I did some search but I would also like a confirmation from others.

I drained and refilled the oil in January. Just got done replacing the ignition module and balance shaft seal with the bracket.

My oil looks brownish. Do I have a blown head gasket? Thanks

 

Cant tell anything from those pictures, you need the camera to focus on the dipstick. is it opaque or clear with a brownish tint to it? What does it look like out the bottom of the engine?

 

Yea sorry for the crappy piks. It's night already so took some now but also look crappy ill take more tomorrow . On the outside of the bottom engine is just old oil ,the whole engine is covered with old oil . Looks like previous owners didn't take care of it very well. It's not muddy but it feels like oil but brown colored.maybe a little watery

 

Doesn't look the best to me. Are you having to add coolant?

 

Yea . I fill up the radiator and it goes empty quick. I don't think that was normal but was gonna fix that later. I had it flushed in October of 2011 they said it was good,also bought a new radiator cap from autozone. Replaced a rear hose that went bad

 

I really hope I don't have a bad head gasket but I think I do

 

Its not all that difficult of a job, you just need to be aware of the general timing fuctions of your motor and how to do a valve adjustment afterwards.

 

Do I have to do the valve adjustment or does the machine shop do that ?

 

You can do it yourself with the correct tools.


https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/how-adjust-valves-your-f22-2477017/

 

The only way to be sure is to do a compression test. Make sure to remove the "ecu 30a" fuse in the engine fuse box before you test to disable spark and fuel. You may just have a radiator leak. Does your car run bad ? If you want, you can quickly remove each spark plug wire while the car is running to see if there is a change in how the car runs. Do it quickly. Just listen for a change in the rpms. It should rapidly change as you are taking one cylinder out of the equation. If there are no changes at any or all of the cylinders when you pull the spark plug wires then that cylinder is suspect. Do it quickly. Also you can possibly see coolant crystalizing on the spark plugs if there is coolant leaking into the combustino chamber as the engine is burning it up when it fires.

 

Who did your coolant flush and what products did they use exactly?

You need to start the vehicle and have someone watch the exhaust and have some follow you while driving to see if white smoke comes out with under heavy acceleration.

That oil looks far too milky to me. I'd say coolant is getting in your oil without a doubt.

 

Will try to this tomorrow.thanks

 

I have not done a coolant flush. I had my radiator flushed cause it was leaking so I took it to a shop to get the radiator fixed. Also replaced my cap for one from autozone. I plan on getting a new one just to get that out the list.

Is it safe to drive it? I know I can drive it but don't want to if its going to hurt the engine but will try your advice.

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/compres...kit-66216.html

This is all you need. Any parts store will sell one but I have this one. Under no circumstances use any of those adapters that come with it or can and will get stuck and it will scare you shitless trying to get it out. Trust me. lol

Just remove all your spart plugs, screw that thing in by itself you don't need the adapters for our cars, remove the "ecu 30a" fuse in the engine fuse box and put the gauge facing you in the car or have someone hold it (preferred method) and crank it until the gauge stops going up. Write that number down and move to all four cylinders. It's best to have all spark plugs removed to ease the starter(less resistance)

If they check out, then do an oil change, just buy the cheapest oil you can find but when you do the oil change use a cup to store a sample of the oil.

The reason for that is that you can go to blackstonelabs.com and they will send you a free kit for you to send your oil to them for $15 if you want and they will test your oil for you to see what's in it. This is only if you want to.

 

Now that I think of it, I think I have this one.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=487835_0_0_

Should be the same deal, 'though. You shouldn't need an adapter. Just check it if it's the same size as your spark plug thread it's good to go. You can just hand thread it it DOES NOT need to be any tighter than simply hand threading it.

 

See the green spot on the left of the photo just above the stick. Was the car parked there before the photo? Looking at the color I would say yes but that is not always the case. Does the oil feel watery when you rub it between your fingers? Does the car smoke when it is running? If so what is the color of the smoke, blue or a gray tint or white? Dump that oil like your doing an oil change into a clean empty container and see how much fluid comes out.!
If about 5qts comes out I would then do a coolent system pressure test. Since you said you have been adding it. Pump air in the system and see if the pressure drops. If it does drop look for a visible leak and see what you find. Make sure to look inside the passengers side floor under the dash. It could be the heater core that is leaking. You may be able to borrow one from Auto-dumb dumbs if not you can get them for around $120 at sears. Depending on what one you look at you may have to get a special adapter for it so keep that in mind if you go that way.

 

Might have to rent one for now since there is no funds at the time.

Would this tool also come in handy or no?

The block tester
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=391378_0_0_

 

I don't think that green part is coolant but will check it out later. I'll look into the passenger side floor to see if I have a leak, which I doubt but doesn't hurt to check. Will get the pressure tool also hopefully today

 

I did the compression test and I don't think the numbers were 100% correct due to this problem

http://

These were the numbers when I did the "dry test" #1 (closest to the drivers side) was 120 . # 1 was 100 . #2 was 100. #3 was 100 and #4 was 100

These were the numbers when I did the wet test #1 was 180 #2 was 110 #3 was 110 #4 was 110

 

My alternator belt also makes a squeaking noise when it's running and the alternator pulley gets really hot. Any info on that

Is my belt on right? Belt is new

 

Those numbers seem a little low but since they are all the same it would appear your engine is fine. I would do an oil change and check the oil after a few hundred miles or so.

Is your car running bad in any way ?

Your alternator belt might just be loose, it looks fine. On the longest side of the belt, you shouldn't be able to deflect by twisting the belt with your own fingers more than 90 degrees. If you can, then it's probably just loose. The alternator and it's pulley will get hot since it's sitting against the engine. If it's loose try tightening it up a bit and see if the squeak goes away. Furthermore, you can spray something such as WD-40 near where the belt goes to the pulley while the car is idling and if the sound goes away you know where the issue is. If it doesn't then perhaps the alternator pulley is freezing up.

 

Here 2 videos that wer taken after I fixed the squeaky alternator belt which also stopped the alternator pulley from getting hot. I took these videos around 6:00pm so it's kinda dark but it did look white but might have been from the cold. I'll take more tomorrow.

 

I'm not sure if those numbers were correct sine my car does not crank normal.
Like in the video


I haven't let my car run for more than 1 minute for a while. Tomorrow ima let it run to finally see if I have white smoke.

And I think my belt was loose and that problem was fixed,thanks

 

White smoke upon cold startup is completely normal. The white smoke should dissipate after a few inches...if it doens't dissipate for over 5 feet and doesn't go down after the car warms up is usually the indication of coolant leaking into combustion chamber.

 

That means I have a blown head gasket?