Opinions on the car and price?
http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/3562621883.html
I am new to the honda/acura scene....I know I'm a NOOB lol.
I am thinking of purchasing this GS-R and would like opinions on price and any other knowledge that can be thought of? I have read up specs and what not, but would this be a good purchase for a first time buyer? What should I look out for problems wise? I would appreciate all the feedback I can get and opinions. I do have a GF and two younger kids, so safety is an issue as well. On the other hand performance is a great deal to me as well.
Thank you for your time and consideration
I am new to the honda/acura scene....I know I'm a NOOB lol.
I am thinking of purchasing this GS-R and would like opinions on price and any other knowledge that can be thought of? I have read up specs and what not, but would this be a good purchase for a first time buyer? What should I look out for problems wise? I would appreciate all the feedback I can get and opinions. I do have a GF and two younger kids, so safety is an issue as well. On the other hand performance is a great deal to me as well.
Thank you for your time and consideration
run an autocheck. mileage is probably inaccurate. very VERY rare to see a 96 integra reading that low of mileage. still, it could be a deal for the right price. you can ask to do a compression test and manifold vacuum test. those two will tell you a whole lot about the health of the engine. many gsr's get sold when the engines start burning a lot of oil and the owners realize it's an expensive engine to replace
4dr's are worth a bit less than 3 but he's not too far off. if the engine has good compression and there are no major mechanical issues 2000-3700ish would be fair depending on what you find on the autocheck as well as the inspection. if that seems like a huge price gap, well, it is. all depends on what you find
it takes about 2 minutes to do a cluster swap in these cars. unless the docs are really solid assume every 90s honda has a cluster swap and inaccurate mileage. you have no idea how many low priced cars i've looked at around portland and had owners claim oh yea i never drove it etc. run the carfax and the mileage reads 198k then magically 108k a year later. a lot of sellers are stupid and have no idea how easy it is to catch mileage lies
everytime a car goes in for emissions mileage is recorded and picked up by autocheck and carfax
his english is also prime suspect. notice it says "the cluster reads..." not 'the car has" it amazes me how deceptive people always give tells even in ads. again i don't know the car and am not certain of it but that mileage was uncommon in 2006-2007. today it's REALLY uncommon unless it's an old lady car that's sat in the garage. most of those are likely to be automatic LS's
17 years at 12k miles per year is 204k miles which is just an average, a lot of people drive more than 12 a year.
these cars aren't corvettes that some guy only drives on the weekend. most are commuter mules
4dr's are worth a bit less than 3 but he's not too far off. if the engine has good compression and there are no major mechanical issues 2000-3700ish would be fair depending on what you find on the autocheck as well as the inspection. if that seems like a huge price gap, well, it is. all depends on what you find
it takes about 2 minutes to do a cluster swap in these cars. unless the docs are really solid assume every 90s honda has a cluster swap and inaccurate mileage. you have no idea how many low priced cars i've looked at around portland and had owners claim oh yea i never drove it etc. run the carfax and the mileage reads 198k then magically 108k a year later. a lot of sellers are stupid and have no idea how easy it is to catch mileage lies
everytime a car goes in for emissions mileage is recorded and picked up by autocheck and carfax
his english is also prime suspect. notice it says "the cluster reads..." not 'the car has" it amazes me how deceptive people always give tells even in ads. again i don't know the car and am not certain of it but that mileage was uncommon in 2006-2007. today it's REALLY uncommon unless it's an old lady car that's sat in the garage. most of those are likely to be automatic LS's
17 years at 12k miles per year is 204k miles which is just an average, a lot of people drive more than 12 a year.
these cars aren't corvettes that some guy only drives on the weekend. most are commuter mules
Thanks for the info alot!
I have another post to evaluate, concerns? Opinions?
http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/3562621883.html
I have another post to evaluate, concerns? Opinions?
http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/3562621883.html
http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/3562609510.html
http://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/cto/3557837937.html
http://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/cto/3537566292.html
heres three more. If you guys were to choose between all 5 which sounds better just from pics and information? I plan on test driving all. What should I look for? I know the standard oil and leaks and fluids, but anything else?
http://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/cto/3557837937.html
http://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/cto/3537566292.html
heres three more. If you guys were to choose between all 5 which sounds better just from pics and information? I plan on test driving all. What should I look for? I know the standard oil and leaks and fluids, but anything else?
