how to check a leak in the charge pipe?
is there any way to check the charge pipe for leaks? Visually all the couplings and t bolts looks fine but i have a pressure drop between shifts.
Also i feel the ssqv have a bit of movement in the o ring base.
Also i feel the ssqv have a bit of movement in the o ring base.
What I did was buy 2 PVC end caps (3" for the intake side, 2.x" for the charge pipe) from the plumbing section of home depot. I also bought a shrader valve from a sports store (bought the cheapest bike inner tube and cut out the valve). I put the valve on one cap and a old mechanical boost gauge on the other cap.
You can also buy more professional versions of this...google "boost leak tester".
Then disconnect the charge pipe at the intake manifold and put the cap there and then put the other cap where you filter goes. Take care to cap any hoses you have on your intake pipe or charge pipe. Use an air compressor and try it out. You can also keep the charge pipes connected to the intake manifold. The intake valves will leak some air, but it can help point out leaky injectors seals. Your air compressor will just run out of air quicker if you do it this way, its alot of volume to keep at 10 PSI. But it helps show the difference between PSI and CFM
You can also buy more professional versions of this...google "boost leak tester".
Then disconnect the charge pipe at the intake manifold and put the cap there and then put the other cap where you filter goes. Take care to cap any hoses you have on your intake pipe or charge pipe. Use an air compressor and try it out. You can also keep the charge pipes connected to the intake manifold. The intake valves will leak some air, but it can help point out leaky injectors seals. Your air compressor will just run out of air quicker if you do it this way, its alot of volume to keep at 10 PSI. But it helps show the difference between PSI and CFM
If you are not running a BOV (or one that's too small), there could be stacking in the intake tract stalling out the compressor wheel. When the throttle plates close for shifting, the "mass in motion" of air slam against the throttle plates and kick back hard against the spinning compressor wheel. This would cause a major drop in boost, and create serious lag on every shift. There is typically a "chug-a-chug-a" noise on shifting associated with this stacking issue.
Mike
Mike
You could try my method and cover you inlet of the turbo and starve the engine of air.
If the motor stays on you have a leak. If it dies you don't.
Doing it this why will pronounce the leak and be able to spot it very quickly.
If the motor stays on you have a leak. If it dies you don't.
Doing it this why will pronounce the leak and be able to spot it very quickly.
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i cover the turbo inlet and the engine stay running and start breath by the bypass if i cover the bypass too the engine shut down. The bypass is a original hks ssqv.
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tim.simpson
Honda Prelude
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Sep 1, 2002 10:54 AM



