Hey guys, I have a 1992 Acura integra, it has a b18a1 and is bone stock. It runs good, and has decent power for a 1.8, but I want more. I plan on buying a different car to drive while I build this one. Money doesn't matter, I just want it to be reliable and fast. What's a realistic daily driver horsepower goal? Would 400 be a waste or could that be drivable. Obviously I would be doing suspension and everything as well so it actually makes it to the ground. After I get an idea how much horse power I should shoot for, I'll need a parts list, start to finish of what I should buy. I am a complete noob with Hondas still but I'm a quick learner. I'd like to know what people think the best set up is with a b18a1, or if I should get a different motor. I wouldn't like to spend much more than $6000 on the car including everything. Suspension, tires, turbo, internal parts, and trans. Also, this won't be a race car, it might make it to the track a few times but this is a daily driver. And please don't make a big fight out of this, I don't want someone that just boosted to give advice, I would like someone that actually knows what they are talking about, and that has made fast reliable dd's. I can also get ahold of them off the sight if they wanted to help me out to understand things.

 

didn't read any of the FAQs I take it.

 

money doesnt mattter,
6k to spend on everything
reliable,
1992 integra...

How old are you?

This sounds like you just got your first car and have lots of plans. I would suggest you just slow your role noob and start with maybe doing something simple.

Change your front brakes, it's a 1992 i'm sure fresh rotors and pads are in order.

See how well you handle 4 lug nuts, 1 12mm bolt, and 2 17mm bolts.

Gotta walk before you run... post your car too

 

Then take some time to learn: https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/%2A%2A%2Aforced-induction-forum-faq%2A%2A%2A-1024174/

 

Exactly how I figured this would go. Ill just leave this post now.

 

What? That we would suggest you to read the FAQ?

 

Maybe he will like my answer...

Gottz tu getz a MADD Jdm yo. Shitz gunna be wakk if u dontz gotz Jdm yo. Need to hit up my boy EBay, he'll hookz u upz

On a real note, Bandshee... If you knew that people were going to respond with " read the FAQ " then you obviously neglected the first thing most of US do: RESEARCH. I've been toying with a LS 92 Integra and a few days ago I finally got her to make 420 whp staying NON-VTEC. Everything that is on that car is a homogolation of research and experience. Most of the guys on these boards are simply tired of beginner wrenchers asking for advice , only to be dismissed because the beginner didn't like what was said. So, learn from others mistakes too.. Read, read and read some more. You are never going to learn by expecting others to do it for you.

 

I like how the noob called a kid a noob haha

 

Read the faq a few times, lots of good information and you won't take it in the first time

Get the suspension and brakes sorted first then drive the car a bit. Power is nothing without control.

As far as a power level, 350-400whp on really good tires (read:sticky) is about the limit without having ungodly wheelspin. You can go higher using boost by gear and traction control but for an all out drivers experience, stick with 350-400 and learn how the car and yourself react before shooting the moon with power levels

 

these responses... good LoL before bed :D

 

Dude HT is brutal. but I can almost guarantee that every question you have to ask someone else already has the answer posted.

 

Yeah most forums are. All the know-it-alls always knew everything when they started so not knowing is bad. Oh well though, I went through the FAQ like 10 times and read a bunch of other stuff. Have some basics figured out now. I'm just gonna buy a civic hatch that's already had a turbo installed and see how it all went. Then ill go from there to understand it better and build a car. Thanks for the welcomes though. At least people got a laugh

 

Easy as Pie.

Eagle rods + Forged pistons in that B18A = 750$
New bearings : 100-120$
MLS head gasket or OEM : 70-120$
ARP EVERYTHING : 300$
Block clean prep hone etc ( machine work ) : 150-300$
engine complete, ready for enough power to blow the stock cylinder sleeves

Turbo setup :
Decent T3 manifold : 150-300$
T3 Garrett T04E / T3 Garrett 50 trim OR Borg warner T3 KKK : 200-600$
Downpipe : 150$ tops
Intercooler + piping with at LEAST godspeed quality. ( which is poop ) : 250-400$
Lines, fittings oil pan : 250$

Tuning :
INjectors 450cc - 1000cc baller status : 50-500$
Hondata / flash tune / socket : 150-500$

suspension :
Coilovers : 800$+
LCA / strut bar / all other misc stuff : 400$+

GSR Tranny / axles / etc : 100-300$

Dyno tune : 300-500$


there that should about cover it.

 

Now. Look at the above list. How do yo know if all, or part, of what he recommended is going to work for your application AND will also work together as a system? Answer? You don't. Why because you have no clue due o the fact hat you failed to try to educate yourself. Now you're at the mercy of strangers on a forum because of your laziness.

When it comes to forced induction, people that spoonfeed you aren't really helping you.

 

So true...this is why you need to learn for yourself. Each of us could give you our opinion, but you have no way to verify if we're being helpful or being ********. Learn for yourself and make your own decisions...that's what we all do

 

Re read my post and use it as a general guideline

Don't go slap a turbo motor making 300hp in a car with stock brakes and suspension... the car will drive like **** and stop even worse

Remember: Power is nothing without control... this little mantra applies to everything in life and spans every form of motorsport from F1, Nascar, Drifting, SCCA/NASA to street cars

Your setup must have balance to be a well performing, fun, easy car to drive

So again, read the FAQs stickied to the top of the forum, read them again and again until you have a decent grasp of the components, time, and investment fully.

It wouldn't hurt to hop on over to the suspension and brake forums and read their stickies as well. I'm not saying you need race car **** but a good set of coilovers, swaybars, adjustable arms (a few at a time) stiffer motor mounts and possibly some poly bushings (old bushings can cause a lot of a cars handling/stability issues and of course strut tower bars (they work) as well as lower subframe braces front and rear (ASR rear, benen front or something equivalent. .. just to keep the suspension points from flexing

Also in the brake department, you don't need anything massive. A good set of braided lines, good pads (hawk hp+ imo) as well as a decent set of slotted rotors to promote pad cleaning

This should give you a solid foundation upon which to build a turbo car

Keep in mind that you don't need to do this all at once, break it down into segments, maybe buy a part or rwo when budget and time allow for it. No need to rush it

 

Yeah I can understand that. I've been doing some studying on here on some of this stuff. Have a decent grasp but learn more everyday. Anyone care to explain turbo sizes to me? I read about it in the *** but didn't understand it. Just what the numbers mean would be a ton of help

 

No.
You better set aside more than a couple of hours/days trying to get an understanding of all this. Doubtful you've made much use of anything in the FAQs or build threads. Anything you don't understand? Start making use of Google. Have SPECIFIC questions? Then post those.

These are Turbo101 questions you're asking.

 

my list wasn't that bad.. it may of missed a few things but had most of what is necessary for a good turbo build.

 

if money isnt an issue, why start with a shitbox?

 

I didn't say your list was bad or good. I was using it as an example as to how it really doesn't help someone that doesn't even know what they're looking at.