Am I looking at this accurately?

TIMING:
D16Z6 stock ignition timing: 16BTDC

Advance the timing by tapping the distributor toward the firewall.
Retard the timing by moving it toward the front bumper.

The mark to the left of 16-BTDC is advanced at 18-BTDC.
The mark to the right of 16-BTDC is retarded at 14-BTDC.
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A/F:
Rich means more fuel than actually needed for a "clean" burn.
Stoich (stoichemetric) means a perfect mixture of air and fuel.
Lean means there is not enough fuel, and too much air is NOT being ignited.

Ignition timing (timing) and A/F ratio are two different things, however...

Retarding the ignition richens the A/F ratio.
Advancing the ignition leans the A/F ratio.

Clarification: the A/F ratio measured is not the atmosphere existing within the combustion chamber pre-ignition, but post combustion, for example: o2 sensor readings, or emissions sample.

 

What are you confused about?

 

Just wrapping my head around the interconnectedness of these systems.

And my HC and CO were on the high side on my emissions test. Figure if I advance the timing to 18, in theory it should bring them down.

 

Your HC and CO will go down since it's burning then up but your nox will go up since you will have a increase temperature

 

what year is the vehicle?

 

if you have high hc and co your cat is probably failing, or you have a significant fuel system problem. I'd be more worried about that than your base timing.

 

Well, I played around with timing and it did not make a big difference. I think you're on the right track about the fuel system. I already replaced the fuel filter and tested fuel pressure, confirming pressure is correct and that the regulator is functioning.

The CAT and o2 sensor are both new.

I'm thinking injectors. I am running without a resistor box, perhaps I am running low impedance injectors... Would such an improper setup produce a rich condition? How could I tell, visually, if the injectors were high or low?

 

I just tried to put obd0 injector clips onto my current injectors and they do not fit. So that's not the problem.

I am at a loss.

The dizzy is new, as are the plugs. TPS has recently been calibrated. Perhaps my o2 sensor is not working properly. Or I wired it incorrectly. Any other ideas? I am getting crappy mileage. No CEL.

 

I am inspecting my harness, starting with the injectors to re-check my work.

injector 1. brown
injector 2. red
injector 3. blue
injector 4. yellow

The original harness was obd0, I removed the resistor box and spliced the wires. Each injector wire is soldered direct wire for wire. The yellow/black power wire is soldered to the conjoined 4 yellow/black wires going to each injector.

Is this correct?

The second pic is to show the obd0 connector where all five wires route to on the driver side...

 

I also re-checked my wiring for the o2 sensor.

A Rywire conversion harness was used, which provides the wires for a 4 wire o2 sensor. The below info was provided by rywire

1. BROWN -- o2 Heater -- ecu A6
2. PURPLE -- o2 ground -- ecu D22
3. YELLOW -- o2 12v -- ecu A25
4. GRAY -- o2 signal -- ecu D14

I used a Denso o2 sensor (234-4209). It has raw wires, not a connector. I soldered each wire to the coinciding wire. I also checked the subharness connection to the ecu and each is pinned properly.

 

Everything looks to be done correct. Does anyone see anything wrong?

 

clearly it's rich as hell, you may have a bad injector. replace the main relay. you may have a vacuum leak causing the FPR not to reflex properly, and obviously throw off the MAP signal. The O2 could easily have a bad connection or too much resistance, or the heat circuit might be improperly wired. there's not much else we can do beyond that without inspecting the vehicle.