I install a new rad and new slim fan. Warmed car up for a long time took for test run and never went on.

What connector is what.

I ended up snipping the green connector off old fan, and spliced in so I can plug the green to green. 1st pic is what I am running.

I just never seen the fan go on, I did put 12v from a power pack I have to the fan and it worked.

I also waited with a volt meter on the other end of green plug and waited to see voltage and nothing.

car warmed up was about in the middle of my temp gauge. half way, I remember it used to run slightly cooler but this time around I am not sure.

I would hate to be working under the hood and the rad or a hose pop with hot coolant.

 

Check the fuse. I had the same issue and I popped the fuse when I was installing.

 

If fuse is good, then put a jumper wire in the radiator fan switch connector.
On the stock engine it is on the back of the block near the oil filter.
It's the big black plug with two wires in it... goes to the two prong switch shown in this picture.


Turn the car ON (not running) and the fan should run.
If it DOES run, then replace the switch/sensor.

If it does NOT run, then connect the wires in the connector to a good ground source.
If it DOES run, then you have a bad ground at the thermostat housing.
NOT running, then your fan relay.

 

I checked the fuses and everything is good.

I will check it all again just so I know- Today is going to be warmer so It will be a good day to do the test again and make sure it works. I did bench test fan so it does work with the 12v.

Also will try the other test with the relay.

By the pics my connector (green one) is correct? I should not have any problems.. It was a simple splice

 

It is likely either a short between the radiator fan switch on the back of block and the fan, or the fan switch is bad or reading out of range.

 

Just got done messing around with the car. Here Vtec not working.

Code 22 is poping off. I checked the sensors I have 12v to the switch and the plunger or other one has a OHM reading of 17 across a ground to body.

I dont know if its related to the fan and cooling. I was about to dissasemble the vtec assembly on the side of the engine and check the filter.

All the sudden it just does not go into vtec and I am stumped. I am about to read the books and look my manuals over I have home here.


Only other soloution would be check the filter for a block or clog. I just changed the oil and no VTEC

 

Everything fixed pulled out the 1000 page acura manual.

I had a bad connection @ the switch. fixed it. Changed oil heated it up, ran it for a while.

Bro helped me. He watched the fan kick on so that **** is over with tracing sensors and probing wires. It worked before... you know should have still worked. Its just the Fluidyne or something works amazing with the 2 inch core. keeps everything cool. I measured my bros Ebay radiator and its 1 1/2 inch core. My fluidyne is thick. So I assume its doing its job well. I ended up dumping the clutch at 4-5k well into vtec and got alot of wheel spin and jump. car lunged forward and bulled like a bitch to the one side.

Some one ended up calling so I was up against cops and yesterday was just not a good morning anyway for that. Took it for a quick blast and kinda screwed up doing the large burn out.

Header was a great addition, notice a small increase in power and new noises. Intake is pulling hard as **** and is super loud as is- when vtec starts to crack. Buddy club cams are pretty wild.

Getting back into the honda...

 

vtec doesn't crack, it engages. that is all

 

You know what I mean!

 

I have done the following checks below posted by 4drEF and the fan is still not working. -Hooked fan to the battery - work
Changed fuse
Jumped the radiator fan switch connector = fan worked so I replaced the radiator switch connector. Started the engine with the radiator cap off, waited for the fan to come on but no luck.
Replaced relay and fan is still not working. What else could it be? Thanks for your help.

 

So you can short the connector that goes to the thermo-switch and the fan works.
When you plug the connector into the thermo-switch, the fan doesn't come on.

There is only one variable there - the thermo-switch.
Is it possible that the water in the block is not getting hot enough to trigger the thermo-switch?

 

My VTAK CRACKED, yo!!!!!!!!

 

Thanks for the feedback, 4drEF.

So the test I did with the radiator cap off, run the engine until warm and the fan should come on is not good enough to turn the water hot in the block to a point where it triggers the thermo-switch? Is there another way to test it? FYI, I noticed the fan wasn't working after I pulled into my garage last week. Coolant was oozing out of the top of the reservoir. When I was driving home, I did not see the temperature gauge so I don't think it was above normal operating temperature. Thanks

 

You can slowly bring the thermo switch to a boil on a stove, wait for continuity between the terminals and check the temperature of the water at this point. Should be around 190*F. If the switch has continuity at that temperature, and not below then your switch is fine.

If you've jumped the connectors like 4dref mentioned and your fan runs, then your coolant isn't getting hot enough to trigger the fan.

 

I've always had a hard time getting the engine to get hot enough to trigger the cooling fan to engage just standing still in my driveway. If you cannot get it to run hot enough, try giving it a little gas for 60 second intervals or so. I usually run it no higher than 2000 rpms, just enough to get the juices flowing, so to speak.

 

I'll try it today after work. Thanks for all the feedback.

 

Here's another question....

The thermo-switch connection wires - Black and Yellow/Green
Does it matter which one is connected to the thermo-switch top or bottom? When I removed the original thermo-switch, the connection looked like the black wire to the bottom and yellow/green to the top. Initially, I installed the wires this way - black wire to the bottom and yellow/green to the top but the fan didn't come on so I reversed it but still no luck with the fan. Thanks

 

Nope doesn't matter.

 

It's ALIVE!!! Thanks for all your feedback, the fan is working now. I revved the engine up to 2000 rpm for about 60 seconds and waited. Before I got into the car for a second try at 2000 rpm, the fan turned on. I've driven this car daily since November 1991 when I bought it brand new and not once has it left me stranded on the road. Even this recent overheat happened after I got home so she's family. And to be able to fix it on my own with all your help is really gratifying. Cheers!