I have a 95 gsr block that i sent out to GE to get sleeved. I would like to use the oem oil cooler but im missing the water pipe with the extra nipple for the oil cooler and can not find one local or even someone with it cuz acura doesnt sell that part. So im just going to take it out. My question is, Do i just unbolt the oil cooler and tap off the coolant lines? Or do i need to get a special sandwich plate?

 

Number 9 is the coolant tube on the back of the block, be about 40 bucks shipped from acura

http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no

 

What's the deal with those? My 1gen sir block had that but my second gen doesn't.....

 

I'm not sure why Honda got rid of it oil cooler on newer blocks. Glad I have a 95 gsr, it's came with it!

 

Generally the oil stays at the temp of the coolant maybe a little higher. IMO i dont see what good it really does unless you have a motor that the oil gets really hot but thats just a sign of something else going wrong. A real oil cooler needs fins and air flowing across those fins to actually change oil temps. If your running a synthetic oil or racing oil it shouldnt NEED a cooler unless your endurance racing or circuit track racing a lot

 

It really is a heat exchanger its there to bring the oil and water temps up to operating temps at the same rate which is very helpful for engine life,some engine builders like them and some dont I for one fit them to all B series engines I build.

 

Nice. My old block had it and lasted so long! I didn't know they could be removed and retro fitted to a newer block tho?

Boosted Hondas the oil doesn't get too hot? I've never monitored it

 

I know for gsr and itr
Gsr 94-95 came with it and all 96+itr have them
96+ gsr did not come with them

 

ctr came with it also.

is there a reason you can't use the atf cooler in an auto radiator as an oil cooler?

 

Its to large and would take away a lot of pressure from the system. If you had dry sump oil system then yes

 

Depending on the physical size of the atf cooler it might be doable. It's not so much core size but the line diameter of the feed and return
12an is too big for a stock pump, especially if the line length is long.
10an is good if the lines are short
8an is normally what I run for various fluid cooling systems, small enough that it doesn't have a huge pressure drop over long lengths and its smaller diameter means it takes less fluid to fill the lines as well as having higher fluid velocities through the line, which also means less stress on a stock pump

Hell my oil cooler is 8x8x4, looks like an air to water core lol but isn't, has a built in thermostat bypass and uses 8an fittings, not to mention the oil passage diameter in the core is much smaller than a typical cooler, while having a large fin surface area for cooling (like it should be) so I don't expect any issue (gotta love military aircraft surplus.... 35,000 dollar oil cooler lol), even running dual oil filters (each filter has a different micron rating, offering the best filtration possible) first filter is for larger particles and the second for smaller, this way I don't clog a single filter with a low micron rating.

Plus since they are inline filters (stainless media which means I can clean them and evaulate filter for signs of motor health) they don't have the pressure drop of a standard oil filter block. Andi always aim to keep line length for both supply and return as short and direct as possible, again to reduce stress on the pump

 

Thanks everyone for your help found one at my local performance shop they had laying around.