Did a wet comp test as the car was supposed to get tuned this Thursday....shot up by 80-100psi for all 4 cyls. I know it's due to the car running rich AF for all that time. but here's my question CAN I pull the pistons to replace the rings WITHOUT pulling the engine it's self I don't have the know how to do all that. pls need some insight I know removing the entire engine would be easier but I don't have the time/tools.

 

never mind this is WELL above what i'm capable of doing...but would like to know still

 

Yes but you will not be able to hone unless you pull the engine.

 

Was brought to my attention that a "shots" worth of oil is too much would that throw the reading off ? vs the proper table spoon amount ?

 

So I'm not an expert on wet tests, but based solely on what I know about fluid dynamics and general volume math, it seems it would affect it. So when you add oil to a cylinder, the total volume of the cylinder goes down by a certain volume. When that cylinder volume goes down, ( piston going up) if the oil doesn't leave, the final compressed volume is reduced by the same ammount. That small percentage reduction in initial volume does not compensate at all for the large percentage change in final volume. So what you end up with is almost the same amount of air compressed into a significantly reduced final volume. And using the old equation pv=nrt if nothing changes but volume, a ratio would prove that total pressure would go up a whole hell of a lot. Kinda like this. (numbers are made up for ease.) 1000cc :100 cc = 10:1 1000cc-10cc : 100cc-10cc =11:1 compression. If your inital dry test was in spec I wouldn't fret.

 

OK^
1 question: if the rings were completely "shot" 1 would my comp still be in the 215-222 area ? I burn NO oil at all so did I kinda drop the ball on this diagnosis so to say

 

As Blackhalo explains when you do a wet test, by adding fluid to the cylinder you also increase the compression ratio. Hence the average compression numbers go up in all cylinders. However, in cylinders with ring leaks, the compression ratio does not increase as much, so the compression increase is smaller. My hunch is that the more fluid you add, the more potential for a big difference in compression results. But if you think you used the wrong procedure just do it again. It only takes 20 min. to do a compression test... Just make sure you use EXACTLY the same amount of oil in each cylinder.

 

My thread might have some of your answers and might interest you.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-integra-6/washed-out-piston-rings-how-long-can-i-drive-her-3127913/

 

say your thread a while back. I can by no means rip a block apart or pay to have it done will be re-doing wet test tomorrow with correct amount of oil this time. and post up the numbers.

 

I got my fingers crossed it goes better this time.

 

Thanks sadly this happened before I could even try https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-integra-6/schrader-valve-stuck-spark-plug-well-need-help-3146898/

 

hang on, burns no oil?

you need to do a warm compression test. oil in the cylinder will always raise compression numbers but does it more on a cold engine

get the engine to temp and do a compression test

i have NEVER seen an engine down substantially on compression that does not burn oil

 

The numbers I got dry where 215-225. wet was something crazy like 300. forgot to post dry numbers in OP my bad as some have said I think I did it wrong and scared myself lol. srs need help on the other thread tho !!!

 

If you pull the head and the bottom end apart, leaving the block in the car, you can unbolt the rods on the under side and slide the piston/rod out the top of the cylinder. You can hone the cylinders from the top and slide new pistons in, then bolt them back to the crank. Its a hassle to work around the crank, but is certainly possible.

 

on a scale of 1-10 how hard is that ? I consider pulling the head a 2 difficulty and a clutch job a 7-8. do I need to worry about main bearings or stuff like that or can I just unbolt,slide re-ring and maybe hone then bolt(TQ to spec) it all up


but I do think I just scared my self by "doing it wrong"

 

hang on yet again

300 with oil in there is NORMAL, especially if it was a decent amount of oil

220-240 dry is also normal for a usdm gsr

before you tear your motor apart do a manifold vacuum test. if one cylinder is down on compression you will see flutter in the gauge. this tests takes 30 seconds and is very easy. you simply put the gauge on a vacuum line and watch

if the needle is stable you don't have a wide variance of compression

based on your posts you do not have the skill to re assemble the engine correctly and even if you did, i'm not seeing signs of anything wrong yet

 

which vac line would you recommend ? and just unplug it on the non ITM side. ya I don't trust my self to try and pull the pistons out anytime soon.

 

don't pull the fuel reg! brake booster can work, your iacv line from the manifold could work. basically anything except the fuel pressure vacuum line. where your pcv enters the intake manifold is another good one. whatever source you pull make sure it goes directly to the intake manifold unobstructed

harbor freight sells accurate vacuum gauges for $10, worth having in the tool box.

just make sure you have a decent seal so the engine idles correctly and gives you a good reading on the gauge

do this test with the engine warm

 

changing the rings aren't that hard. if you can pull a head and set the timing you can swap out piston rings. just make sure you take your time and have a piston ring compressor. good luck on the other thread. i would say drill it and use an extractor. that should do the trick.

 

If you're comfortable pulling the head and reinstalling it, that's half the battle. From there you need to pull the oil pan and girdle... Find an extension, unbolt the rods, push the pistons out the top of the cylinder, clean them, put new rings on, hone the cylinders (autozone lends cylinder hones), reinstall the pistons and slap it back together...You'll need to order new rod bearings, but conviniently there's only 1 size unlike the 4-5 different versions of crank journal bearings.

If you're patient and capable of keeping things clean, its a fairly simple process, albeit time consuming. Get some nitrile gloves, search the FAQ for the engine rebuild How To and get to work. I totally winged it my first time with the aide of the forums and that engine is still going strong (built LS/VTEC @ ~400whp)