head gasket job inquiries
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 189
Likes: 0
From: Sitka, AK
head gasket job inquiries
I'm getting ready to order a head gasket set. I'll be replacing the head gasket on my '92 Accord. I'm trying to ask/follow advice from experienced members here as I encounter uncertainties as I'm proceeding with the job. I have a few questions at this point:
1. It's probably been discussed/debated plenty of times but do I want to get the “layered steel” or the “graphite” (or “fiber') type head gasket for the replacement? I've seen it remarked that the finish on the cylinder head and block must be flatter and smoother (when using a steel gasket) than what has been traditionally required for graphite gaskets to make gaskets seal properly. I've noticed that both types (head gasket material) are available in head gasket sets available for this vehicle. Which would be recommended, and why? I suppose it may depend on different circumstances?
2. In regard to what brand of gasket set to consider, I assume most here will recommend getting “OEM” replacement only, or at least a known brand name such as Fel-Pro. There seems to be quite a price range depending upon brands of such names of Fel-Pro or Beck-Arnley, etc. Also there are plenty of considerably less expensive sets from unknown off-brands available. I suppose the rule of thumb is the more you pay the better quality you're going to get, and that trying to save money buying some “unknown” brand is in the long run not worth it.
3. Is it a definite no-no to consider just re-using the head bolts instead of spending the money for new ones? Those aren't really cheap.
4. How difficult is it to tell for sure whether the head requires resurfacing? If I can get my hands on a precision straightedge and proper gauge, or maybe take it to a shop that has such, will I be really be able to make an accurate assessment of whether resurfacing is necessary, or should it (resurfacing) just be done anyway because realistically it's generally too difficult to be sure about flatness being within tolerance even if checking with the straightedge and gauge.
Incidentally, I've haven't removed the head yet, so haven't seen the old head gasket yet. That's because I understand a head gasket set usually comes with new "tube seals" and I was wanting to keep the head still anchored on while I remove the rocker arm assembly and do the work as described on the following post (and shown in the video on the post): http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...lug+tube+seals
Thanks for any comments.
1. It's probably been discussed/debated plenty of times but do I want to get the “layered steel” or the “graphite” (or “fiber') type head gasket for the replacement? I've seen it remarked that the finish on the cylinder head and block must be flatter and smoother (when using a steel gasket) than what has been traditionally required for graphite gaskets to make gaskets seal properly. I've noticed that both types (head gasket material) are available in head gasket sets available for this vehicle. Which would be recommended, and why? I suppose it may depend on different circumstances?
2. In regard to what brand of gasket set to consider, I assume most here will recommend getting “OEM” replacement only, or at least a known brand name such as Fel-Pro. There seems to be quite a price range depending upon brands of such names of Fel-Pro or Beck-Arnley, etc. Also there are plenty of considerably less expensive sets from unknown off-brands available. I suppose the rule of thumb is the more you pay the better quality you're going to get, and that trying to save money buying some “unknown” brand is in the long run not worth it.
3. Is it a definite no-no to consider just re-using the head bolts instead of spending the money for new ones? Those aren't really cheap.
4. How difficult is it to tell for sure whether the head requires resurfacing? If I can get my hands on a precision straightedge and proper gauge, or maybe take it to a shop that has such, will I be really be able to make an accurate assessment of whether resurfacing is necessary, or should it (resurfacing) just be done anyway because realistically it's generally too difficult to be sure about flatness being within tolerance even if checking with the straightedge and gauge.
Incidentally, I've haven't removed the head yet, so haven't seen the old head gasket yet. That's because I understand a head gasket set usually comes with new "tube seals" and I was wanting to keep the head still anchored on while I remove the rocker arm assembly and do the work as described on the following post (and shown in the video on the post): http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...lug+tube+seals
Thanks for any comments.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post