So I did my Mini Me swap. . . . started out as a horrible nightmare . . . started running better, started running worse. . . . everything I did to adjust or compensate was a waste of time !!!!! every post I made asking this and that was a waste of my and your time (my apologies) the y8 timing is 1000 million percent 1/2 tooth off. . . . .there is NO way to adjust the motor for proper operation WITHOUT and adjustable Cam gear. If I thought I set the timing properly it would line up 3/4 of a centimeter before the single mark . . . . I thought ok . . advance it a tooth . . . it would line up in the center red mark. . . . . . . fawk I read sooo many mini me write ups . . .no one mentions cam gear or a fix for the timing on y7/y8

THE HONDA D WILL NOT RUN ANYWHERE NEAR CORRECTLY UNLESS YOUR CAM AND CRANK ARE EXACT.

if YOUR TRYING TO DIAGNOSE ISSUES CHECK YOUR TIMING.

TO ALL THE FUTURE IDIOTS THAT ARE GONNA ASK WHY THEIR Y7/Y8 DOESNT RUN RIGHT DONT POST UNTILL YOU HAVE AN ADJUSTABLE CAM GEAR. ITS THE ONLY WAY

I am excited to see how this Full race N/A PnP head does with a 50 shot of nitrous!!!! gonna make this motor my bitch . .. tired of being its bitch !!!

to everyone who was kind enough to oblige my idocy I thank you

So . . . I got my cam gear today. . . . it didn't come with a key . . .. I wanted to take the one off my y7 gear or y 8 gear but there built in . . .I gotta fabricate one OR HIT UP CDN TIRE WHEN THEIR OPEN but I know as soon as I do I will have the crank and cam aligned and my problems are over.

I am now @ 1000 bucks for a proper mini me swap !!!! done myself, no labour charges. . . .. . 500 more bucks I would of had an LS swap . . . .

 

genuine Honda head gasket kit - $286 + tax
Y8 Head, Intake, Wire harness, ECU - $375 used
I chose to buy a BNIB Dizzy (keep old for spare) $135
Coolant 20$
Oil/Filter 25$
Timing belt, tensioner, and water pump 200$
Knock Sensor 40 $
adjustable cam gear - 85$
spool of wire for o2 sensors 18$
can of paint - gotta have a cool valve cover -6.95$
spark plug - copper core NGK 15$


500$ is what people usually say . . . .. . **** off

Do it once do it right, do it right do it once . . . do it wrong do it over and over and over again ....

 

Conssidering the Y7 & Y8 share every single component related to mechanical timing except the cam your problem is somewhere else besides the cam gear. Unless the block and/or head have been milled a significant amount an adjustable gear isn't the solution.

 

Isn't the Y7 ignition time at 12degrees BTDC vs the Y8 at 16degrees BTDC? If so wouldn't that mean its just a difference of the crank pulley marks?

 

where else could my problem be? I see that the timing is off by half a tooth. I will tell you in the morning when I get it installed.

is the y7 timing belt different than the y8? I used my y7 timing belt . . . . .

the timing marks wont line up . . . . one tooth is not enough and the next tooth is too much . . .. .

is it possible that because I used an Acura 1.6 El d16y8 head. . . I don't think so . . .

Acura Ecu . . no . ..

I see its the ******* timing !!!!!!!!

the car ran perfect before . . .

I cant get the marks to line up . .. its the ******* timing !!!!!!

Mini Me bastard !!!!!

The block was port and polished NO it was not milled or decked . . . was true to begin with . .

I have seen various threads with the same issues im having, and I have seen threads saying that it seems the y7/y8 is off a 1/2 a tooth . .. .

Im confirming it . . . . you require an adjustable cam gear . . . wont ever run correct without it. the cam is different by a couple degrees . . . . yes the cam gear is the same . . but the cam id different as you said . . its off by a couple degrees . . . .. . .

 

haven't seen the y7 numbers but I know that the y8 is 12 btdc . .. when my car warms up the scan tool tells me its 12.5 as well . . . idles @ 17-21 cold . . . rich . . . kinda some sort of choke type deal . .. .. . run super rich to warm it up . . .

