to start i had another username i guess i didnt use it enough but ive been using this site for along time you guys are alot of help to me already

well this is my first build my dads helped me alot on the assembly so props to him, im posting this to ***** out some pics and to ask for advice about my specific build ive got the motor in the car and im gonna break it in before i turbo it im also in the middle of a move so progress is slow no thanks to my current financial stand point.....*puts on flame suit*
here goes hopefully picks work lol

gsr block
stock sleeves all fresh machine work
81.5 9:1 wiseco pistons
eagle h beams
moroso pan and pickup tube
new oem oil and water pump
gates blue timimg belt

gsr head
stock valves 3angle vj stock ports
stock gsr cams/gears
brian crower dual valve springs n retainers
blox intake mani
arp studs
inlinepro ss log turbo mani

cc stage 4 clutch
aluminum half rad

precision turbo 5858 just purchased (no more ebay snail)
tial wastegate and tial bov( have no idea on condition or if they are real name brand)
intercooler and piping i dont know if they are name brand but i will upgrade later

mickey t 8.5x24.5 slicks ...overkill?

p28 with neptune rtp board
lc-1 wideband(i think its that model)
and a tunerview 2 display for all guages

currently i have a ebay turbo i got it for basiclly free i know i know, im not sure about it either, like i said im here for advice also keep in mind im on a tiny budget,
i know im missing things like injectors and how to tune my setup maybe someother things so let me know what you think where i could improve

things floating around my mind
silver surfer turbo/turbo under $900
880cc precsion injectors,
tuning myself (lol i know)


also id like to be a quick street car, drive on the weekends and still make low eleven passes or break tens idk lol
















havnt had those wheels in a while

hope thes pics work correctly

 

Good job on the engine build. If you want to use a Chinese (Ebay) turbo more power to you. I would not however use an Ebay wastegate. A stuck wastegate will ruin your day real quick!

Your engine seems mechanically sound, the power potential is in the turbo, the reliability is in the tune, and supporting parts.

 

Nice build! But ditch the Chinese turbo. Just think about it, you spent a lot of time and money on that motor so why use a half *** part?

 

You're off to a good start, but def ditch the ebay snail. You'll need in the neighborhood of 500whp to bust low 11s or high 10s so I don't advise you to tune that yourself being a first time tuner and all. And I personally wouldn't push stock sleeves that hard.

 

as far as the turbo goes would it be a bad idea to run it on low boost till finances allow a better turbo?
im getting very eager just to drive the thing i might just drive it na for a while if i need to. what turbo would yall suggest for my goals? ive looked at the silver surfer idk how much that one is but ive heard lots of good things about them here, ive also looked at some of precisions entry level turbos.
also is there a way to see if my wastgate is legit? and what condition its in? i know its used but idk the guy i got it from so ya know how that goes.
also with neptune rtp i really got it because i wanted to learn to tune myself i know initially i was gonna have some one else tune it the first time but how hard will it be to learn to tune?
if i tuned on race gas to achieve 500hp would the the race gas be easier on the sleeves?
or am i thinking about it all wrong?

 

Everything looks good. For the "run the eBay turbo on low boost" statement, that doesn't necessarily work. I ran a eBay turbo at 10psi and it ended up having so much shaft play that it started eating the compressor housing, therefor metal shavings were going into the motor. Then I spun a bearing, luckily it was a stock block and I had planned to build a different block. But with your motor, I wouldn't even risk it.

But for turbo selection, it's all about your power goals. If you want low 11s or possibly break into the 10s you'll most likely need around 500whp to get there like stated before. I would suggest the PTE 5858 JB turbo if that's what your looking for. They are $800 from AFI Turbo. It will give you a nice streetable powerband and it'll reach 500whp no problem. It will also give you a little room to grow if you want to make a little more power in the future. But there are countless turbos out there that you can buy new or used that will get the job done.

You've came this far, wait a little longer and save up some cash to get yourself something other than that Chinese oversized paper weight. Good luck with the build!

 

well if thats the case i really dont mind waiting,
im reading a couple threads on the 5858 sounds like a great choice,
im also looking at pte's site n was drawn towards the 5531, and the 5831 both msrp at $647 wich is a little cheaper than the 5858 it sounds like,
would there be a big differnce in spool time vs peak power in the 3 different turbos, i cant seem to find there flow rate
it seems that they are all capable of 500hp
is it true that my sleeves could be a limiting factor at that point?
i dont really want more than 550hp i dont have the budget for it, stock sleeves will stay.
as far as gas i dont wanna drive it everyday and from what i understand the rtp board can switch between 2 maybe 3 differnt tunes, with race gas or e85 and a turbo similar to the ones mentioned, would 500hp be asking to much for my sleeves, and supporting mods?

also any good tuners to go to in las vegas area?

