A guy I know built a proper race engine and now has to sell it with basically 3 passes on it. I'd love to throw it in my ef but I want to be able to run my car more than just at the track. It was tuned on 20 psi and race gas. If I TOTALLY dial back the psi and run 93, is it even possible to drive it somewhat regularly with any dependability?

 

No where near enough info IMO. What's been done to the bottom end? What about the valvetrain? It'd be interesting to say the least.

 

85 mm golden eagle sleeved block, brian crowler h beam rods, manley pistons, ACL bearings, billet crank gurtle, b16 head ported polished, brian crowler retainers, skunk2 pro1 cams, ferrara valves, skunk2 cam gears.

 

bdl 72mm throttle body, edelbrock intake manifold, exedy twin disc, 1000cc injectors, walboro 255 intake feeding bousch044 aeromotive stainless lines, fuel lab regulator, golden fuel rail, garret gt3582r, bwr ramhorn, tial wastegate with dumptube and downpipe.

 

I'd buy it then just get a shell. I wouldn't want to worried about all the wear on these parts from driving it everyday. Also ppl love stealing Hondas and would have an eye out for the one sneezing around town everyday.

 

I hear what you're saying but I'm not trying to have a track dedicated car. Though he's selling it for a fraction of what it cost to build, I don't have money just to have a toy that I can only use once a month. I wasn't even thinking of a swap but he offered it and now I'm just trying to see if it's even possible to run an engine like that at some low psi and get a decent life out of it if I only turn up the boost a few times a month.

 

He's got the right parts, it's gonna depend on the tune 110%. Should be fine if you have it tuned properly for low and high boost.

 

Yes it can be done. A friend of mine drove his 700hp hatch 3-4 times a week. What Burnoutboy said is absolutely correct, your tune is crucial.

 

I know these types of these types of questions are difficult to answer over the internet with limited information but right now I have a stock b16 that will run for years to come. Lets say I switch to a much smaller turbo and run it 3-4 times a week (or maybe even daily it) on a VERY conservative tune. What kind of life do you think I could expect?

Maybe to frame my question better, I've read that titanium components in valve trains have very limited lifes, like 10k miles or something like that before they need to be rebuilt. If that's the case with a motor like this, then I just can't afford to swap it. But if its at all realistic to get a few years out of it on a conservative tune, then I would seriously consider buying it.

 

im not too knowledgable on titanium components but from what ive read the problem with titanium retainers that are not a snap fit with the springs is that the little bit of movement causes a lot of wear on them and can potentially break them. rocketmotorsports designed a 2nd gen set that snap fit so they last longer.

the problem with titanium is they machine harden over time, which causes deformation.

honestly though, dial back the boost and tune and you could daily it. it wouldnt ve 650hp but do you really need that much?


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Mine isnt a daily, but my wife took it to the grocery store last week. It gets driven to work every now and then also. I run on nothing but c16.

 

I have a fairly similar setup and I DD drove my setup all last year (only car on the road).

Few things, I only made 450whp tuned on 91 octane pump gas, but when DD its all about your foot. You could de-tune for 91 or 94 and be fine. Just get a safe tune and don't push the limits. Set a boost cut, lean cut, overheat cut, etc etc to make it friendly.

The pro1s idle lumpy, and can be a pain sometimes listening too in traffic.

Turbo manifold and exhaust components like to resonate and vibrate at certain RPMS. My top mount setup has a harmonic vibration at 3000rpm, which is a bitch because with a b16a tranny I can only do 80kmh or 100kmh and everyone loves to do 90kmh up here in Canada. If I do 90 and vibrate, my welds will and have cracked. I know for a fact its my manifold, and being top mount doesn't help.

Wear on your clutch is not ideal, be ready to replace it every couple years depending how much u drive.

I have s2 pro Ti retainers, and Pro1s, you will be doing a valve lash adjustment once a month depending how much you drive.

Oil change every 2000km (IMO, that's what I do, may be overkill but whatever)

Other than that...its great! This year I am not DDing it anymore, but I still could if I need to. Reason for no longer DDing it is simply whats stated above...no point wearing out all my components etc etc to just go get groceries and useless trips here and there.

 

If the wife didnt drive it to get groceries it wouldnt get driven at all. Ive been in Afghanistan for the last 8 months. Grocery store is 2 miles from the house.