Cant post my own thread so im going to ask on here,, I have a 97 B18b1 swap in my 93 eg hatch, i was on the freeway when i spun not 1 but 2 damb bearings!!/: cyl 1&2!
Im thinking of going with acl race bearings cause of turbo going in after rebuild is finished (only 8psi is the plan)! pistons &rods are good just crank has little scratches on 1 and a bit more scratches on 2! Hopefully they can just resurface the journals so i dnt have to purchase another one.. I wanted to see if im going to be replacing the bearings, gaskets, ect. Would i still be able to use my stock thrust washer's that are on right now? Or do i NEED to replace those as well?

 

Why cant you make a new thread.

What caused the bearing to fail?
doesnt matter though but Im just curious.

your crank is gone, you will need all new bearings and gaskets, F acl race bearings, rock OEM ones.
When you find your new crank make sure its spec'd to your block correctly, as you might need a line hone, or some grinding.

 

^ Because he is a trail user.

 

Honestly I have no idea what caused them to fail, Happened at 55-60mph On the freeway when they just gave!/:
So No matter what, The crank is gone? I cant have it resurfaced then balanced? (all Journals of course)
But main question is about the thrust washer's! If i will still be able to use one that are on right now?

 

For the price a line hone is going to cost you, you might as well replace the bottom end.

What caused them to fail is probably oil starvation.

 

Ill have to look into where i could buy a new Maybe good used crank but wouldnt know where to start looking!
Ill look around tho, &i know for a fact it wasnt oil starvation!! I check the oil every 5 days just in case to make sure(rather be safe then sorry)
&before they spun, I had done the oil change 10w-40 With Oil stabilizer 4 DAYS BEFORE THEY SPUN!!!! which i found to be complete BS!! So definetly wasnt oil starvation!

 

Your oil level can be fine, but if your oil sending unit isn't working correctly, it can still starve the engine without setting off the dummy light.

The crank isn't the entire bottom end. If you replace the crank, you should ideally do a line hone on your block. For that price (and the down time involved), you might as well replace the entire bottom end. Block and crank bare minimum, though you don't necessarily need to replace the entire rotating assembly.

You'll be better off in all ways possible just buying a replacement paired block and crank.

 

Even if the dummy light turns on, it's normally too late.

 

Damb, well i was hoping to keep this block/internals/ect. If new crank is all that is needed i dnt mind purchasing one, But i might just stop by a machine shop to see if current crank is still hopefully resurfacable! If so it would help alot &save $$! Im on a major buget as i dnt have a job and the spun bearing came unexpectedly..

 

It's up to you. A machine shop is the only place that can tell you if it's usable or not.

Pull the crank.

 

I have moved these posts to a new thread.

Trial Users ARE able to create new threads in tech forums. Just click the New Topic button.

 

THIS^^^

 

AND THAT^^^

End of thread

 

Tear it down inspect for damage and make your choice to rebuild or replace which ever falls into your budget.
Not rocket science.