Any opinions on full race turbo kit with t3/t04e .63 a/r?
I plan on 300-350whp on my stock b18c1 with ac. Is that possible without upgrading the block?

 

Full-Race turbo kits are second to none. They are the finest kits for a "B" series I have seen to date. One of the beautiful things about the kits is that they will work just fine at wastegate pressures making 250 to 300 wheel HP on a stock engine... and then transition up to 425 wheel HP on a Rod/Piston engine with a really conservative tune without changing a single part... just up the boost.

I believe you can get there in the 350 wheel HP mark with a reasonable margin of safety on a stock GSR block with that kit.

Enjoy.

 

I wouldn't run that much whp on a stock block

 

lol.. why not?

ive tuned numerous 400whp stock blocks with the right fuel.

 

stock b series will hold 450 plus

 

Sorry to thread jack got one question,u guys say b series can handle 400 so why cant a b20v handle thay.

 

I wouldn't risk it... tune has to be spot on and conservative when it comes to timing.,

If it's off or you get a bad tank of gas.... bye bye ring lands or you'll end up remodeling your block with a new window

 

b20's have mono sleeves. more **** to cracking then all other b series blocks.all though, i am going to push the limits of my b20z, if it cracks, it cracks. well see how it does on 18psi on a precision 67mm turbo.

 

B20 blocks have the thinnest sleeves of any b series which makes them even weaker than any other stock sleeve b series.., they are very prone to cracking

 

b20s do not have thin sleeves . they were made from a weaker matrial. thats why they are prone to crack, there r guys making 600hp on them.

 

I wasn't aware of any material differences in the sleeves of a B20 over a B16/B18 block, but even if there is, it is not the main issue for it's weaker status.

The greatest problem with the B20 block is it's casting/structure. Because of the larger diameter bore, accommodating a similar wall thickness sleeve as other "B" series blocks, along with a similar water jacket area... this leaves an awfully thin outer block casting, which incidentally, doesn't transition vertically directly into the saddle of the block. From the outside, you can see a "step" at the base of the sleeves where they meet the area on the block where it begins to widen out for the crankshaft counterweights to move within. This allows dramatically increased torsional forces to act on the block. These forces, created by increased HP/Torque levels, alter the shape and position of the cylinder sleeves themselves... and in the end, sleeve cracking is almost always the end result.

As stated above, it is challenging to make a stock blocked "B" series engine survive long-term in a daily driven vehicle with greater than 300-350 WHP. It certainly doesn't mean there aren't people out there now who can prove otherwise, but they are the exceptions, not the rule. Timing must be VERY conservative, and this is counter-productive in making big power without using an unusually large turbo... which would be a dyno queen, not a really streetable package.

Remember that short cuts do not lead to reliability... the key to long term engine survivability is to build on a strong foundation. The engine will be no stronger than it's weakest point... and big HP will ALWAYS find the weakest point.

Speed costs... how fast do you want to go ???

 

My shop tech drives his 430hp stock gsr crx all day everyday beats it up and it asks for more it does have head studs though, its on our turbo kit with a 6266 @ roughly 15-18 psi. Its not rocket science its all in the tune. I tuned this one and a few others similar to it they are all set around 16* of timing on the big end and the one I took to 550+ broke a sleeve not a piston. This shows me that piston rod motors are worthless I know there are some making 600+ but at that point what's the point buy some sleeves. Some people will tell you their opinions but in my opinion they are not speaking from real world experience lol I know I'm always on here raving about stock engines but they can do the job if you build your setup around them... Anyway fullrace has a quality kit but personally as a shop owner in direct competition with them and a hundred other places I think they are over priced.

 

i agree with pfi nayr one 100% he know his ****

 

Agreed