So I have read all the post regarding the compensator bolt that rusts to the bushing sleeve making it impossible to remove from the frame side. Well during a trailing arm bushing fix, I have the rusted bolt/sleeve issue. I can spin the bolt but it only pushes the mounting flange outward. My question is...Is the only way to remove it to cut the bolt on both sides. I have tried PB Blaster and no-go. Is a sawzall with a metal cutting blade the way to go? Any helpful hints would be greatly appreciated. Attached is the bolt with the arrow pointing to it.

1999 Civic ES

 

Start cutting. Get a metal blade for that sawzall.

 

Isnt there a nut that will fall into the actual frame of the car requiring you to use a metal hole saw blade to cut into the underside to access it? I would honestly at least try an impact before going through all the trouble.

Here is a good thread: https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/compensator-arm-question-pic-how-fix-broken-bolt-2076074/

 

Using an impact will actually force the slide nut out of its slot. That's the mistake most people make. Because the bushing sleeve is rusted to the bolt, as you rotated it, the bolt/sleeve acts like a turn buckle, forcing the slide nut back into the area that's inaccessible. Once it pops out of the slot, you're screw. It's a really bad design. I was hoping someone had another idea besides a sawzall.

 

If you use an impact wrench and actually get the arm off you can just use a magnet and/or clothes hanger combination to get the bolt back.

 

Before you start cutting, why not try a torch?

Rust and metal have different thermal expansion rates. The heat will break the rust up. Then, use an impact or a normal wrench with a lot of PB Blaster (after letting it cool) to SLOWLY work the bolt out.

Back it out a small amount, spray, and run it back in. Back it out a small amount more, spray, and run it back in. Repeat.

It worked great for all of my rusted suspension bolts.

 

CX Adam
I was trying not to do that as the heat will destroy the rubber bushings in the compensator arm (they likely need replacing anyway). But I guess I will give the torch a go and see if I can loosen the bolt from the sleeve. What a pain!!!

 

Yeah, I understand that. OEM Honda bolts aren't cheap though, either. If you need another compensator arm, I have one I can send you. Try and keep from directly impinging flame on the bushing. You might be ok.

 

Rather then letting the bolt cool normally, heat it up with the torch then immediately spray it with pb blaster or something similar. Doing this retains the temper of the metal so it doesn't become soft and snap. Each time after spraying it, try to work it out little by little but don't use enough force to snap it. Patience is key here. I've used this method on seized suspension bolts and brake bleeders that hadn't been opened in over a decade with harsh NW winters and salt. Took a couple cycles of doing it but the bolts did eventually come out.

 

I would think the PB is either going to evaparte or burn with the bolt still glowing. I'd let it cool first OP use an oxy acetylene torch not one of those little propane ones.(if you have acces to one)

 

You can spray it on there after it cools from being cherry red, but don't let it cool completely. Letting it cool down slowly WILL weaken the metal. Any oil will work, PB Blaster is just handy. It keeps the temper of the metal so tha the head doesn't snap off on you or tweak the bolt. Hot metal = soft metal.