First off, sorry if this has been posted before, I'm sure it has at some point. I tried some searching last night, but time is of the essence and I'm just a little worried. I will still continue searching but thought I would go ahead and ask for any help/knowledge. I just bought the car a couple days ago and am getting the emissions done in another couple days so I can get my tag.

94 Integra LS. 164k on body, ~115k on (swapped) engine
b18b1 (on block)
5 speed.
Supposedly chipped, no name i/h/e
NO check engine light on (yes it works), runs just fine, but...

So yesterday I changed the oil and was just looking over the engine bay. The previous owner said his dad had swapped in a lower mileage engine. I believe he put in an obd2 engine. Looking around the bay, I noticed the evap purge solenoid (obd1 style from what I've searched) is plugged in, but no vacuum lines are going to it, and I don't notice a nipple on the manifold for it to connect to. Also I noticed another solenoid/valve (obd2 I believe) on top of the intake manifold, not plugged in or vacuum hose going to it.




This is an obd2 manifold, correct?

There is no check engine light on, and the car runs fine. I disregarded the solenoid on top of the manifold because it runs fine and the check engine light isn't on, assuming it was just a different stock manifold. I think I'll fail emissions without the evap purge solenoid plugged back into the manifold, so is there anything I can do right now short of buying an obd1 manifold? If I was to run a vacuum line to the top solenoid from the obd1 (using that as the nipple) it wouldn't work right since the obd2 solenoid doesn't have an electrical connection?

If there's nothing I can really do other than buy an obd1 manifold I'll give the emissions a shot first, see if it passes, and if not buy a manifold.

Thanks

 

So I found this thread, and a couple others and I *should* pass emissions.

http://www.team-integra.net/forum/11...n-replace.html

However, I'm in school for Environmental Science and would like to fix this properly to help with the venting into the atmosphere. I'm going to search more to see if I can just get a harness to plug into the obd2 purge solenoid, match wires from obd1(if I can), and run the vacuum line to the obd2 one. Sound possible, and without ill effects?

 

the plug shouldn't be hard to find. all you would need to do is run the line from the canister to the valve and that should be it.

though I can't remember if the input to the solenoid is reversed.

 

That's what I as thinking. I'm going to look online about the wires going to each solenoid. I've also read that when swapping in an obd2 motor that the wire harness would be plug and play, so I would think the wires won't be any different.

At worst I could always buy an obd1 manifold.

 

Ok so I failed emissions today, no suprise since barely anything is going right in my life right now. Anyway, results:

25/25 Reading Allowed
HC 112 141
CO% 1.16 0.79 Fail
NO 1278 1026 Fail
RPM 2933 1500-3000
CO+CO2% 14.4 6.0min

50/15
HC 178 146 Fail
CO% 1.28 0.82 Fail
NO 2569 1134 Fail
RPM 1852 1500-3000
CO+CO2% 14.2 6.0min

So it failed basically everything. He said in the second test he was unsure if he could stay in 1st, but even then it still failed the first half so I'm not putting the blame on rpm. I guess first step I'm going to take is unbolt the BS exhaust the guy put on to see if what I thought could be an aftermarket cat could just be a resonator. If it is just a resonator, I know what the problem is. The exhaust doesn't sound loud or raspy so I was assuming it was a cat.

 

Update:

Bolted up a Bosal direct-fit cat a couple days ago after I found a stock midpipe at a junkyard, since the resonator (in fact was not a cat) was welded into the aftermarket midpipe. Yesterday, the distributor decided to come loose as I had just started out of the driveway on the way to work. Apparently it was missing two bolts and the one securing it came loose. So, I put a zip-tie through one hole and tightened the bolt down when I didn't hear any bad noises or anything. Got a couple bolts at home depot after work and this morning went by a machinist friends house and he helped me set the timing to stock 16degrees. Then I drove around for a bit trying to make sure I got the cat nice and hot before getting emissions retested.

So, it failed again. Passed everything but NO. I don't have the numbers because the guy was nice enough to give me another free test if I can make it back by the next week or so.
25/25 test
NO increased to 18xx
50/15
NO might have dropped a tad, but still in 18xx range.

What do I do now? I'm going to go ahead and get a new O2 sensor, but I'm not sure if it's bad. My mpg is a mixed ~29.7, normal driving not babying or driving hard all the time. I might as well get new plugs but they don't look that bad. Could the evap purge not being hooked up throw it off that much?

