Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000) EG/EH/EJ/EK/EM1 Discussion

Snapped Motor Mount Bolts Question

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Old May 28, 2013 | 12:13 PM
  #1  
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Default Snapped Motor Mount Bolts Question

Okay guys, long story short: last night I'm driving home and I hear a loud clunk and crashing sound, I immediately loose any pull from transmission. I pull over look under and I have a busted axle (which had just been replaced). I get the car home and go to pop the hood and this is what I see (I know bay looks rice, previous owner did it and I've been trying to fix other riced out and cheap mods. I also realize I am in desperate need of a better intake, but there was suspension work that took precedence):

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Immediately realizing an issue with this I look at the mount:

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Upon removing the mount this is what I see:

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I am going to pull the motor this weekend, but do you guys thing I will be able to extract these with a kit? I am worried about them having too high of a torque spec to get with an easy out. Any advice would be great!

Last edited by robf88; May 28, 2013 at 12:14 PM. Reason: Wrong picture
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Old May 28, 2013 | 12:40 PM
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Default Re: Snapped Motor Mount Bolts Question

Try using vise grips on the top left one, see if it will come out easy or not. They should come out easy as all the torque is at the head of the bolt.
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Old May 28, 2013 | 12:44 PM
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Default Re: Snapped Motor Mount Bolts Question

Were both torque mounts installed?
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Old May 28, 2013 | 12:46 PM
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Default Re: Snapped Motor Mount Bolts Question

Top left might be easy with vise grips
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Old May 28, 2013 | 03:01 PM
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Default Re: Snapped Motor Mount Bolts Question

Channel locks would wrk good too if vice slips. Even a smaller crescent wrench
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Old May 28, 2013 | 05:21 PM
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Default Re: Snapped Motor Mount Bolts Question

Originally Posted by grumblemarc
Were both torque mounts installed?
When you say both torque mounts, do you mean the lower and upper mounts on the driver side, or the lower on driver side plus the passenger side? If so, either way, they both are. I get confused on mounts so if you mean something I'm missing though let me know (lol). I recently purchased the car and have been trying fix things so I have no idea why this would have happened.

Thanks for everyones advice about the vice grips; thats the plan there, but I'm going to try to easy out the others, but was worried that it may not work b/c I am not sure how much those are torqued (will look up on reinstall obviously).

Does anyone foresee any possible way of doing this without pulling the motor? I hate to do it, but if its the only way thats what I'm doing. Also, being the bolts snapped does anyone see a reason to replace all of the motor mounts while I'm doing it or would I be okay just swapping the one mount? Thanks again everyone!
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Old May 28, 2013 | 08:36 PM
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Default Re: Snapped Motor Mount Bolts Question

When I bought my Civic I had basically the same problem, although I actually had to drill and HeliCoil a hole because the threads were stripped. While doing that, I accidently drilled a bit too far and hit a water jacket. Black RTV and torquing down that bolt has held the water compression for the last 20k miles.

I also had a different bolt broken off in the block, just like yours. I was able to support the engine from underneath, and then loosen the bolt holding the engine to the passenger side mount, and the one for the mount in the back, underneath the intake manifold. I didn't take either one of these mounts all the way off - just loosened them enough to be able to tilt the engine. I used my engine hoist and was able to get the driver's side of the engine high enough to drill out the hole.

You could also try to find a friend with one of those 90 degree air wrenches..that would be about the only thing that'd get in there without having to tilt your engine super high like I did. Just so you know, it IS possible to tilt it enough to get to those bolts, though. I have the D16Y7 engine, if that makes a difference. I was also able to use an extractor bit on the bolt that was broken, no problem. It actually came out very easily.

Let me know if anything is unclear. Good luck!
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Old May 29, 2013 | 05:46 AM
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Default Re: Snapped Motor Mount Bolts Question

Originally Posted by Koko4
When I bought my Civic I had basically the same problem, although I actually had to drill and HeliCoil a hole because the threads were stripped. While doing that, I accidently drilled a bit too far and hit a water jacket. Black RTV and torquing down that bolt has held the water compression for the last 20k miles.

I also had a different bolt broken off in the block, just like yours. I was able to support the engine from underneath, and then loosen the bolt holding the engine to the passenger side mount, and the one for the mount in the back, underneath the intake manifold. I didn't take either one of these mounts all the way off - just loosened them enough to be able to tilt the engine. I used my engine hoist and was able to get the driver's side of the engine high enough to drill out the hole.

You could also try to find a friend with one of those 90 degree air wrenches..that would be about the only thing that'd get in there without having to tilt your engine super high like I did. Just so you know, it IS possible to tilt it enough to get to those bolts, though. I have the D16Y7 engine, if that makes a difference. I was also able to use an extractor bit on the bolt that was broken, no problem. It actually came out very easily.

Let me know if anything is unclear. Good luck!
The tilt actually sounds like a good idea, I may have to actually take the rear mount out, but I think I'm going to replace them all anyways. Thanks!
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Old May 29, 2013 | 05:48 AM
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Default Re: Snapped Motor Mount Bolts Question

I feel your pain...this happened to me just after my first dyno tune (eons ago). I didnt break anything (thankfully) and the threads were usable again. Get a vicegrip and hope that they come out easily...penetrating oil is your friend

Good luck
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Old May 30, 2013 | 06:52 PM
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Default Re: Snapped Motor Mount Bolts Question

Originally Posted by grumblemarc
Were both torque mounts installed?
I was wrong and a bit confused. When I said the left upper and lower were installed I was confused about location of left lower; the lower was missing and I hadn't realized (hadn't owned the car very long).

Originally Posted by Koko4
I also had a different bolt broken off in the block, just like yours. I was able to support the engine from underneath, and then loosen the bolt holding the engine to the passenger side mount, and the one for the mount in the back, underneath the intake manifold. I didn't take either one of these mounts all the way off - just loosened them enough to be able to tilt the engine. I used my engine hoist and was able to get the driver's side of the engine high enough to drill out the hole.
I ended up being able to tilt the motor and get to the broken bolts. Bottom one was difficult b/c I ended up having to go at a slight angle, but the first 2 came fairly easy. Thanks for the tilt idea - much easier than pulling the motor especially since I was going to buy a hoist to do it with!

Thanks everyone else for your help and advice also!
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Old Jun 3, 2013 | 07:38 AM
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Default Re: Snapped Motor Mount Bolts Question

what caused this??
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Old Jun 3, 2013 | 08:37 AM
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Default Re: Snapped Motor Mount Bolts Question

Originally Posted by robf88
I was wrong and a bit confused. When I said the left upper and lower were installed I was confused about location of left lower; the lower was missing and I hadn't realized (hadn't owned the car very long).
I'm willing to bet this contributed to it.
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Old Jun 3, 2013 | 08:45 AM
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Default Re: Snapped Motor Mount Bolts Question

this is why i like aftermarket mounts so that only the main 3 are needed.. alot of people say the b series still need the little baby mounts under the frame even when using aftermarket mount sets. although i do disagree with that, because the rear mount keeps it so still it will never see the need for the lower mounts especially oem ones..

My h22 swaps consist of 3 mounts and it stays dead still and has no need for more mounts...therefore a b series with aftermarkets should only need 3 also..
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