Well it came time to install the DSM 450's tonite. So I pop off the fuel rail on my 89 CRX and get to it. I pull out the old factory injectors and there are little filter like things on the end of the injector that attaches to the rail. And it seems that one of these little filter things had come loose over the course of the life of the car and lodged itself in the fuel rail. I didn't even know it was in there but my car did bog down a little bit under WOT so that might explain it. So I pull all of these little gay pieces of plastic out, including the one that is lodged in the fuel rail all smashed up and impeding flow and such. Next I put the DSM injectors into the rail and I attach the electrical clips to them. I pull the injector seals out of the manifold and ream them out a tiny bit with a pocket knife. Now im ready to bolt the fuel rail down. The injectors are very reluctant to go into the manifold, so i bust out a piece of wood and a hammer to help them in by pounding on the fuel rail. During the course of the pounding, somehow one of the pintle caps breaks off of on of the injectors. And it seems that half of that pintle cap has somehow fallen into the injector hole and found a new home inside my engine. The injectors finnaly seat themself well enough that I can now start tightening down the fuel rail nuts. As I'm tightening I'm thinking don't tighten too much, I have heard of a lot of people tightening down the nuts too much and snapping the bolts. I am almost done tightening and I'm on the center bolt. Don't overtighten...don't overtighten...don't overtighten...snap....I overtightened. Oh well, I still got 2 more nuts holding the fuel rail on. And a piece pintle cap sitting inside my engine. I'm just gonna start my car and forget about the pintle cap when I get done installing my turbo. I'm thinking it will instantly melt and be no harm. Hopefully I'm right, because there's no way in hell I'm pulling the intake manifold and possibly the head off to get that damn thing. Anyways, If you ever have a bad time installing a part, think of me and these gay injectors.

Later,
Derek


[Modified by DJ0820, 3:46 AM 10/25/2002]

 

jerry rigging 101, you get an A+

If you need help with the process, dont be afraid to use the search button or ask us for help.


[Modified by GudeH23a, 10:55 PM 10/24/2002]

 

i dont think the plastic will melt right away... just run the car for a sec with no manifold. you dont want melted plastic hitting your turbine wheel!!

 

I would suggest you forego the turbo and maybe buy some books on automotive mechanics...

 

why didn't you bore the seals enough so they would fit better? I did it on mine and the 450s fit easily and just like stock. Oh well, at least they're in there, right?

 

"I would suggest you forego the turbo and maybe buy some books on automotive mechanics..."

Because of a little bad luck? Technically there was nothing really wrong with what i did. besides that pintle cap in my engine...

Later,
Derek

 

Using a hammer to install injectors is probably not the best method. You should be fine, but you should take your time when working on your car to make sure everything fits as it should before you break something that will cost even more money.

 

And don't forget the hammer and wood, and the fact that you didn't bore out the seals enough, and that you broke the stud (what's the torque spec on that stud, BTW?), and that you think that thermo plastic, which is designed to go 400,000+ miles sitting right next to the combustion chamber without melting, is actually going to just vaporize upon startup. I'll tell you what's going to happen to that little piece of plastic... it's not going to melt. It's not going to burn. ****, it's not even going to get soft. It's going to bang around in their for a bit, and if it's small enough to fit between the valve and the seat, and if doesn't get stuck on it's way out, it's going to hit your turbo, and if it doesn't break or bend a turbine blade, it's definetly NOT going to make it through, locking the turbo up. If the turbo is spooled up when it hits, something is going to give, most likely the bearings due to the sideload that they'll experience when that plastic gets wedged between the turbine wheel and the housing.

You're building a high performance motor. When building said motor, you simply CANNOT use junkyard mechanics. You can't beat **** with a block of wood, you can't NOT use a torque wrench on anything, and if you break something, you MUST fix it before proceeding. If something drops into the engine, no matter how small, you MUST retrieve it without damaging the motor... even if that means taking the head off. Hey, **** happens; chalk it up as experience and move on.

Get away from that "**** it... good enough" ethic and you'll make some great power without much trouble. If you don't, be prepared to spend alot of time staring at your car on jackstands.


[Modified by House of Boost, 4:43 AM 10/25/2002]

 

same thing happens to old nissan injectors next time use rags to cover up open holes.

 

AMEN!

Seriously, you deserve this problem, if the first thing you think of when something doesn't fit is "hit it with a block of wood". Think of it as a learning experience

 

Heya.. about to install 550s in my rail.. what IS the torque for those bolts?

 

hey man dont worry about torque specs, just keep tightening and think in your head about not breaking it and everythin will be fine

 

Just torque those bolts that hold the fuel rail as hard as you can using your wrist.. Those things break easily.

 

Damn you guys! I'm thinking of pulling my intake manifold off now. Not only will I get that wretched piece of plastic, but it will make installing my oil feed line much easier. And people, this is not a high performance motor. It is a SOHC D15B2 DX motor, so you can see why I don't really care about it. I also have a D16A6 engine and transmission sitting right next to my car right now. Maybe I will just install that damn thing. AHHHH, decisions decisions! This car is more a time pit than a money pit.

Later,
Derek

 

Wow, Think------Act.... Listen, since you beat your injectors in with a hammer there going to be leaking like a **** when you start your engine, if you hammer them down to much the little o rings will be dystroyed. Take a couple hours, take your mani off and get that peice of plastic out or its gonna fuc a cylinder, go and get a new stud and new o rings and do it right. use https://honda-tech.com/zerosearch

 

that was one of the stupidest things i've read since being here

 

OK, first of all this is DJ0820 speaking here, I couldn't log out of this name for some reason.

"since you beat your injectors in with a hammer there going to be leaking like a **** when you start your engine, if you hammer them down to much the little o rings will be dystroyed. "

Wrong, they are fine. I looked at them. And the hammer and wood were just for tapping (not like full swings) the rail and the injectors down so u could get the nuts threaded. How do you get pistons into a cylinder when building a motor, oh yeah thats right a hammer and a piece of wood. I probably should have reamed out the O-rings a little more but oh well, they are in there now. And legendboy, you are the last person that should tell me to use the search function. Couldn't figure out how to run your coolant lines? I'm sure thats never been discussed, lets make a new post, ***. https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=314571 Yep head home buddy.

Later,
Derek

 

Ya, at least I ask for help when I'm not sure the best way to do something! Your the one who was going to

lol

 

6 to 9 ft lbs.

DJ0820- I know it's only a D15, but you *are* turbocharging it... Yes, you have a spare motor, and I envy you because of that, BUT... nit picking the smallest details is a good practice to get into because when you eventually DO get around to boosting a $8000 motor, you *know* it's going to work. This wrenching ethic seperates us ASE mechanics from you backyard mechanics, as well as seperating the guys that consistantly run low 10's in street trim from the guys that are struggling to break into the 14's... There's nothing wrong with not being ASE or running low 15's, but you should at least know sage advice when you hear it. Good luck, and remember- if your head bolts have a spiral twist to their shanks, you have to replace them.

 

oh hell, dont get me started on nissan injectors.

 

Try to use a 1/4 drive ratchet when tightening down those small nuts. Using a 3/8 drive ratchet will add torque causing you to snap them off. Take your time guys.

 

ah...they got u too! wishing i had stock top feeds instead of side feeds.