Hey had a quick question , my honda does 3500 rpm doing 75 mph, is this normal ? Or am I working the engine too hard ?

 

Well what transmission does it have in it?

 

Automatic

 

Sounds like you're missing overdrive. Do all your gears shift cleanly?

 

That actually sounds like normal rpms.

 

Yes the gears shift pretty well , the engine isn't over heating its cooling at a good level , I did swap out the tranny , because my other one hard shifted pretty bad . I can only go 50 in d3 because then the engine is revving at 3800 to 4000 then I shifted it to d4 then it goes back down to 2500 to 3000. in the highway , 3200 to 3500 at 75 mph , but hitting 80 - 85 it's at 4000 to 4200 , I just don't over work it you know ?

 

Which automatic? Look at the front of the case there will be a bar code sticker and a four letter designation. BOYA is factory, but if it was replaced with an import unit from an Odyssey then it will be MPJA.

If it is MPJA then at 75MPH you will be doing 3500rpm in 4th

If it is BOYA then at 75MPH you will be doing 2900rpm in 4th

 

I mean , I just don't wanna over work the engine .

 

There are a few solutions to hard shifting. Did you post about the hard shifting here on H-T?
The B1 has a rev limiter of 6900rpm, with the tach redline at 6000rpm.
It is not a problem to spin the F series, I have the MPJA in a '95 coupe and '97 Sedan. Personally I think the gear ratios are better matched for the B1 engine. Barely roll into the throttle and the car accelerates briskly, no need to downshift or floor the throttle.

 

Although the revolutions are higher, the engine is 'seeing' less of a load as the multiplication of torque through the gear ratios requires less strain on the engine to move the same amount of weight. Granted the rpms are higher, but as long as the oil is clean and full there is no reason to worry.

 

No I wasn't a member at the time , that tranny was horrible , it shifted really hard and later I found out the owner before , jb welded it and I was pissed. And my serial says mpqa?

 

MPOA or MPQA one of those , on the tranny

 

The shifting and shift chracteristic is controlled by a few factors. There is a cable that attaches to the throttle that can be misadjusted causing really hard shifts. There are also the NM/NC sensors on the right cover which tells the TCU what the shaft speeds of the transmission are, combined with the speedometer sensor, these along with the throttle cable will create the shift point. If the sensors are coated in ferrous material the resolution goes to hell and can create some bad shift events.

MPQA I am not sure of where that comes from. On the right side looking where the drain plug is there will be a VIN tag which will original match the original vehicle it came out of. If the transmission was from a North American car then you will be able to tell what model it came from. But if it is an import unit then the tag will be in Japanese or removed.

 

Thanks for the help mike , imma look at that VIN by the drain plug, tomorrow . But I'm glad to know my f22b1 isn't working hard or taking in a heavy load .

 

MPOA I believe is a Prelude transmission, being a 'sports coupe' it will most likely have lower gear ratios inside.
If the VIN tag is still attached that would really be helpful.

 

If it was a prelude tranny , would my engine still be all right ?

 

And with my new tranny the only problem I see with it is that , I can't go very slow, if I go 30 mph and let it slow down to 20 , with out braking , just coasting down , it feels like it just drops , it hard shifts down , almost like you dropped a crescent wrench on the floor , not a grinding noise but just a drop

 

Yes it will be fine. The RPMs will be higher as the gear ratios are lower.

• First make sure your engine/trans mounts are in good shape. A broken mount will cause unwanted movement and violent banging.
• Under the glovebox door there are two blue connectors, pull down the one with two wires. Place a wire or metal paperclip to jump the two wires. Turn the car to ON and look for any trouble codes. Go to the TECHAUTO link in my signature for further details.
• If no codes, check that the AT is full of fluid. You will want the fluid to be in between the hash marks.
• Check the throttle cable from the throttle body to the transmission. Preferably the cable should have the slack taken out of it, and will pull on the transmission lever only when the throttle begins to move. Two 12mm open end wrench are best for adjusting. I also like to take any slack out of the pedal to throttle body cable as well, this improves engine response.
• If shifting does not improve, you will next want to pull the NM/NC shaft sensors and make sure they are free of ferrous material. Sometimes the VSS can get dirty and like the NM/NC sensors may send a false signal to the TCU causing an erratic or bad shift.

 

Sounds like u have a problem on ur hands