Ive always wanted to install arp rod bolts, so perfect time right?

What should I replace while the block is apart? I am having a buddy of mine do the work since he has a machine shop, but I am trying to get a total understanding of it and want to know what parts I should purchase.

piston rings
main bearings
thrust bearings
rod bearings
arp rod bolts
I was told to buy a new crankshaft since I'm pushing a lot of power? (300whp)

Am i missing anything? (oil/wp are new) I also would like to push my redline up a bit. I am redlining at 7,000rpms in third and 6500rpms in fourth. Would upgrading my rods allow me to rev higher? Thinking about buying eagles. I would love to hit close to 8k since my power keeps building. I will keep my stock pistons. I'm sure some of you guys will say get pistons too, but really I can't add another $400 onto my budget

Thanks for any replies

 

OEM crank is good for 350-400whp, But someone correct me if im wrong.

what block are you using? Upgrading rods without new pistons will be fine. Should be able to rev to 8k all day everyday. I rev my stock block b20z to 8k.

 

hello fellow washingtonian!

I know the crank is good for the power, but I was informed the crank can be damaged from the bad bearing, and perhaps weakening it.

b18b1

stock b20 to 8k? how much power though?

 

People have ran up to 600whp on a stock crank. If your crank if fudge up then I would look into another one

 

A spun rod bearing will typically score the crank pretty badly. You could have it ground and magnafluxed, but it would probably be less expensive to just find another used crank in good condition.

 

All advice given thus far is misinformed. Ignore them.

It will cost more than it is worth to use upgraded rods on stock pistons. With do them both or nothing at all.

Honda cranks have been used in 1,000+whp builds.

Rev limits in these engines are determined by rod bolts, valve train, and in higher circumstances balancing.

Honda cranks are so sensitive to machining due to the heat treating process, it is highly recommended they are NOT turned down. If the damage is more than a polish can clean up, get another one.

Most of the time a rod knock fatigues the rod. If it is discolored, due to your application, I would find a replacement rod. A rod hone on all 4 rods may get you into the same clearances if it is out of round, but do you really want to do this again? If you don't have $400 to do it right, then either wait until you do or rethink your current situation.

 

Thanks for the reply. I've decided I can get some decent deals on rods and pistons on here, so I will be purchasing both.

I want to keep my valve train stock. How high do you think I could rev safely once I install the rods/pistons? I will work on the head down the road.

 

Stock valvtrain = stock rev limit in my opinion. The most I would push it is 200-300rpm over stock. Even then, it isn't worth dropping a valve and being much worse off than you were before.

 

Agreed, especially when you have extra positive pressure pushing against the intake valve.

 

The Nitriding treatment can go as deep as .020" to .030" depending on the duration of the process. Therefor it is possible to cut a Honda crank and still keep the hardening intact. However two points - 1.) the cost of cutting the crank is usually as much or more than replacing it with a used crank 2.) The availability of undersized bearings is extremely limited. I think ACL offers 1 undersized bearing. Therefore it’s not worth fixing cranks unless the damage is minor and you have a lot of money into the crank.

 

You are correct when you say they CAN. They aren't all that way as I have witnessed early B16 crankshafts only be hardened to 0.012-0.015" and most of the time a bearing failure requires a 0.010" machining for the next bearing size. Everything verified with hardness testing. Still, for a factory crankshaft it is pretty good to have.