My 90 Civic LX has a Mitsubishi AHGA03 alternator with a regulator that outputs 19 volts. I do NOT want any half-assed rebuilt from Autozone. Here is the replacement piece.

What is involved in putting that in? Near as I can tell from Youtube vids, a Mitsubishi does NOT open from the rear and the entire drum/stator assy. needs to be taken apart, correct? The brushes are already replaced on the unit so what I want to know is what other soldering would be involved in this swap? Reason I'm asking is I am trying to determine if the swap can be done right inside the engine compartment. I can't get the damn thing out of the friggin' car.

So... your experience doing this job would be appreciated, thank you.

 

i just did this annoying job apart from actually replacing the regulator. first things first forget about doing the job in place. i'm guessing the lower bolt is your main pita. i suggest jacking the car up quite high and accessing this bolt from underneath. it really is a pita the first time around because this bolt tends to get stuck pretty badly especially if it's been a long time since it was last removed.
once the alternator is out, all you need to do is open this mother up and tap out its insides using a BFH. it's quite a tedious job but nothing too hard if you're handy with a spanner.
take care of the brushes and good luck

 

That's no help since I'm crippled and not jacking anything nor getting under anything. Research shows a consensus of moving the master cylinder out of the way after removal of [2] 12mm mounting nuts, allowing lift out of complete alternator. So it's that way or no way.

 

You still have to get under the car to get at the through bolt, and they can be extremely miserable. In Texas it shouldn't be so bad. Up here with the snow and road salt normally those mitsubishi alternators come out in pieces.

The last shitsubishi alternator I removed:

 

Wow, I would expect rust but to break the aluminum case on the alternator? Nice damage.

 

I hit the bolt a few times and the case cracked, at that point I just broke the rest of the case around the bolt, I finished the last part off with an air chisel.

I have hit the bolt before and they just fall apart like that without beating on the case though. I've also had the cast iron bracket break a couple of times where the through bolt goes through the ears as well. Steel has a nasty tendency to seize in aluminum. Salt makes the aluminum more or less turn to powder. All in all it sucks, half the time you don't get your core charge back.

 

TITLE OF THREAD: Need DETAILS on a Mitsubishi voltage regulator swap

I specifically asked for DETAILS on REGULATOR SWAP, not ALTERNATOR REMOVAL. If you have NOT done one... I know everyone on the planet seeks attention BUT you really should not be wasting my time... wash your hands, go to church or a bar and pick up a GIRL.

As for the photos above, I wouldn't let you fix me a sandwich. There's no excuse for that kind of damage and you really have NO clue what you're doing.

1/2" Craftsman on the nut with a breaker bar extension from ABOVE the engine, hood open. Crippled besides, you don't know what you're doing, besides crack.

 

You asked if you could remove the alternator without getting under the car. You can't. And yes actually I have had these things apart and know what's involved in replacing a regulator. You have to split the case (4 bolts) and then you'll need to carefully tap around the case where it meets the winding. There are 4 wires coming off the winding that are soldered the regulator, it's very straight forward. If you're looking for clearer directions it's actually in the shitty $20 Haynes manual you can pick up just about anywhere.

No, you sir are the one who doesn't have a clue. You have no idea what road salt does to aluminum components. If you're in Texas you've probably never seen it happen. That's a very common occurrence here. You may still have a problem getting that through bolt out since steel will tend to fuse to aluminum anyway, but obviously it wont be that bad.

I don't think I've ever seen such a miserable, ungrateful dick in my life.

 

That says a lot.

 

**** OFF, you did NOT read the TITLE of the thread... did you?

ADMIT IT, you've NEVER done a REGULATOR SWAP, have you? TELL THE TRUTH!


AGAIN.... shut the hell up, I did it myself.

DETAILS OF REGULATOR SWAP

If you didn't know how to do one, you should have just MOVED ON. It has NOTHING to do with "ungrateful". Suppose you asked for a banana and I gave you a lemon?

 

NO... actually the first responder started leading the thread in another direction and that's not what I was after to begin with.

Actually, I do since I've lived on a boat for 4 years and the zincs need replacement every 6 months. I did NOT ask about road salt though, did I?

See PHOTO ABOVE: Why are there NO rub marks on the head of the through-bolt where a socket and ratchet was used in an ATTEMPT to remove it properly? Hey... I'm CRIPPLED and removed mine with a 1/2" Craftsman and breaker bar, what's your excuse "94EG8"? Wow, sounds like a Star Wars droid! Obviously from that photo, NO attempt was made on the HEAD OF THE NUT because there are no rub marks left from the friction of a socket.


So did the TITLE OF THE THREAD! What the HELL is wrong with you people?
You did finish HIGH SCHOOL, right? Because here in Texas, most don't.
Suspect that's the issue, ignorance and an unwillingness to admit you're wrong.

Later guys...

 

If you want something done RIGHT, you need to do it yourself:

DETAILED REGULATOR SWAP

 

I guess we all imagined you asking this. And if he says he's done such a swap then he has. YOU'RE the one that has no clue so you'r in no position to call anyone out on what they can or cannot do.

By far you have GOT to have the absolute worst attitude of anyone that has ever posted on this forum. Bar none. Let's see how much help you get after you showed your *** like a baboon at the zoo.

 

THEN STOP RESPONDING, ********!

 

Yeah, we're done here.