Everything checks out, spark, fuel, ecu good, no CEL. Only things I can think left are timing and compression. I cant even get a cough or sputter out of car. timing belt is a bit loose, it is possible it jumped a tooth. This is my first time messing with the timing on these cars so I wanted to get your guys advice. The lower two marks are missing on my lower timing belt cover, is the best way to look at it directly above the first (upper) notch ??


Is this right ??? :





Does the cam gear look like it needs to go CCW a notch or two ??? Its very hard lining it up perfect to the head with the engine in the car



If its right, thats one more thing I can check off my list. So now ive got Spark, fuel, timing, the only thing left causing no start could be compression ??? Ive got a compression checker here that I am going to use after I dump the gasoline soaked oil from cranking and cranking with no start. $20 of oil wasted, essentially a 0 mile oil change. This fuc**ing car !

 

Even with bad timing it should start. Check the wiring. It could be really easy to have something not plugged in. Check that compression. It's easy. Other than that, you might have vacuum line issues?

 

Not sure if you checked, but make sure the ignition rotor screw didn't pop out. It happened to me, and I ended up re-timing cause I thought the belt jumped. . . .

 

Everything plugged in, no CEL, no ECU blinks except one quick one at "ON" position. vac lines are all good , ive been over the lines 100 times in search of my idle problem which I narrowed down to sticking throttle body.

Just installed the dizzy, all screws were rock solid tight as hell.

 

Cylinder 1 = 120 psi

cylinder 2 = 20 psi

cylinder 3 = barely got reading , 10 psi

cylinder 4 = 20 psi


A simply throttle body cleaning REALLY COULD HAVE BLOWN MY MOTOR ???

Also, despite not having fuel injectors hooked up when I crank it fuel is sloshing and spitting out of cylinder #1.

 

You have multiple threads all related to the same problem. This makes it difficult to back track your problem(s) so I'm going to ask as if this is the first time I read this because I don't feel like searching for your issue...

Spark/Fuel/Compression, you state you have all but compression. You state you only cleaned out the throttle body. Did you do ANYTHING else at all to your engine since the last time it ran? Or did you literally ONLY touch the throttle body? IF you didn't touch anything else, then I hate to say that somehow you bent some valves or blew the head gasket. I don't see how that would be possible though, at least not without messing with something else. I have an idea of what may have happened but it's dependent on whatever else you did to the car.

EDIT: You sure you had the compression gauge fully seated in those last three cylinders?

 

car was running fine. had slight bogging after a hard turn, so figured what the hell I should inspect my distributor cap and rotor. Removed them, cleaned up , put back on. Started her up, she ran fine. Then decided to clean throttle body,had it running while spraying choke cleaner, it would bog a little from the spray. Shut it off, gave it one more good spray in the upper injector hole. Reinstalled injector, tried to start, nothing. Cranked and cranked and cranked, realised it was flooded, pulled plugs, cleaned plugs, tried starting, nothing, pulled plugs again, cleaned, and then changed oil. Tried starting, nothing. decided to check for spark, while doing this I grounded the wrong terminal on starter and I believe blew out my distributer. rode bike 26 miles to get dizzy, replaced that, now had spark. Tried starting , nothing, pull some hair out , curse at car. tried starting with dizzy advance 90% of the way, no start, try starting with dizzy retard 90% of the way, tried to start, nothing. pull valve cover and inspect timing belt, a little loose but not horrible, verified timing was correct, after spending an hour doing this I concluded it was close enough if not spot on. So then changed oil again, ran pressure test, and here we are..

put oil in spark plug holes, no difference. Test was done twice, each time I didnt press gas pedal to floor. Notice that even with injectors unplugged cyl 1 is filling with gas and making a nice gas geiser (sp?) while doing comp test. Scratch head wondering where all this gas is coming from since injectors have been unplugged. figure there may be a huge puddle of gas in intake manifold, remove EACV , sop up some gas, remove intake temp sensor, little gas, but no puddles. came in here and posted to you guys..

That about covers everythng done in last few days.

 

Check you fuses but your compression does indicate burnt valves or even piston rings.

