99 accord, no problems yet!
Ok so hello, first post here.
I have a '99 accord lx sedan, Five speed, f23a1, great car, overall in love with it.
But i'm just a little worried. It's got 185k and i bought it at 177k and have put those 8k on it in the last two and a half months since i got it. Since i first got it a couple months ago, i had the check engine light come on. I forget the code, but i did an oil change and had my vtec solenoid filter cleaned up and it's not come back. However my maint req'd light has come on. I've done an oil change again and just need to reset it.
I don't drive my car too hard, i usually shift under 4 grand, and i've only had it at 5k shifting once. I've hit the rev limiter in neutral a couple times testing how far it would go but never hit it while driving.
My concerns though: It seems to be getting a little weaker, i know this is normal but i want to maintain maximum power.
I've put a short ram intake on it, and am trying to find headers for it.
But my questions are: How hard would it be to rebuild the motor myself with a rebuild kit? (I've never done anything like it before, just changed motor mounts, oil, starter, etc)
What can i do to maximize horsepower?
Also, i would like to know everything there is to know about the f23a1
I have a '99 accord lx sedan, Five speed, f23a1, great car, overall in love with it.
But i'm just a little worried. It's got 185k and i bought it at 177k and have put those 8k on it in the last two and a half months since i got it. Since i first got it a couple months ago, i had the check engine light come on. I forget the code, but i did an oil change and had my vtec solenoid filter cleaned up and it's not come back. However my maint req'd light has come on. I've done an oil change again and just need to reset it.
I don't drive my car too hard, i usually shift under 4 grand, and i've only had it at 5k shifting once. I've hit the rev limiter in neutral a couple times testing how far it would go but never hit it while driving.
My concerns though: It seems to be getting a little weaker, i know this is normal but i want to maintain maximum power.
I've put a short ram intake on it, and am trying to find headers for it.
But my questions are: How hard would it be to rebuild the motor myself with a rebuild kit? (I've never done anything like it before, just changed motor mounts, oil, starter, etc)
What can i do to maximize horsepower?
Also, i would like to know everything there is to know about the f23a1
How much horsepressures do you want to make?
https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/n-fi-afaccords-10-1-comp-turbo-f23-build-restoration-thread-3005902/
Sounds like you're off to a good start, search around here, 6thgenaccord, and other sites for more information. Research is your friend. Don't be mishako and ask a million questions that have already been answered in great detail. The F23A1 is a great engine, and responds better than most of the other F-series to modifications. AFAccord made some pretty good power naturally aspirated before his turbo build.
First things first though, inspect EVERYTHING on the car. Pull the valvecover off and inspect under there, as well as the timing belt. Brakes, suspension, lines, EVERYTHING. You may just be getting used to the car's power, which is reasonable considering it wasn't very powerful to begin with and has to lug around 3000lbs worth of family sedan.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/n-fi-afaccords-10-1-comp-turbo-f23-build-restoration-thread-3005902/
Sounds like you're off to a good start, search around here, 6thgenaccord, and other sites for more information. Research is your friend. Don't be mishako and ask a million questions that have already been answered in great detail. The F23A1 is a great engine, and responds better than most of the other F-series to modifications. AFAccord made some pretty good power naturally aspirated before his turbo build.
First things first though, inspect EVERYTHING on the car. Pull the valvecover off and inspect under there, as well as the timing belt. Brakes, suspension, lines, EVERYTHING. You may just be getting used to the car's power, which is reasonable considering it wasn't very powerful to begin with and has to lug around 3000lbs worth of family sedan.
There's everything you need to know about the F series block because NO ONE will be able to tell you everything. lol
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_F_engine
You probably lost some power with the intake, and really you won't be able to feel that much of difference with a full exhaust either. A rebuild isn't exactly too difficult if you are aware of how the engine works and how everything is assembled. A shop manual will be your best friend in that case. Your primary rebuild will consist of seals, main bearings, piston rings, and a decking/machining of the head and potentially the block. Mentioning "maximum horsepower" you could also install some more tensile parts like aluminum rods and forged pistons to increase the motors stability under high load (like boost).
As far as "maximum horsepower" goes boosting will be your only valid option. Like chrisnick said, AFAccord's build did yield decent numbers N/A but was also a built motor. You can push up to around 250whp on an F series block with stock components and boost. My F22B1 pushes 235whp/204wtq at 10psi of boost and scoots fairly well even for the heavier Accord chassis.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_F_engine
You probably lost some power with the intake, and really you won't be able to feel that much of difference with a full exhaust either. A rebuild isn't exactly too difficult if you are aware of how the engine works and how everything is assembled. A shop manual will be your best friend in that case. Your primary rebuild will consist of seals, main bearings, piston rings, and a decking/machining of the head and potentially the block. Mentioning "maximum horsepower" you could also install some more tensile parts like aluminum rods and forged pistons to increase the motors stability under high load (like boost).
