V-Bands are great.....BUT
They are a complete pain in the *** to get on! Real easy to get off, but getting the flanges to line up just right with no real support is tedious.
I've had to install my exhaust about 4 times now since I've had it and every time it takes me about 20-30 minutes to get everything lined up just right
Once I get the flanges seated I "pinch" the bands with my finger so they don't release and then screw on the nut.
I guess in my instance its a little tougher since I have a U shaped pipe to connect, where as a straight B-pipe might be a little easier.

Just venting....and warning!
I've had to install my exhaust about 4 times now since I've had it and every time it takes me about 20-30 minutes to get everything lined up just right

Once I get the flanges seated I "pinch" the bands with my finger so they don't release and then screw on the nut.
I guess in my instance its a little tougher since I have a U shaped pipe to connect, where as a straight B-pipe might be a little easier.

Just venting....and warning!
Who is Mr Robot?
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Most exhaust systems that don't have bolt based clamps require alignment
For example on our c6 z06 the over-axle section and the muffler section are slip fit with clamps and even though it on hangers (all these do is support weight, not align the system) we still have to adjust the over axle and muffler sections to get them lined up right.
We are putting in new pfadt long tubes and x pipes and they have v-bands at every connection. It takes some time and experience to do v-bands quickly but you'll get the hang of it
A trick to do is once you get the system lined up (mock it on the ground) is to dremel a slot on the flanges and then take a small piece of stainless steel and make a pin the will drop in the groove to keep them aligned but not interfere with the clamp
A lot of stuff like the hks v band turbos and manifolds will have an indexing pin on the face of the flange to hold everything in proper alignment, same way with turbos like holsets that have v-band housings and center sections, they will have a pin pressed in the chra on both sides and the housings will have a receiver hole for the pin to keep the housings in proper orientation.
That's something you could do as well and it's a little easier because the pin is captured, if you do the dremel slot method you'll have to keep up with the pins when you remove the system
Just mock the system up with proper alignment and make a mark with a sharpie across each joint, both flanges (this is your alignment reference mark) take one end and at the mark measure down the face of each flange to the center, drill a hole and lightly hammer a pin in one side then measure the opposite flanges face and drill a hole (slightly larger than the pin so it goes in easily)
Do this for every joint and you'll know when you install it that it's all in alignment. The other plus is the pin will hold each joint in place on its own, enough so that you can get the clamp and easily install ot
For example on our c6 z06 the over-axle section and the muffler section are slip fit with clamps and even though it on hangers (all these do is support weight, not align the system) we still have to adjust the over axle and muffler sections to get them lined up right.
We are putting in new pfadt long tubes and x pipes and they have v-bands at every connection. It takes some time and experience to do v-bands quickly but you'll get the hang of it
A trick to do is once you get the system lined up (mock it on the ground) is to dremel a slot on the flanges and then take a small piece of stainless steel and make a pin the will drop in the groove to keep them aligned but not interfere with the clamp
A lot of stuff like the hks v band turbos and manifolds will have an indexing pin on the face of the flange to hold everything in proper alignment, same way with turbos like holsets that have v-band housings and center sections, they will have a pin pressed in the chra on both sides and the housings will have a receiver hole for the pin to keep the housings in proper orientation.
That's something you could do as well and it's a little easier because the pin is captured, if you do the dremel slot method you'll have to keep up with the pins when you remove the system
Just mock the system up with proper alignment and make a mark with a sharpie across each joint, both flanges (this is your alignment reference mark) take one end and at the mark measure down the face of each flange to the center, drill a hole and lightly hammer a pin in one side then measure the opposite flanges face and drill a hole (slightly larger than the pin so it goes in easily)
Do this for every joint and you'll know when you install it that it's all in alignment. The other plus is the pin will hold each joint in place on its own, enough so that you can get the clamp and easily install ot
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