 

Checked all fuses, with a meter, twice.

Waking up early to finish this damn job. Looks like I may need to take my chances with a junkyard D15B2 head. Need to keep this repair cheap and be back on the road soon. Other than a compression check, and looking for oil bubbles around the valves, is there anyway to know a head is shot BEFORE pulling it ? If I hydrolocked this thing I wouldnt be able to turn it by hand, right ?? Still completely stumped on the cylinder one filling with gas with injectors unplugged. Could the aux injector, if not 100% seated cause this ??

 

Ok guys, this may be a good sign, or not. but I took my entire throttle body off and inspected it, noticed that my aux injector was not seated properly. That may have been what was causing my cyl 1 to fill with gas. Hopefully thats what was causing my cyl to fill even with the injectors disconnected.

Even so, ive still got the low compression to deal with. Going to pull valve cover and assess that after I charge battery and try cranking it.

 

If you have the valve cover off, check your valve lash. I know you didn't touch it but just to rule them out, make sure they aren't causing your valves to be stuck open. This would cause a low to zero compression reading (I've seen it first hand).

 

was just able to get 150+ PSI on #4 cylinder. It took about ten revolutions to get this number. that was with the throttle closed. does this mean I havent blown my engine ???

Before doing this test, first time I cranked it I think I got a little cough on the 2nd revolution, then nothing

 

You need to do it with the throttle open. And you need to get all four cylinders up to at least 140psi (I believe that's the minimum spec call out in the FSM).

 

Got her running !!!!!! A local honda mech came over, took plugs out , heated them up with a torch, reinstalled. floored it, and cranked and cranked. I stood there thinking, "Ive tried that the last four days", until it started to catch. well after another set of plugs and 20 minutes of cranking we got her running !!!!! My problem was not knowing for sure if honda had built the "flood clear" mode into the OBD0 cars, well I think they did, because with the pedal floored we got it started.

So started it, clouded out the entire neighborhood, let run for twenty minutes. Shut her down, tried starting again, and got no start. This time I floored it and cranked a bit longer.

Atleast now I know it can be started !!!!! I still think its got issues like timing a little off and he said the main injector may be giving a bit too much fuel. Im going to replace the plugs tomorrow with BCPR6E-11 NGK's, change oil AGAIN, and replace the main injector with a junkyard one from a car with significantly less miles.

Thanks so much guys for all the help, im still not out of the woods but we can really check off some things on the list, mainly blown motor.

Oh and the honda mechanic didnt want to follow me to ATM so he said it was on the house, what an awesome guy !!!

 

Cool guy!! Lol glad you made progress

 

Was able to get her started with new plugs this morning, the ones it calls for underneath my hood NGK B something... Got her running, but running like ****. have smoke and plenty of black soot from exhaust. tried moving the dizzy , didnt seem to make any differance. I took a video for you guys. she eventually died, and I pulled cyl 1's plug and it looks like this :




Video :

 

found a bad o ring on main injector !!! riding bike 12 miles now to junkyard to grab another one. or can I just match up o ring at hardware store ??? I know hardware o ring is not ideal but I really dont want to ride 26 miles again !

 

It's a unique O-ring, specifically for fuel related components. Don't use a regular O-ring.

If you can get it running again, let it warm up and do another compression test. Make sure to unplug the distributor at the connectors so that you don't do any damage to it (you can even unplug the injectors or even the ECU itself so that no fuel is sent through while cranking). See what the results are under correct conditions this time around.

 

Was able to pull o ring from an old injector. installed it, she started on the second cranks !!!!! WOOHOO problem solved. a o-ring that I got for free cost me a distributer, ten quarts of oil, a set of spark plugs, a ebay dizzy coil, a week of my time, a job, and who knows what else.

Lesson learned, dont overlook the small stuff (literally), and if car doesnt run after you worked on it, only re-check the things you worked on before you go messing with other stuff.

 

I feel like ive reached the peak of mount everest after getting this back to normal !!! Ive put so much time and effort into this, it was tantamount to climbing a mountain. This explains why i kept flooding engine even with injectors unplugged !!! I should have known !!!