red Loctite and not have to worry about it again. Yes, in a perfect theoretical bubble, it always shows some benefit.

But as a practical matter, for the 99% of users for this particular type of build, it really isn't worth the risk if they are incorrect in measuring.

 

LS/B20 rods are drilled to sling oil onto the bottoms of the pistons. I remove the oil squirters in all GSR/Type R blocks. Reason being I have seen the stems cracked off of the the base of the squirter. I have also seen the stem come unpressed out of the base of the oil squirter. If the nozzle/stem comes off or cracks you will be losing oil pressure and volume to where it counts. I also don't like the GE oil squirter blockoffs because they can back out and yet again you will have a large internal oil leak. The proper way to delete the oil squirters is to drill/tap the block for a 1/8" pipe plug. Pipe thread wont leak or work loose.

 

I do agree with you and because I take so much care when assembling an engine to check and double check all the clearances in the engines that I build I have not ever had a problem with this type of build.

 

Theory says you'll gain HP from the deletion

 

Please explain the theory further,I'm sure it would be very little gain if any.

 

Less windage.

There are lots of efforts in race motors to keep oil from splashing on the rotating and reciprocating parts in the crankcase. Some of these include using windage trays, directional oil screens, crankscrapers, oil baffling/cylinder-to-cylinder separators, dry sumping, and/or oil return passages that empty below the crank centerline. The K-bottom ends has some of these features that the B-motors do not.

Also polished surfaces and specially oil-shedding coatings reduce some windage--but this is very extreme. Would only do if you had nothing else on the motor to tweak.

 

Ok. Done & done..

 

Op I don't mean to thread jack but TheShodan, Uncle Dave, and Rocket bring up valid points.

I understand from reading and research that most people say that when the B18C/B16 blocks are being used with forged internals oil squiters are not needed. However my question to them is, what about using the LS/B20 crank with OEM cast style pistons in the GSR/ITR block along with the oil squiters? Some of you guys mentioned to bend the oil squiters, if so how much and how far can these safely go?