Trending Topics
if you buy a turbo car pay myles at english racing in camas to do an inspection for you, they are right across the bridge and have extensive experience with turbo hondas.
if the engine is healthy and the turbo setup isn't some godspeed ebay junk it's a good buy. lot of if's there
www.englishracing.net
contact ^
http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/3562609510.html
http://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/cto/3557837937.html
http://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/cto/3537566292.html
heres three more. If you guys were to choose between all 5 which sounds better just from pics and information? I plan on test driving all. What should I look for? I know the standard oil and leaks and fluids, but anything else?
http://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/cto/3557837937.html
http://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/cto/3537566292.html
heres three more. If you guys were to choose between all 5 which sounds better just from pics and information? I plan on test driving all. What should I look for? I know the standard oil and leaks and fluids, but anything else?
if you had to buy something i would get an LS like this one that's probably worth 2000 if there is no frame damage and you find out why it has a salvage title.
buy a jdm itr engine full swap for 3200 and be in a car 5200 with a full jdm itr combo
or this one that's at least straight
http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/3555363838.html
honestly i don't see any really good deals on CL at the moment.
is one clean looking salvage wrx
http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/cto/3565079445.html
lot of times you can strike good deals on salvage titles since no one can get loans on them. like that wrx is a 4500-5000 car
Last edited by racebum; Jan 23, 2013 at 05:25 AM.
get the 4 door since you got kids right ? theres plenty of cheap cars out there that are really worth it , just gotta be patient and wait for the right deal lol ,
Personal preference would be the whit da teg, but the first black teg is clean looking, really nice. Then the red eg hatch is really clean and a decent price, but you dont know if they half ***'d the turbo setup.
most are modded with junk parts, slammed, cluster swapped and ran in the ground then posted at 4k obo or some other silly number
equally rare are modded cars done right. the days of HKS, Tial, apexi and quality parts have been replaced with tawain junk
i sold my old gsr within 48hrs of listing for 6200 to a guy who was waiting for a car with quality parts to pop up.
nice ones don't last long as they are not common
Definitely better then picking up something that has been, modded and who knows how hard it was driven.
I would look at the silver 95, [LS maybe] over the OPs 96 GS-R. 94
Hard to find an unmolested one here also, but they do show up, and as mentioned it is a waiting game but worth it in my opinion.
Definitely better then picking up something that has been, modded and who knows how hard it was driven.
I would look at the silver 95, [LS maybe] over the OPs 96 GS-R. 94
Definitely better then picking up something that has been, modded and who knows how hard it was driven.
I would look at the silver 95, [LS maybe] over the OPs 96 GS-R. 94
run an autocheck. mileage is probably inaccurate. very VERY rare to see a 96 integra reading that low of mileage. still, it could be a deal for the right price.
17 years at 12k miles per year is 204k miles which is just an average, a lot of people drive more than 12 a year.
17 years at 12k miles per year is 204k miles which is just an average, a lot of people drive more than 12 a year.
also to the OP.. dont get a boosted car for your first honda/acura.. if you've never had a boosted car and dont know much about cars, you'll really hate it, especially when it start to give you some problems.. you'll just never going to want another honda/acura again. i think the 4dr integra is pretty good.. it all comes down to what you need it for and how much you like it
i've been around these cars likely a lot longer than you have. since 2000 to be exact. the 100-130k mile cars started disappearing around 2006. unless it's a type r that someone cares for or the rare garaged s2000 most civics and integras are well over 200k regardless of what the cluster says.
the last 90s honda i bought was in 2007 and i looked at six, 4 of which had inaccurate mileage after running the carfax. even found one that somehow got title washed. showed a total on the east coast and there was a clean washington title. most people selling these cars are lying dirtbags,
like i said, i'm not positive on the 4dr but if the op posts the vin from it i can give you the history and reported mileage as well any any accidents
just too much scum floating in b & d series cars
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post




