uneven plastigauge reading... please input!
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I've no idea what I am doing wrong or what this means. But when I plastigauge my rods this is the result I end up with. Think I need new rods? Or is this normal
Are you 100% certain the rod bore and bearing back are clean?
If so try a simple swap test:
First flip the rod 180* on the rod journal.
Does the squish change sides?
Yes = tapered rod bore
No = possibly tapered rod journal
Swap the rod to another rod journal.
Does the squish follow the rod?
Yes = tapered rod bore
No = tapered rod journal
Also swap the bearing and run the same test. You get the idea.
*I assume you dont have a micrometer or dial bore gauge or you wouldn't be asking.
If so try a simple swap test:
First flip the rod 180* on the rod journal.
Does the squish change sides?
Yes = tapered rod bore
No = possibly tapered rod journal
Swap the rod to another rod journal.
Does the squish follow the rod?
Yes = tapered rod bore
No = tapered rod journal
Also swap the bearing and run the same test. You get the idea.
*I assume you dont have a micrometer or dial bore gauge or you wouldn't be asking.
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From: NorthWestCoast united states
What's the best way to remove the rod caps? I might be smearing the plastigauge while removing rod cap?...
I cleaned and retorqued with new plastigauge 3 times with same result. Then I flipped the rod 180 and the plastigauge reading evened out. Im certain that everything is clean. Thank you for responding!
I cleaned and retorqued with new plastigauge 3 times with same result. Then I flipped the rod 180 and the plastigauge reading evened out. Im certain that everything is clean. Thank you for responding!
Are you 100% certain the rod bore and bearing back are clean?
If so try a simple swap test:
First flip the rod 180* on the rod journal.
Does the squish change sides?
Yes = tapered rod bore
No = possibly tapered rod journal
Swap the rod to another rod journal.
Does the squish follow the rod?
Yes = tapered rod bore
No = tapered rod journal
Also swap the bearing and run the same test. You get the idea.
*I assume you dont have a micrometer or dial bore gauge or you wouldn't be asking.
If so try a simple swap test:
First flip the rod 180* on the rod journal.
Does the squish change sides?
Yes = tapered rod bore
No = possibly tapered rod journal
Swap the rod to another rod journal.
Does the squish follow the rod?
Yes = tapered rod bore
No = tapered rod journal
Also swap the bearing and run the same test. You get the idea.
*I assume you dont have a micrometer or dial bore gauge or you wouldn't be asking.
yeah I'd also like to know this when I plastigauge my new bearings and crank.
the end caps are hard as hell to get off the Eagle rods, and Wiggling it back and forth like crazy is gonna mess the readings.
the end caps are hard as hell to get off the Eagle rods, and Wiggling it back and forth like crazy is gonna mess the readings.
also when you are tightening or loosening the bolts make sure to have the ratchet perpendicular to the length of the crank to help avoid the crank from rotating around
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Yes exactly. You can only plastigauge on the TOP half of the rod big end (not the end cap) so when you hit the rod bolt to seperate the halfs you arent smushing the wax more.
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Awesomee! Thanks for info!
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