Car: 1994 Honda Accord EX Suddan

Some ***-hats tried to steal my car and failed miserably....Unfortunately, I'm too poor to take my car to a professional. I'm pretty good at following directions on installing car parts and such, my problem is, I have no idea what parts I need.

I tried googling around but without knowing exactly what I'm looking for, its hard to get a solid answer as to what I need to fix my problem. Can you guys take a look at the picture of my ignition and tell me what parts I'd need to buy to fix this mess?

I know I need a new key and key cylinder but I have no idea what those two loose wires are supposed to connect to

 

Looks like you'll need the entire tumbler/ignition assembly and that loom.

 

I'm blown away they got that deep into the column and still did not drive the car off.
Clowns.


#2 is your key cylinder/tumbler, they managed to remove the tumbler but someone in the process messed up some wiring which I am not sure if it is part of #6.
I want to say the green connector is for the key chime, but since the clyinder is gone it has nowhere to plug into. If the other plug is a T shaped 3wire connector I believe that connects into the dash/column harness.

Do you have all the broken/removed piece from your damaged column?

FWIW, Honda sells part #2
35100-SV4-A02 LOCK ASSY., STEERING List=210.86 Majestics price=145.49

RockAuto also has cylinder w/harness or a bit cheaper 115-127.

If you just need the key cylinder you maybe able to find one cheaper.

 

Just me but I think the other one (not the green connector) is the key light? Is there a bulb in the black piece.

 

SWEET! Thanks for the replies! This definitely gets me started on trying to get this fixed. You guys are the best!

@Mad Mike - For some weird reason they took most of the broken pieces....except for the plastic housing around it. Losers also took my stereo face plate but left the stereo, speakers, amp, and subwoofer....who does that!??!?!

@Lost Again - Nope, there's no light there....I have no idea what that connects to. It looks like 1/2 of a circuit board.

 

They plan on coming back.
If you can pull your head unit and sub I would until you can get the ignition back together. Dunno why they would bother with taking the cylinder, unless they were planning making a dummy key to work, but that makes no sense, all they needed was a flat head screwdriver to unlock and turn the ignition now, by the way you can do the same if you need to start/move your car. Those guys are a special kind of a loser, they are loosers.

The biggest PITA in replacing the cylinder will be removing the torque to yield bolts. #3 in the above diagram, when installed at the factory the hex portion shears off when the bolt reaches the correct torque spec. This leaves a rivet looking head, you will need a screw extractor that self taps(such as a Grabit) to remove.

If you are lucky they may be loose and may be able to spin them out by hand.
That actually may be the key light, I thought it was an L.E.D. of sorts.

 

That green plug does look like the key light. The other hanging harness is prob for the key alarm. As for the break-away bolts, you might be able to use a stripped bolt removal socket or a pair of vice grips. You could also use a hacksaw or a cutoff wheel and cut a slot into the head of the bolts so you can use a flathead screwdriver to remove them. All depends on how much room you have to access the bolts.

 

@Mad Mike - Yep, that's the first thing I did...pulled out anything that was of value....darn system is probably worth more than the car hahaha.

@Everyone else - Thanks again for all the help. I think I have enough info to get started. I just ordered the parts and I can google the rest of my way through. Best community ever!!!

 

For that year if you get an aftermarket ignition switch it comes with everything as one part. Part number la8203 at oreilly auto parts if its an automatic.

 

I replaced one last week, actually I thought your picture was the picture of the one I replaced. Obviously, this was some beginners because the wires are in the picture for them to hot wire the car.

I replaced it with this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/310697208417...84.m1423.l2649

Make sure you get one with the key. If you can, go to your local pull-n-save lot and like my pull-n-save lot, they still have the key in the ignitions.

You will need a punch tool to get the two headless bolts off the steering column (#3 in Mad Mike's post), like this:

http://www.harborfreight.com/8-piece...set-93424.html

Also, don't know if your car is a manual or automatic, but make sure you get the same one.

Everything else is self-explanatory.

Let us know how it goes.

 

Dam, I would pull your amp and stuff, in case they come back...... be careful what you say as they could be on H-T also..... I would add a fuel pump kill switch in a hidden spot also. ******* thieves, once again

 

X2. I think it's time for you to get an alarm system, or at least a kill switch in a weird area only you know about.
Or you could find a wild badger and let it sleep in your car whenever you're not in it. However, I do not recommend this option for obvious reasons.

 

If they were trying to hotwire the car the are complete muppets. It's an ignition switch not too mysterious of a device.

hoy128 before an alarm which may or may not prevent theft. Purchase an Autolock and a Club. Use the club between the hand brake and shifter, use the Autolock on the brake pedal.

In one of my vehicles I actually have a couple of '70s GM horns hooked up to a commonly used switch. The horns are inside the cab so if someone is rooting around in the car and touch said switch, they will find themselves being deafened.