 

http://realstreetperformance.com/sto...ring-1759.html

i was looking at this but im not sure what its limits are? i think for the size it would spool nicely?

i was also looking at the precision 3431e entry level turbo

another i think i really like
http://www.go-autoworks-store.com/gat360tr.html i dont think its much different than th 57trim

anyone else think 500hp is to much on stock sleeves?

 

That turbo will not make 500whp sir. I truly believe that you can make 500whp on the stock sleeves but you have to understand it is like playing craps though. You must be prepared to crack a sleeve as the stock sleeves are hit or miss if you plan on pushing the stock sleeves past 500whp. Some people crack sleeves with less than 500whp. Your tune must be spot on therefore I do not recommend you tuning it yourself if you do not have the experience or knowledge. Also when going past 450whp I would suggest running race gas like c16 which has great knock resistance as detonation will crack the stock sleeves. You also should keep your redline below 8800rpm because it has been proven that high RPMs and high whp crack stock sleeves.

I am also running stock sleeves and I made 500whp on c16. Here is my build thread below.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/2000gsrtypers-b18c1-gsr-build-3067031/

 

nice build 2000gsr i hope mine turns out like yours

what about a 6262 jb? to big? would the 5858 or the 5857 be better on the low end of the powerband?

is there a huge difference between the 5858 and 5857?

btw why am i only seeing precision turbos? lol are they just cheaper for the size? or am i crazy?

 

the best wife in the world gave me the go ahead on the pte 5858

any last min suggestions?

i decided the 6262 was to big for my goal of 500hp

 

well I just ordered the the 5858 thank you shawty22 for the advice on that I hope its good choice

im moving to vegas and havnt found a tuner close to that area, would cali be my best bet?

also I need to know if theres anyway to see if my wastegate is in good working condtion without putting it on the car? same for bov

I also had to put a new tps sensor on the throttle body I need to figure out how to make sure its sending the correct voltage I need to find a thread on that,

 

had a couple more pics of progress hopefully the turbo gets here before i move otherwise my wife will have to bring it to me

sorry for crappy phone pics

comp stage 4 sprung





tuning stuff

 

well i havnt updated in a while been adjusting to the move heres a couple updates someone should really let me know how to find out if theres a good way to test my wastegate and bov I don't wanna pop this motor,

oh btw I went to ldl speed shop here in vegas and he said my setup would max around 400 horses, he also said my turbo was very small for 500hp I think I might wanna go elsewhere idk
the engine bay is kinda a mess right now trying to figure out wiring the wideband also trying to figure out the tuning software
still need to turn the turbo around I had a downpipe that I tried to make work but im gonna need a different one I really don't wanna spend the money on a custom one but we will see

 

I don't understand stock cams with aftermarket springs and retainers

Serves 0 purpose unless you have a cam upgrade planned in the future.

 

want boost.. You dont understand? Perhaps this post will shed some light for you. https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/why-did-i-drop-valve-post-mortem-pics-3148127/

And BTW, you do not need 500whp to run 11's. hell, you dont even need 400whp to run 11's. nope not even 300whp..
Your 5858 will be fine. Set the car up for a 4000-8000rpm car and you will be fine. Invest in some good tires and you will have a fun car. good luck. and follow the KISS method. Do not over complicate things because you see someone else run it or build it that way.

 

....strong post to knowledge ratio.

 

tires are 24.5x8 mt slicks

cams will eventually find their way in there, thank you for your concern,

so ive been looking for a tuner in the vegas area and it seems everyone would rather sell me hondata i have done alot of research and the neptune seems to be a great piece im kinda at a loss as to what i need to do or who i need to get in touch with

 

why no timing belt covers?

 

Thats what I figured.

And to the two that quoted my post, boost levels/airflow his motor will see wont have an effect on actual spring rate.
.also revving higher than a stock-ish redline isnt needed on his setup, especially with a 5858 or however precision labels their **** these days lol

 

If the OP were not boosting this car and driving it like a commuter, you would be right. However, springs fatigue over time. Extended trips to stock redline will only accelerate this process as will boost above 8 psi. Plus, the previous history of most springs are unknown. Not replacing them is playing with fire whether he was going with an aftermarket cam or staying within the stock redline.