ChevelleSSLS6

So my civic, at 200,500 miles sounds like there's gravel in a blender. It's served well as the econonbeater Honda engineered it to be, and I'm wondering if it's possible to replace the rod and possibly crank bearings without pulling the engine- aka drop pan, remove caps (keeping them in order of course) and replacing bearings assuming the crank isn't trashed).

I know it's less than ideal; however, I don't have an engine hoist to do a proper rebuild ( which I'd probably do rings, hone cylinders, get crank turned if needed, new bearings and a timing belt for good luck if I had one, depending on extent of damage)

It's a bone stock d16y7 I think, no vtec or anything. It's a slushbox so it's not worth doing a swap into (rusty too here in the salt belt). It's not fast, never was never will be. Just reliable and cheap on fuel.

So I'm debating trying to get it going again for another couple years, parting it out, or hauling it out to get pressed into a cube.

Has anyone replaced rod bearings in one of these without pulling the engine before? Is it possible?
Matt

aavtec

yes it's possible I've done it before but the crank was damaged and the rod knock soon came back. I don't recommend it you don't need a engine hoist to drop the motor get to Jacks and pull the motor out from underneath the car I actually prefer to do it this way on most fwd.

B_Swapped93

do you have a floor jack or 2 plus some good stands/ramps ? yes it's possible not the most ideal as far as room underneath goes and all the but you can hone/re ring it with out having to pull the engine out just slide the pistons/rods up (pull the head). and if you can find another y7 cheap just swap it in you CAN use other methods to remove/put in the new engine it's just not "ideal" lol.

ChevelleSSLS6

if I found anouther y7 I think it'd be the way to go. I know there's some at the pik-a-part. Just need to find one that got rear ended or something along those lines.

Marvin1985

iTrader: (5)

You can lift that motor with 2 people.

jbpnoman

I have minimal upper body strength (honestly, I have pencil arms, I'm a damn accountant ) and I can lift a stripped motor out of a Honda by myself. They're light as ****. I once did a motor swap, in a day, in a parking lot, by myself with nothing but basic hand tools.

It's stupidly simple, just make sure you hone the cylinders and replace the bearings, seals, and gaskets while you're in there.

ChevelleSSLS6

next question is: is it easier to go out the top or though the bottom? I've done head gaskets on a GM 3400 (note: 3400s are either bombproof or total junk. I dunno why.), and swapped axles on my Jeep and stuff, so I have a fair amount of tools and a jack and stands. I have access to more stands if need be.

jbpnoman

If you're just replacing the main and rod bearings, you can do it by dropping the oil pan and windage tray, loosening your rod bolts, removing your mains, removing the rod bolts, and dropping the crank, and never have to touch the top end of the motor. Considering the mileage on the motor, though, it could definitely use for a complete rebuild. Also, unless you have the tools to properly mic your replacement bearings, any shop is going to laugh at you for asking them to mic your crank and journal surfaces with the motor still in the car.

B_Swapped93

top, they won't come out of the bottom or at lest I don't think they will(piston+rod). head has to come off if you're honing it. you really just need 10-19mm sockets short/deep and a few extensions. Honda's can be taken apart with pretty much a 10,12,14 and 17mm socket lol.

jbpnoman

The piston won't come out the bottom, but that doesn't stop you from dropping the crank through the bottom if you ONLY want to do the bearings.

jdmjunkieXL

I would pull the head off then tranny then have a buddy help u lift the block out

kyden

if it's making noise, there's probably scarring on the crank (9 times out of 10). just find a new motor.

sde780

If you ONLY want to replace the rod bearings it's very easy - you can drop the oil pan and spin the motor over slowly until you have each rod at a gap where you can put a socket in there.

So far the motors I've built have the rod bearing clearance checked out to .002" with standard bearings each time but that's not to say you'll be so lucky.

I wouldn't recommend replacing the main bearings with the motor still in the car though, you'll have to remove a bunch more components