As far as "maximum horsepower" goes boosting will be your only valid option. Like chrisnick said, AFAccord's build did yield decent numbers N/A but was also a built motor. You can push up to around 250whp on an F series block with stock components and boost. My F22B1 pushes 235whp/204wtq at 10psi of boost and scoots fairly well even for the heavier Accord chassis.
I think AFAccord made his best numbers prior to really going deep into the engine N/A. Pretty sure he laid down almost 160whp before adding a cam and playing with the intake manifold. For reference, bigpatel may have built the bottom end and did a little mild porting on his F22B1, but he still made some pretty respectable numbers. The VTEC heads seem to take better to N/A mods(of course, tuned) than the non-VTEC engines, prior to bumping compression and dropping in a cam.
Seeing this list below, skip the cam, H23 intake manifold and TB, and it's basically a bolt on car with some very mild head massaging. You'll have to dig a little bit more, but the F22B1's and F23A's make some fairly respectable numbers with bolt ons.
http://www.6thgenaccord.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=14707
http://www.6thgenaccord.com/forums/s...&postcount=105
Bigpatel is basically a stock(it has rods/pistons at a stock compression ratio) F22B1 with an F23A1 intake manifold. Pretty sure that was with an exhaust under 2.5" and a factory exhaust manifold. Tuning seems to be the key factor to making power with the VTEC heads.
Seeing this list below, skip the cam, H23 intake manifold and TB, and it's basically a bolt on car with some very mild head massaging. You'll have to dig a little bit more, but the F22B1's and F23A's make some fairly respectable numbers with bolt ons.
http://www.6thgenaccord.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=14707
http://www.6thgenaccord.com/forums/s...&postcount=105
Originally Posted by AFAccord
OLD Mods List
-Engine / Performance
Swapped a fully rebuilt F23A1 to replace the stock F23A4 with 116k miles.
Mild polished and milled F23 head
P61 ECU (92 GS-R) chipped and street tuned on eCtune by Joseph Davis
M2S4 5-speed transmission
Bisimoto Level 2 Camshaft[/b]
PSpec short shifter
AEM v1 cool air intake
Action 1KS Clutch
Evolution 9lb Flywheel
4-2-1 header with 2.5" collector mod
Custom 2.5" mandrel bent exhaust piping
Vibrant 2.5" UltraQuiet Resonator
Vibrant 2.5" Stealth Flat Black muffler
Energy Suspension front and rear motor mount inserts
Battery relocation to trunk
Alterstart 180amp alternator
H23 Intake Manifold - port matched to TB and runners, IABs removed
Skunk2 70mm Throttle body
JDM H22A Modified Fuel Rail
B18C1 Fuel Pressure Regulator
DIY F23 to H23 IM Adapter Plate
-Engine / Performance
Swapped a fully rebuilt F23A1 to replace the stock F23A4 with 116k miles.
Mild polished and milled F23 head
P61 ECU (92 GS-R) chipped and street tuned on eCtune by Joseph Davis
M2S4 5-speed transmission
Bisimoto Level 2 Camshaft[/b]
PSpec short shifter
AEM v1 cool air intake
Action 1KS Clutch
Evolution 9lb Flywheel
4-2-1 header with 2.5" collector mod
Custom 2.5" mandrel bent exhaust piping
Vibrant 2.5" UltraQuiet Resonator
Vibrant 2.5" Stealth Flat Black muffler
Energy Suspension front and rear motor mount inserts
Battery relocation to trunk
Alterstart 180amp alternator
H23 Intake Manifold - port matched to TB and runners, IABs removed
Skunk2 70mm Throttle body
JDM H22A Modified Fuel Rail
B18C1 Fuel Pressure Regulator
DIY F23 to H23 IM Adapter Plate
Last edited by chrisnick; Jul 2, 2013 at 09:53 AM.
I don't understand the logic of trying to soup up your car if you're not willing to rev it up. ??? Just wind it out a bit if you're looking for more performance, you won't hurt it. It's got vtec, yo.
@Chrisnick, i don't have too much money to be putting into it quite yet. I'm on a rather tight budget..
@brages, i don't drive with ac bo. Windows down, bass up.
I forgot to mention i have ~60lbs of audio gear in the trunk.
Also wind it out? I'm not understanding what you mean. Just rev higher before shifts? That's what i'm worried about is hurting it lol
@brages, i don't drive with ac bo. Windows down, bass up.
I forgot to mention i have ~60lbs of audio gear in the trunk.