 

WHAT CAUSES HIGH NO?
Nitrous Oxide or NO is created when an engine's combustion chamber temperature reaches over 2500F. Vehicle manufacturers have designed several systems, which when working properly, lower nitrous oxide emissions. Below are common failures which may cause your car, truck, van, suv, or motorhome to produce high high nitrous oxide.

1. Lean Fuel Mixture - Lean fuel mixtures cause high NOx. A lean fuel mixture exists when less fuel then required is delivered to the combustion chambers or when more air then necessary is added to the fuel. In either case the lack of gasoline needed to cool the combustion chambers down is not present. Combustion temperatures increase causing high nitrous oxide emissions. A lean fuel condition may be due to a vacuum leak/s and/or defective fuel control components, such as the Air Flow Meter, Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor, and O2 sensors.
Read more about the Oxygen Sensor

3. Defective Catalytic Converter (CAT) Some vehicle manufactures have designed their cars to operate without EGR valves. Non-EGR equipped vehicles rely heavily on the Catalytic Converter to assist in the reduction of NO. These vehicles have tendencies to develop CAT problems sooner then those which are equipped. If you own a non-EGR equipped vehicle, and have failed the emissions test for high NOx, pay close attention to the Catalytic Converter.

4. High Engine Mileage - Over an engine's lifetime, carbon build-up develops in the engine's combustion chambers. The more miles on your engine, the more carbon build-up on the pistons, cylinder heads and valves. Carbon build-up decreases the available space for the air/fuel mixture to combust, and causes higher cylinder compression. High compression results in high temperatures and high NOx. Keep in mind this problem is usually seen in vehicles with over 150,000 miles which have been poorly maintained. The solution to this problem is called De-Carbonizing. It usually costs around two labor hours at a smog check repair station. It will remove a good amount of carbon out of an engine. This will increase combustion space, lower compression and lower NOx.

5. Engine Overheating - Inadequate engine cooling can will high NOx. If your vehicle's cooling system is not working efficiently, (i.e. bad radiator, thermostat, hoses) high NOx will be created. Remember high NOx nitrous oxide is created when an engine's combustion chamber temperatures reach over 2500F. You will want to make sure your vehicle's cooling system is working properly, and your vehicle's temperature gauge is always indicating normal.

 

Yea I read most of that before. I just ordered a new o2 sensor and some plugs just for the hell of it. I was thinking about sea foaming it too, guess that may be a good idea.

 

set your timing to 14 degrees. Allows the motor to run cooler. I failed my first test while I was bar'ing my hatch only failed on the nox side.retarded timing 2 degrees passed without a hitch.

GA must be pretty lenient on smog. in cali you would have failed for having the wrong evap solenoid.
I know I did.

 

I was also thinking about doing that. Yea GA isn't too bad about emissions. Actually only a handful of counties around Atlanta have to worry about them. They have never visually checked the car. Basically if obd2 and you read ready then you'll pass, and as long as you pass the sniffer for obd1 you're good.

I live about 5 miles from the edge of the emissions testing counties.

 

OK so I seemed to of somehow caused another problem. Or maybe it's just another unrelated problem. Anyway, since I jumped the connector my car doesn't want to start easily any more, as in I have to jump it basically every time I have the car shut off for a few minutes.
Is there anything I could have done or is either my battery and/or my alternator deciding to go out as well? It started fine yesterday to go to my machinist friends house, but after I jumped the connector and before adjusting it has needed to be jumped nearly every time.

 

maybe battery.

 

I finally passed emissions. I'll post the numbers later. The last step I did was replace seafoam it, replace the o2 sensor and spark plugs (they weren't bad but only $8.xx) , and retard the **** out of it. The car didn't really idle well or like the retardation Lol, but I advanced it right after the test back to where it was. Maybe the o2 sensor and seafoam helped enough that it didn't need to be retarded but I wanted to give it that little extra effort.

 

Ok so now that midterm week is over I thought I would post my passing numbers.

25/25 Reading Allowed
HC 0 141
CO .02 .79
NO 636 1026
CO+CO2 15.0 6.0min

50/15
HC 0 146
CO .02 .82
NO 664 1134
CO+CO2 15.0 6.0min

Here's a pic of the bosal catalytic converter. I went with the Bosal because I know they make quality parts and it was ~$105 or so off rockauto.

 

Does anyone have any suggestions on what i can cap that sensor with??

 

Just go to the parts store they sell little rubber nipples to cap them, they come in different colors too.

 

Sweeet! Thanks👏🙌