Could someone please confirm the resistance values between the B and D terminals on a '92 coil (the two terminals farthest from the clip indent)? My manual says it should be between 2.1k to 2.3k, but I'm not getting anything, on two coils.

Also, I'm in spec for secondary resistance, but my Primary (terminals A and C, closest to clip indent) is reading 0.4 to 0.5 on both, manual says it should be 0.6 to 0.8, time for a new coil? Just seems odd that both coils are reading the same, and both are supposedly out....

Coil is pretty much right at the 70 deg spec temp.

Thanks!

 

Not sure if this helps....here is what I have for the 4th gen's

 

Thanks v. much Lost!

Unfortunately that diagram is for the 90-91s that had the coil integral to the dizzy. 92 and 93 moved to an external coil.

What your diagram did confirm though is the Primary resistance appears the same between the two designs - would love confirmation on that from someone with 92-93 info though..?

Anybody able to comment if 0.5 ohms primary is too far out from the 0.6-0.8 they're quoting? I've heard that there can be pretty big variations based on temp and operating conditions, and I've got two coils both reading the same thing...

Thanks again for the time Lost.

 

Well, lets try this. Looking up the coil on a 93 - Majestic shows the same part number on a 94 DX......so in that case

 

Actually for the secondary test, you need to touch the two leads together and subtract that from your reading since you have to subtract the resistance in the leads as well to get an accurate test result. If you were getting .5 and the test leads themselves have .1 then it's really .4

 

Thanks all for the help!

First, chalk another fail up for the POS Haynes, mine identifies the primary as being terminals A and C, while the factory diagram you graciously provided identifies primary as A and B. Values are the same, but be nice to actually be on the right terminals..


Next:

According to my manual, there is a difference between the 92 and 93 coils. I tried looking on the Majestic site to see if the 92 is the same part number as the 94 as well but couldn't find the coil anywhere on the pull-down menu - where did you find it?

Also:

the Haynes manual calls for checking B and D, but there's nothing mentioned in your diagram - it does say 'cont'd' at the bottom, is there another page? I realize that the terminal numbers won't match, but I want to see what all the tests are....

And lastly:

My meter gives me 0.00 resistance when connecting leads. Also, you're mentioning 0.4 vs 0.5, but those are the #s for the primary not secondary - I imagine you just picked those number at random to illustrate the principle? Also, does this subtraction apply only to secondary and not to primary? Thanks, my electrical know-how is not strong at all!

Given that I may have been measuring resistance in the wrong circuit based on the Haynes diagram, all bets are off. I'm out of town with work for the week away from the car, but I hope to be able to get the right info so that I can check this out right when I'm back.

I'm so over the Haynes BS, I want my good manual back!

 

That applies to all tests but only the secondary is close enough to need to utilize it. The primary is not going to matter since you're talking about 15k+ ohms

Yeah, Haynes, chilton, there's one more...they're all garbage in terms of exactness. Just use them as a basic guide not as a resourceful one.

 

Ok thanks, can you just confirm that you mean secondary when you're talking about values of 15k+ ohms, and not actually primary?

Based on the values in Lost's diagram, it's the primary that has the small units and the secondary thats in the k range....

I figure you might have reversed them by accident but just wanted to make sure in case I'm missing something or if you know that the values in the diagram are reversed.

Thanks!

 

lol ya sorry I meant primary...

 

I've had two coils blow and both times they read out of spec so normally if they aren't in spec they are indeed bad...It's easier to test coils than igniters lol

 

So your comment on the ignitor brings to mind another question I have for you. You and another member offered some advice for my hesitating/bogging issue a while back and I've been too slammed w work to get through all the suggestions yet, but last week the car completely died just as I was pulling onto an on-ramp. A passing cyclist helped turn it over while I checked for spark and fuel, had fuel but no spark. Took off the the cap and cleaned/played with all the connections, checked for oil leaking from the seal, tapped the sensors and ignitor with my ratchet, put it all back together and bingo, it started!

Only to die like 3 minutes later..this time the rinse and repeat got me about 30 sec of run time before it died again. Hence the questions for coil resistance values as I was trouble shooting... so after measuring the two coils I had I was unsure of the coil values in my book as the real life values didn't match and were similar between the two coils, and time was running out before the JY closed for the weekend. I managed to get my gf to pick up a JY dizzy for $50 on her way home, they were supposed to throw in a coil for an extra $15, but the guy told my gf that I didn't need it as it was in the dizzy when she went to pick it up - ***hole, I told him it was for a 92, why would I ask for one if it was already included in the dizzy?!

Anyway, I just threw the dizzy in as I had it in hand and didn't feel like checking all the sensors and ignitor, bingo, started first crank, and after hand timing, it ran pretty good!

I reset the ECU, let it cycle, and the bogging is still there, but didn't want to drive it too much without doing a complete base idle and timing w a light.

All this for my question: the JY dizzy made the car run again, but based on the measurements that I took, the coil may be bad as well (will confirm when I'm back in town). Is there a possibility that a bad coil will fry dizzy components like the ignitor, or the other way around, or both? I find it odd that both coils I have are junk and even junk to the same values, but if I test it with the correct terminals and am still out a bit, I want to know if the coil could be the culprit for the dizzy crapping out....

Thanks!

 

You will want "atleast"13k on one test and .9 on the other. If it's not there then it's bad or you're testing something wrong. I've had aftermarket coils that test almost 20k. Really, the more the better on that test, imo.

The coil is after the ignitor so the coil can not affect the ignitor. imo. Think of the ignitor as a switch. When it's on it allows a signal to get to the coil.