Also wind it out? I'm not understanding what you mean. Just rev higher before shifts? That's what i'm worried about is hurting it lol
You would probably be happy with just cleaning the residue off the pistons and replacing all the gaskets with new ones. Or you could also replace the piston rings for extra insurance. But for the most part, you might be over worrying about problems. When I first got my 99 Accord, I thought it was a monster! After a few weeks it started feeling weaker as I got used to the power, same thing that's happening to you.
As for maximum power, a full swap or basic turbo setup are your best options. Those blocks are known to handle boost pretty well.
I have an H swap in my car and rarely smash the throttle anymore. Sometimes it's just nice to know your car is fully capable under the hood, even though you baby it
As for maximum power, a full swap or basic turbo setup are your best options. Those blocks are known to handle boost pretty well.
It's summertime, you're riding around with the A/C on, so it feels weaker.
I don't understand the logic of trying to soup up your car if you're not willing to rev it up. ??? Just wind it out a bit if you're looking for more performance, you won't hurt it. It's got vtec, yo.
I don't understand the logic of trying to soup up your car if you're not willing to rev it up. ??? Just wind it out a bit if you're looking for more performance, you won't hurt it. It's got vtec, yo.

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It's summertime, you're riding around with the A/C on, so it feels weaker.
I don't understand the logic of trying to soup up your car if you're not willing to rev it up. ??? Just wind it out a bit if you're looking for more performance, you won't hurt it. It's got vtec, yo.
I don't understand the logic of trying to soup up your car if you're not willing to rev it up. ??? Just wind it out a bit if you're looking for more performance, you won't hurt it. It's got vtec, yo.

I 100% agree with Bairdandrew77, its a nice feeling knowing you have the power. But it doesn't mean you need to constantly floor it everywhere. Heck I drive the speed limit everywhere I go, why? Because if I need/want to I could spank 90% of the little ricer's in my town, but I'm more respectful than that.
You would probably be happy with just cleaning the residue off the pistons and replacing all the gaskets with new ones. Or you could also replace the piston rings for extra insurance. But for the most part, you might be over worrying about problems. When I first got my 99 Accord, I thought it was a monster! After a few weeks it started feeling weaker as I got used to the power, same thing that's happening to you.
As for maximum power, a full swap or basic turbo setup are your best options. Those blocks are known to handle boost pretty well.
I have an H swap in my car and rarely smash the throttle anymore. Sometimes it's just nice to know your car is fully capable under the hood, even though you baby it
As for maximum power, a full swap or basic turbo setup are your best options. Those blocks are known to handle boost pretty well.
I have an H swap in my car and rarely smash the throttle anymore. Sometimes it's just nice to know your car is fully capable under the hood, even though you baby it
No it does not have VTEC, yo. It has variable valve timing that is hardly noticeable without a tune. The sound isn't going to change, and you won't reach mach 1 any quicker than you would have with a non-vtec motor (to a point that is).
I 100% agree with Bairdandrew77, its a nice feeling knowing you have the power. But it doesn't mean you need to constantly floor it everywhere. Heck I drive the speed limit everywhere I go, why? Because if I need/want to I could spank 90% of the little ricer's in my town, but I'm more respectful than that.
I 100% agree with Bairdandrew77, its a nice feeling knowing you have the power. But it doesn't mean you need to constantly floor it everywhere. Heck I drive the speed limit everywhere I go, why? Because if I need/want to I could spank 90% of the little ricer's in my town, but I'm more respectful than that.
Even though it's led me to get a 64 in a 50, then literally 6 minutes later 85 in a 55..
That is possible. But that's what i'd like to do. I'd like to get a rebuild kit and do it but i just don't have the experience to do it.
Well i'm able to actually feel the difference at about 2600 rpm, not only that but i can hear it in my short ram intake. Once i hit vtec it's a deeper, bwaaahhh. Anywho, i usually smash everywhere i go. I like to go fast so...
Even though it's led me to get a 64 in a 50, then literally 6 minutes later 85 in a 55..
Well i'm able to actually feel the difference at about 2600 rpm, not only that but i can hear it in my short ram intake. Once i hit vtec it's a deeper, bwaaahhh. Anywho, i usually smash everywhere i go. I like to go fast so...
Even though it's led me to get a 64 in a 50, then literally 6 minutes later 85 in a 55..

Honestly you are just hearing the engine rev higher. Especially with an F series with a factory cam and a factory tune there is no definable tone change except for the engine being louder due to the engine being revved higher. The F series motors have a more economy based VTEC. It slowly slopes you up through the powerband giving the motor power as it needs it. Compared to an H series that has a completely definable tone and a noticeable kick once it actually engages. This is a fact, not to mention the F series motors in no way were ever intended to go fast. Just a larger motor to haul the heavier Accord chassis around. My girlfriends 90hp D15B2 civic can go 85mph, its nothing special. But you should really be keeping the speeding to the track before you hurt someone.
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