98 clicked and wouldn't start. New battery, and now no power to dash
I was having problems getting the car to start (clicking like not enough electric to turn over the starter) Popped the clutch and got it started. Went home and cleaned all the battery contacts started/stopped it a few times. Then it started to click again, with no start.
I figured the battery was shot and replaced it. When trying to start the car it clicked just a few times and now there is no electric on the dash and nothing when it tries to start. Oddly enough the open door beep still works.
Is there a fuse that blew somewhere? It seems the new batter immediatly fried something.
Thanks for any input.
I figured the battery was shot and replaced it. When trying to start the car it clicked just a few times and now there is no electric on the dash and nothing when it tries to start. Oddly enough the open door beep still works.
Is there a fuse that blew somewhere? It seems the new batter immediatly fried something.
Thanks for any input.
Check battery fuse under hood? Folks at advanced got my boy the wrong battery for his integra, and he hooked pos to neg, and blew the fuse.
Let me guess.....he bought a Size 51 instead of a 51-R where the positive (+) and (-) are reversed. ALWAYS double-check car parts prior to install. A car battery is one of them.
Cleaned and checked battery ground connection to the chassis.
Checked all fuses under the hood and under the dash, all is good.
Is there another fuse for the alternator? Like a fusible link?
The headlights don't work now, the dash has no power now, nothing. It's dead.
There has to be an electric connection somewhere that isn't working now after putting this new battery in and trying to start it.
Last edited by flood; Jul 12, 2013 at 06:00 AM.
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yeaa, well he bought the right battery, but the dude that works there gave him the wrong battery. he still at fault because he didnt check it. OP what happened to the car in the first place?check the battery fuse. just because it dont look blown, it can still be bad. that fuse is like a dollar or 2, so get a known good one, pop it in, and see what happens.
I think you mean the 80A hood power fuse, which is the one that typically blows when the battery terminals are reversed.
The power fuse should be tested before replacing. The test is very easy.
just because it dont look blown, it can still be bad. that fuse is like a dollar or 2, so get a known good one, pop it in, and see what happens.
I have a multimeter. I just tested the ignition switch using this:
http://s267.photobucket.com/user/Ron...tml?sort=3&o=6
It checked out fine in all positions (I II & III).
I have checked the 80A fuse as well it seems fine. (fuse test via multimeter. Continuity)
The battery was not put in with reverse polarity.
http://s267.photobucket.com/user/Ron...tml?sort=3&o=6
It checked out fine in all positions (I II & III).
I have checked the 80A fuse as well it seems fine. (fuse test via multimeter. Continuity)
The battery was not put in with reverse polarity.
What voltage do you measure across the two battery posts?
What is the ohm reading between the negative battery post and the transmission?
Do the headlights or hazard lights work?
What is the ohm reading between the negative battery post and the transmission?
Do the headlights or hazard lights work?
Battery: 12.56v
Headlights / Hazards: do not work.
Ohms from neg term to transmission: On the 2000 setting it was 700-750
Headlights / Hazards: do not work.
Ohms from neg term to transmission: On the 2000 setting it was 700-750
Last edited by flood; Jul 12, 2013 at 02:05 PM. Reason: Update to starter issue / formatting
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