Test drove a 92 the other day and was amazed at how far off the floor the clutch pedal was before it hooked up, never drove one that had the pedal come up that far - I was concerned that maybe the clutch was worn so tried to get it to roll of a stop in third, and it stalled, which is the normal test I use for clutch wear if I'm not feeling obvious slipping or chatter.

It wasn't that the period of engagement took a long time on its way up, more so where it occured (high).

Tried to do a bit more research, and am a bit confused - some posts say that it's a pedal or pushrod adjustment issue, and others say it's a sign of a clutch that's on it's way out - can someone have the last word on this? I mean, if there is adjustment on the pedal and it's way up, is that becuase there's not much material left on the clutch, and adjustment is just a bandaid before the clutch completely goes? Or is this a normal adjustment item like rear brakes?

Also, one of the posts stated that one has to be really careful with the pushrod adjustment to not have the clutch permanently dragging, does anyone have anymore info on acceptable adjustment limits or specs?

These are the threads I found:

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=157649
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...=adjust+clutch
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=197797

 

if u give me more details (trim, coupe sedan, engine) i can look up ur adjustment info see if they have a max or min. i kno the clutches have an adjustment ont he back of the pedal idk if the master/slave clutch does too. id say check the fluid levels of both maybe 1 is low and it was adjusted to make up for it

 

The master cylinder/cruise control switch/CSS is what determines the clutch pedal movement and clutch engagement.

 

It's easy to adjust yourself. You just remove the cotter pin that holds the thorough bolt. Normally this is the hardest part the first time you adjust it because the cotter pin is in a bad spot. Then you just undo the locknut, similar to what you do on a tie-rod, then just turn the push rod end to either engage earlier or engage later. Again this is similar in nature to a tie-rod.

When you put the cotter pin back on just use the two other holes so the cotter pin is easier to remove the next time. There were 4 holes on mine. I'm guessing it's similar for most cars. Obviously you'll need to bend the cotter pin to keep it in. I'm assuming you know this.