i have a 1995 integra Ls with a GSR b18c1 Swap and the problem im having is the car is idling a little rough, bit of white smoke from the exhaust and also while driving and trying to keep at a consistant speed the car jerks. but if im not on the gas or on its fine only when i try maintain it at one speed. i search many forums and change lots of parts such as
Fuel Regulator
Fuel Pump
Distributor
Injectors
Spark Plugs
ECU
I checked the cat to see if its clogged but its not
I did a compression test the numbers were WAY OFF but for a natural aspirated motor i would assume the numbers would be different.

Im running out of problems and tierd of wasting money my last resource is a Head Gasket but the motor was freshly built about 2 months ago by Me.

 

Clutch/transmission related maybe. Not really my area of expertise, just a thought. GL

 

i had the same problem on my da, it was that the motor mounts were absolutely trashed, i just did the window weld motor mounts and its was all fixed, drives solid as **** now.

 

White smoke would be coolant burning, so HG.

You said you did a compression test, what are the numbers.

Also, when you did the compression test did you do it on a warm engine with TB wide open? 94

 

I did a Wet compression and here are the numbers and i did it on a warm engine
Cylinder 1 - 195
cylinder 2 - 235
Cylinder 3 - 300
Cylinder 4- 350

there shouldnt be anythig wrong with my transmission worked fine before i did the rebuilt all i change was the clutch NOT the flywheel i used my old one.

 

The last 2 numbers are CRAZY high ! 195 to 235 is TOO much of variance(max 25) what about a dry test how much oil was used. From this test I would say rings but do a dry test first and if too much oil was used for the wet one that would throw the test results off.

 

did you test the TPS sensor through it's range looking for a dead spot? they wear out just like a volume control and can definitely cause jerking

 

As mentioned, do a dry compression test first then a wet one, I would also try another compression tester. 94

 

If those numbers are right, you have a blown headgasket or crack between the two cylinders

 

For the jerking I would check the tps. Had this same issue. Replaced it and set it to specs haven't had a issue since

 

Ive checked my TPS and everything reading right i even changed my Throttle body cause before i had a s90 so i threw on a Type r one i had laying around to see if it made a difference and it wasn't as bad of a struggle but the problem is still there.

I used a cap full of oil, i did a dry one before i did the wet and the numbers were just as off and not in sequential unfornatly.

im going to pull off the top end and see if it is the head gasket ill keep posted i appreciated all the help

 

HG won't cause high comp numbers in a wet test like what you're seeing want a 90% pin point answer ? leakdown test save the effort/money for a swap or rebuild. I still highly recommend a more recent dry test before you jump into more lengthy repairs

 

Not related to compression but I had the same problem and I had some sensors plugged into the wrong spot (i believe the idle air control and evap purge were switched, both two pin connectors) but I have also heard of checking and cleaning egr ports on the intake as well as checking out the egr its self

 

IIRC from your thread in the civic section you have a H/F engine in your civic right ?. B series doesn't have an EGR valve/related/. his compression on 3/4 cyl is extremely high my tester won't even go past 300 lol. but that's why I said do a dry test may yield something like 120 or less in those CYL's OP does your car burn oil ?

 

if those numbers are right, you might as well plan on pulling the head anyway, you arent going to waste any time, something is seriously wrong internally

 

It is because the numbers are so high, I recommend doing the compression test(s) again, first a dry then a wet, using another compression gauge. 94

 

Could check the map sensor my friends ls would do this also and his was the map sensor. Sounds sensor related to me

 

Oops, my bad... but still check sensors (look up wire colors and make sure the match up with the sensor) I couldnt even take the emmissions test until mine were put in the correct order

 

will do a dry then wet test again and for any sensors ive doubled checked and tested to see if missed wired but its all correct.. the engine was running before perfectly fine no problems.. i did the swap 2 months ago and this is now recently occurring.

ill also look into the leak down test