 

z6 likes 16

 

This, here are all the Y7/Y8 part numbers and are identical for each model:
13621-P2F-A01 PULLEY, TIMING BELT DRIVE


13810-P2K-003 PULLEY, CRANKSHAFT


19200-P2A-A01 WATER PUMP

14400-P2F-A01 BELT, TIMING (104RU24 GB-333)

14520-P2A-305 022 001 TENSIONER SET, TIMING BELT (KOYO SEIKO)

14211-P2E-003 PULLEY, TIMING BELT DRIVEN

Nope both are 12 degrees

 

Well I learned something new today, good stuff!

 

Y5, Y7 and Y8's are all 12*. Look the part numbers up. Like I mentioned EVERY single part related to mechanical timing are the same except the cam. Cam gear, timing belt, rear upper timing cover, lower timing cover, timing belt, tensioner even the crank and crak pulley are the same.



No idea...I don't know the background on what you've done or haven't done. Maybe you're just doing it wrong. Your combo is no different than doing a bone stock Y7 or Y8. Do you have a thread here to link?

 

Nub, Noob . . . . Newb . . .a little more experience your post count will mean something . . ..

 

I guess I missed this part or wasn't paying attention.

I went back looking to see if you had said what brand ajustable gear you were going to use. This can actuall cause problems because there are very few adjustable gears for the 96-00 D's that are indexed and marked correctly.

I requoted the above because what you said there is absolutetly 100% incorrect. Information like this is why people like you have problems when they search the net trying to figure out how something like this is done.

The is no machanical timing difference between a Y7 & Y8 cam. They use the same cam gear and the same base ignition timing. The only difference is one extra lobe on the intake side for each cylinder on one of them...that is all.

 

You have no clue what you're talking about.

 

Also is your check engine light on?

 

Um...I did the swap on mine with a milled head, and yes, that WILL throw the timing off slightly (1-2 degrees). Used the Y7 belt. Instead of monkeying around with different cam gears, do what I did and grind out the slots on your distributor a few millimeters. That allowed me to get my timing back to true without fiddling with different cam gears.
But if your head and block are true, there is no reason to fiddle with mechanical timing at all.

....and $1000 for your swap? Sorry to say man, but you got hosed. I swapped the head gasket, had the head rebuilt/milled, and swapped out the intake manifold as well. Combine that with new injectors, custom valve cover, and strut tower brace with coolant, oil, sensors, and ECU...ran me around $550 two years ago...
Parts ain't THAT damn expensive, are they? oO
Maybe you're right and should have done the LS swap instead?

 

I use a y7 block with a y8 head and have no issues. The y7 and y8 blocks are the same.

 

Maybe all of you have had no issues . . . maybe its because I used an Acura 1.6 el Head . . . That's wonderful your timing worked out.

Mine didn't. and was all fixed with an adjustable cam gear. . . which I have heard several locations that its needed for the y7/y8 mini me.

It was off 3-4 degrees .... So I installed the gear. . . marks weren't quite where they should of been . . so I remarked it. It works perfect now. runs like a champion. best it ever has. lots of power . .

Now I can get on with installing the nitrous kit and hitting the track !

Here's some pictures of the Gear and the engine

 

A note for the picture of the cam gear. . . The marks on the blue are tdc for the cam. the white line was the manufacturers useless line. (which somehow in the end lined up perfectly with tdc on the cam). The mark on the outer edge was where I transferred the marks from my original stock Y8 cam gear. I lined up the keyways and the manufacturer TDC lines were a little off. The difference from the outer mark to the inner mark was what I was off by on the crank pulley . . . half a tooth.

 

The only difference between a Y7 and Y8 bottom end is the pistons. Everything else, block, crank, rods, oil pump, water pump, timing belt, cam gear, etc is the same.

It is just quite simply not possible to require an adjustable cam gear for that setup. The only way you could end up half a tooth off is with a PM3 cam gear (D16Z6/D15Z1/D15B7/D15B8)

 

well I ended up a half tooth off . . . not sure what to tell you . . .

 

You could also end up there with a P2E gear on a Z6 cam.

 

That's probably what it is right there.

 

does the Z6 cam fit in the Y8 head? Possibly the cam was switched before I bought it.

 

Yes