Need help please, any ideas? I tried a 1/2" drive 6 foot cheater bar, snapped two 3/8" drive ratchets, soaked it with rust inhibitor, tried heating it up, and the starter trick,has yet to crack! Thanks

 

Bigger breaker bar with 3/4" drive or bigger

 

i put my car on stands, put the special tool on it, then the 1/2" racket and deep socket, spin it till the tool is against the frame, set the racket pointing down, and kick the **** outa it till it breaks loose.

 

Try a 1/2 drive heavy duty impact and try to work it loose the vibration will eventually help get it loose as well. Or try getting a big cheater pipe attached to the breaker bar for added leverage. Good Luck

 

I've never understood how most people seem to have such a time with the crank pulley bolt. I'm fully aware that it's on there, to about 185ftlbs IIRC, but I own the honda tool and I almost never use it. I just throw my 1/2" impact on it at about 110psi and the bolt comes right out. Maybe I'm just lucky all the time, but I doubt that.

OP, what are you removing the crank pulley bolt for? Engine swap?

 

I finally busted this f*****g thing loose I rigged up a tool to keep it from turning and it worked well, I used a 7 foot cheater bar with a 1/2" drive...I am removing it to change the timing belt, I just swapped a z6 head.

Now that I got my new timing belt on, it is too tight to reach around all sprockets, so I was trying to adjust the tensioner, and 2 minutes later the bolt for the tensioner is rounded completely stripped...

Any suggestions, and it's frustrating because it only has to be loosed up about two hairs.

 

get those bolt extractor socket things.

I've had two different crank pulley bolts that wouldn't budge with 150psi on a 1" impact, so it does happen.

 

In regard to the tensioner, can you get to it with a good pair of vice grips? If not, pick up an extractor socket set for rounded off bolts and nuts. I have a set from snap on and it they work really well, but I can recommend this: http://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece...ets-67894.html because you can buy it, use it once, and return it no questions asked.

 

Use the special tool and a breaker bar. You do not want to use heat or especially an impact. I've learned the hard way. The impact can damage the main bearings and cause premature failure.

 

Ok I've tried vice grips, I bought an extractor set from sears they do not work for ****, it would not be so hard if it wasn't in a confined space cause then I could rig something up but why would it be so easy right?

 

I had the same problem on the tensioner bolt. I removed the driver side mount and lowered the engine some and hammered a 13mm on and it came of very easily.

 

Alright thanks for the tip ill give it a try tomorrow, this whole project is driving me nuts