Hey guys, i bought a new project Civic, off a friend so I know what was done to it. It was black from the factory, but when he bought it with rust, he cut out the rust, used bondo, krylon primer, and then krylon satin black paint.

*it doesnt look this good anymore*


I am now considering cutting out the rear quarter panels and welding in new metal because he did a poor job at retaining the body line arches, and also giving the car atleast a half decent paint job.

Is it impossible to spray over the krylon paint with any sort of quality paint? Ive done a little research and one thread I came across was over cleaner, of all things, aparently will remove the krylon easily instead of hours of sanding.

This is a low budget daily driver, so Im not looking to spend over $500 really on this, my time being free. I already have a compressor and 2 paint guns if needed.

Just curious for some advice on how I should go about tackling this

 

in for answers on this, my eg i picked up last summer was paint krylon green. personaly i like the color but being outdoors it has began to fade. i sanded the rear trunk with 400 grit, that was also rattled canned krylon, and shot some SEM trim black i had lying around and it turned out horrible. the old krylon that was left just started to peel off all gunky like:/ i have read oven cleaner and elbow grease will remove it but then u would still have to sand and prep all over again. i was kind of thinking of just scuffing it all and reshooting with the same krylon paint again..jmo

 

What type of paint would negatively react to the krylon paint?

 

SEM brand over krylon is no bueno; proven fact

 

Any types?

 

It's best to sand all the spray paint off. Some paints have bad reactions on aerosol paint, I had EK that was Krylon pistachio and had someone sand and paint it. Where he didnt sand all the krylon off the paint began to flake.

 

Stripping that is gonna be a Royal pain... Stay away from SEM Brand as mentioned, and do a test area with your brand of choice. Start with primer obviously and sand the crap out of the krylon. Good luck man.

 

Get a da sander with some +/- 150 grit and go to town. That'll take it off in no time.


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the SEM brand isnt bad, it's just reacting to crap paint

 

I dont think I have the time or patienece to sand all the old paint off. Im just not a body person.

I found John Deere Blitz Black paint that I would like to try, its an Enamel paint though is that going to have any sort of ill effect ontop of scuffed krylon/spray can primer (doing small body work)

 

If you don't prep the surface properly no paint job will look good. If you get a da sander it won't take very long to get the other stuff off.


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I dont want to remove all of the windshield and window mouldings etc when I paint it. its that budget. So there no way Im going to be able to sand right to the perfect edge of the rubber mouldings

I was planning on taping them off well and just spraying to the edge, instead of under and then reinstalling the mouldings

 

You could have all the spray paint off in 1 day with a DA sander and some 400grit. Just finish up around the moldings by hand.

 

^^ exactly

 

remove all of the crappy spray bomb best way I tell ppl yet it is messy. Gun wash harsh solvent will do the trick this is why 50 dollar paint jobs are never a good idea stop being cheap ppl

 

Take it all off with some 400, anything lower your gonna have to prime, If you aren't patient try to have a friend help you but don't try to go a back way to fix it, do it right once and once only. An enamel will do something like a single stage paint, it will look good for a couple weeks than start to look bad.

 

What if you use plastidip? Would that work? Then if you hate it, it peels right off. Cheap to do.

 

Not sure how well plastdip would hold up

 

Your gonna need a DA no doubt, I am in the same position right now and I spent a night sanding by hand, got some of it off. I went out and got a harbor freight DA and tried it but my air compressor wasn't powerful enough to run it. Even with the under powered air compressor it was taking of the spray paint sooooo easy. So I am going to fix my air compressor problem an go to town. This is the reason I hate all of these cheap paint jobs, it makes things ten times harder when trying to paint.

 

If you don't want to remove all the moldings then don't even bother trying to repaint it. This is one of those jobs where if you don't do it 100% then you are shooting yourself in the foot and wasting money. If you leave any spray paint under there it could cause the new paint to crack or fisheye.

If you are really persistent and still want to paint it without removing the moldings and stripping it properly with a DA then at least shoot some epoxy sealer over it first, that MIGHT save your *** but it's still a gamble I wouldn't take and don't be mad if it doesn't work out.

 

Krylon like most rattle can paint is crap and will cause you problems in the future so the only thing you can do is remove it all.

I would suggest 200 grit wetsand if doing it by hand or a da sander and 180 grit.

You will need to sand it anyway to apply the primer.

After you have removed as much as you possibly can do all of your body work.

Then use a urethane primer surfacer and apply a good 5 coats with half overlaps as you paint.

Once the car is in primer you can complete the rest of your finish work

I would suggest that you get an acrylic enamel with hardener at minimum and a better choice is a urethane kit that has basecoat clear coat.

Some people like Kirker and others like www.paintforcars.com

I can say that the Paint For Cars paint is of good quality and use the 5 star clear.

Total cost should be about $250 for paint and supplies and you can get a good respirator at harbor freight for $20.

You will need a can of wax and grease remover it is expensive but you need to wipe down before you apply your primer and then before you apply your base coat.. but not between your base coat and clear coat.

remember don't paint in full sun and never paint or apply bondo to a car that is hot to the touch .. its summer so you got to keep that in mind .. paint before lunch is the best situation for a do it yourselfer.

and don't let tree sap get on it .. pull it into a garage after you paint.

good luck

 

First off, stripping off all of that spray paint is almost a must if you want a decent quality paint job when you respray the car... it may take a little while, but it's worth it. Do the job once, do it right.

This is a pretty good run down on the different steps. Only things I would add is to prep for primer with a minimum of 180 grit, prep for base color with a minimum of 600 for solids and 800 for metallic colors. Would also like to add that using a tack cloth between primer and your color coat will give you a better shot of getting less dirt in your paint as well.

+1 on the wax and grease remover. The cleaner your surface, the better.

AND after you paint it, as stated... watch out for tree sap, and bird ****. Both will eat away at new paint. Clean bugs off with a detail spray that is safe for fresh clear (call your local auto body supplier to find out what you can use), and don't put any wax products on it for a good 3 months after. I know it sounds like a lot of rules and directions, but all of this will make your car look great for a good amount of time.