Hi Guys-

I was trying to fill the system because I was thinking maybe it's low on R143a, while I was filling the system filler gauge was showing that system is already full(Warning Zone).

But if I run the A/C it blows Hot air, if I touch the compressor line, they aren't cold, so it means compressor isn't engaging, right?

How can I troubleshoot and fix this? Because A/C used to work fine~2 years ago but not any more? Any help, advice and guidance would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks again for helping out.

 

You can look to see if the compressor is engaging by looking at it. You will see the end of the ac compressor spin when it engages...if not it will be still. Just look.

Also, you need to check for continuity at the ac pressure switch. There should be continuity if you have an amount of refrigerant that will allow the ac compressor to turn on. If there is no continuity then you either have too much or you don't have enough.

 

Thanks 'holmes.

AC compressor is definitely spinning and engaging.

How to check for the AC pressure switch? What possible next steps for troubleshooting?

If it helps, both fan do run when I turn the AC on.

 

Check the blend door adjustment....and also the **** as the shaft breaks pretty often.

When you turn the **** to "cold" the one cable moves one end of the blend door arm. Off the other end of that arm, another cable goes to the heater control valve.

To see the blend door arm on the pass side, there is a small cover that has a plastic push pin holding it....about where the "hump" meets the center console....remove that cover and you will see it......turn the **** from hot to cold and be sure it is moving all the way. Next do the same turning of the **** but this time check for full movement at the heater control valve.

 

If I move the temperature ****, heater core valve is definitely moving.

Anyway I can see a picture of the blend door so that I can locate and see it?

Thanks in advance for the help.

 

You won't see the door you will see the lever that moves the door inside the "AC box" and the two cables.

Don't have a good picture and the 95 isn't home right now. From the pass seat, look at the area where the "center hump" and the center console meet - kind of from the floor looking up under the dash. You should see a black plastic "shield/cover" with a "push pin" thru it. Pull the push pin and wiggle (tech term there ) the cover off.

From there, while looking at the bottom side of the "AC box" move the **** from hot to cold and you will see the lever/arm move and see the two cables attached to it.

Easy thing to do to test this....remove the cable from the heater control valve and manually close it....start the car and see what you have. If the air is still "warm/hot" - feel the hose before and after the valve to be sure it did not fail internally.....meaning the lever on the valve moves but it is not stopping the cooland from flowing.

 

I believe I have the same problem... Same symptoms...
To recap:

the AC in my 1997 Honda Accord LX 2.2L Auto isn’t working.
When I turn on the AC in the car, it blows hot air, nice and hard.
Inspecting the engine bay, I can see the AC compressor, AC Fan & Coolant Fan all turn on when the AC is turned on inside the car. If I turn the AC back off, they all turn off as they should.
I tried one of those AutoZone/Advanced Auto “AC PRO” refridgerant cooling kits.
According to the gauge, the AC is filled where it should be and at the right pressure.

So I guess my question is where do I look next? The compressor is kicking on and working, the line is pressurized, so now what?

I did tap into the back of someone a while back and I replaced the radiator.
I’m thinking maybe the condenser needs to be replaced?
But if its holding pressure and not leaking the refrigerant, that means it’s good, right?

I’ve done some searching, but I have yet to find a good go to guide for problemsolving it.
I felt the cooling lines going into the firewall, and one of them is hot, and the other one is kinda cool, but in no way cold.



Do I need to test both ports on the AC system(as I’ve only tested one). I would assume they would both be under pressure if one is, right?
I’m looking for the next step in diagnosing where the problem is. What do I check next?


As I recall, it will remove humidity out of the air, but doesn’t cool the car. The temperature is slightly less than the heater side.

 

Alright, going to look at it, but would greatly appreciate a pict. Don't wanna break anything

Lately, I have been breaking more stuff than fixing

 

Where in VA are you? Maybe it's something in our water... lol

 

Lol I am in NoVA area, not too far from you. Maybe it's PW service authority water

 

When the compressor is compressing with adequate freon, one line will be very hot to the touch and the return will be cold. It is really best to check the system with gages on both the high pressure compressed line and also the low pressure return line, but without gages, you already know you have a problem if the high pressure compressed line is not very hot.
You didn't mention anything about a noisy compressor,,, is it rattling like a can of rocks?
If the compressor clutch is spinning, the compressor is quiet, both fans are running, one line is NOT hot, one line is NOT cold, I would think that the expansion valve or orifice tube is not operating properly.
AC systems themselves are very simple. All the wiring and safety stuff gets complicated. Compressing freon heats it up very hot,,, the valve or tube releases it through a very small hole causing the freon to turn to gas where it drops temperature to almost freezing, your blower blows air through the coils and you get cold air inside.