Hello HT, I have a question, I recently did a GSR rear disk brakes conversion onto my 97 EK hatchback. Once I had installed everything I noticed that I wasn't getting enough brake fluid to the rear disks so I decided to go to the junkyard and get me a different prop valve, I ended up getting one off of a del sol (non ABS) that had rear disks. Will it fit/work with my EK hatch?
Any type of help would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance.

 

How are you verifying you aren't getting enough fluid to the rear?

 

To be honest, I don't really know for myself. This is just what a few friends of mine have told me, that I had to change the prop valve because the rear pads aernt even touching the rotors. It's a gsr rear disk conv.

 

You don't need to change the prop valve.

 

I didn't change my prop valve when I did my swap a week or two ago. I am using the stock 30/30 that was on my car with no problems. Did you rebuild the calipers before doing the swap? It is possible that the pistons are froze up inside the calipers and that is why they arent touching the rotors

 

You don't have to change the valve unless you want proper brake bias which I'm assuming you would to maximize braking. But like they mentioned something is probably jammed up. It's not too difficult to tear them down and clean/inspect the calipers.

 

Also forgot to mention its best to bleed in order from furthest from the MC to closet. So you would want to start at the passenger side rear, drivers side rear, passenger side front, and lastly drivers side front.

 

Same valve as the SI.

 

Is there a DIY on how to tear down the calipers and inspect them?

 

I was going to make one, but I haven't had time.

There isn't anything that I found.

Basically the piston threads out of the caliper. clean/Replace that inner seal. pull the seal off the piston and clean it up..

next put the new seal around the piston. put the piston in the caliper, and turn it once. Now start working the seal into the grove in the caliper. (if you have big hands this will **** you off.)

once you think you have in, thread the piston all the way down and make sure the seal is set on the piston correctly.

Now thread it all the way back out, just enough to pull it up and up down. This will show you if you have the seal in correctly.

Overall, it's easy, but it has the ability to really **** you off.

 

Horrible picture, but if you look at the caliper, you'll see the thing they thread onto.




The inner seal is along the outside of the bore. Small screw driver pop it out. Clean it up, and put the new one. Be careful to NOT twist the seal!!

And the bottom left of the picture is the inner seal i'm talking about.

 

This is very important.
Do the brakes feel mushy?
I have a GSR swap on my EG and it felt mushy till i bled the air out of the system.

 

If you bleed them that way they'll never bleed. The correct order on a Honda is:

RR, LF, LR, RF

 

This is the first for hearing of this order. I was always under the impression you start with the furthest from the MC and worked to the closest. I did this last week when I installed rear teg calipers and a 15/16 MC. My brakes are very firm and show no signs of air in the lines, I also used a one man bleeder pump.

 

^^^What exactly do you mean by "mushy" they feel fine to me that's why.

 

Air can be compressed which would cause added pedal travel and give the pedal a soft or "mushy" feel.

 

Honda set their brakes up in an X configuration, that's why. If you bust a brake line you will have brakes on a front wheel and a rear wheel that are diagonally opposite.

 

Great information^
So basically, to come to a conclusion, it's recommended to open up the rear calipers and clean them up real good and to also change the prop valve to a 99 civic si one?
I drive a 97 Civic CX...I understand that my prop valve has the same part number as the 99 Civic Si one, that doesn't necessarily mean that they're both the same thing, correct? Since my 96 Civic CX didn't come with rear disks and the 99 Civic Si did.

 

I will take some pictures after work so that you guys can see the abnormal wear that the rotor has and maybe that'll make it a bit easier

 

if they have the same part number, they are the same exact part.

 

The part number means they are the same. Note that only the Si, HX, CX and DX hatch and coupe share the same part number. All other trim levels use a different prop valve, as does the '98+ Integra RS which shares the same style prop valve.

The prop valve changes due to different brake bias required for different brake setups, but it doesn't really have anything to do with front or rear discs most of the time. (the only exception I can think of is the '92 - '93 Si hatch which had small CX style front brakes)

 

Just insure they aren't seized. Or if your **** like me, rebuild them. Pretty easy and cheep.


No. same part number= same part.

 

if your car was drum before did you change the MC to suit Disc ?
no one has asked yet and you didnt say if you did

 

The MC doesn't have anything to do with rear discs. It has to do with what front brakes were used.

Base civic front calipers -> 13/16 MC
EX/Si front calipers -> 7/8 MC
Integra front calipers -> 15/16 MC